Engine cuts off while Driving Problem.

[very_452001]

I have a 2006 Skoda Octavia 1.6 petrol.

Couple of weeks ago this intermittent problem started to happen where sometimes the car takes longer to start and sometimes it starts normally which is intermittent.

While driving sometimes the car engine cuts off for a tiny brief second then engine resumes normal and I can continue driving normally for miles with no problem. When engine cuts off you get the usual lights on dashboard then they disappear when car is driving normally.

While driving sometimes the engine cuts off altogether in which I have to turn off the car fully then wait for a sec or two then start the car again in which it starts no problem and I can continue driving normally for miles without further problems.

My battery is just under a year old bought from tanya batteries. I believe I have no problems with my battery as the battery was never flat. Battery terminals look fine too no dirt/rust on them and also checked and found nothing loose on its terminals. The wires look fine from that battery and fusebox.

I scanned the car and it found nothing with the OBD diagnostics error checker scanner tool.

I just checked all the coloured fuses in the fuse box next to the battery and all fuses look ok.

From what I described what's the most likely cause?

Edited by very_452001 on Tuesday 2nd April 21:38

Edited by very_452001 on Tuesday 2nd April 22:06

[GreenV8S]

I'd guess either a wiring fault, or a critical sensor such as a crank or cam sensor. It would be worth seeing what fault codes the ECU has stored.

[Dave.]

"While driving...." could mean anything.

High rpm, low rpm?

In gear, out of gear?

Speeding up, slowing down?

Uphill, downhill?

Straight line, roundabout?

[DuraAce]

GreenV8S said:

It would be worth seeing what fault codes the ECU has stored.

This is where I would go. Using a decent tool like vcds, not a mickey mouse £20 generic scan tool.

In the unlikely event of no stored codes use the live data feature to monitor stuff like fuel pressure, cam and crank signals while driving to see what is failing when the car cuts out.

[very_452001]

GreenV8S said:

I'd guess either a wiring fault, or a critical sensor such as a crank or cam sensor. It would be worth seeing what fault codes the ECU has stored.

Hi its been 2 weeks since this problem started so during those 2 weeks woudnt the ecu store the code for crank or cam sensor resulting in a constant on orange engine management light on dashboard reflecting this?

[very_452001]

DuraAce said:

GreenV8S said:

It would be worth seeing what fault codes the ECU has stored.

This is where I would go. Using a decent tool like vcds, not a mickey mouse £20 generic scan tool.

In the unlikely event of no stored codes use the live data feature to monitor stuff like fuel pressure, cam and crank signals while driving to see what is failing when the car cuts out.

Ok which in depth scanner you recommend to buy or are they only available to commercial garages and if so which national garages have this tool?

Vcds is only for volkswagen group only?

[jas xjr]

Have you checked the fuel filter ?

[very_452001]

Ok recently been to kwik fit instead and have the results of the battery test:



I bought this battery 6 months ago:



https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/powerline/09...



Kwik fit results showing that the battery needs replacing because CCA measured 373 instead of the advertised figure. Voltage result is 12.36v.



I remember buying the battery brand new so how come it has come to this or what caused this or is it just simply a faulty or bad reviewed battery?

[Coilspring]

very_452001 said:

Ok recently been to kwik fit instead and have the results of the battery test:



I bought this battery 6 months ago:



https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/powerline/09...



Kwik fit results showing that the battery needs replacing because CCA measured 373 instead of the advertised figure. Voltage result is 12.36v.



I remember buying the battery brand new so how come it has come to this or what caused this or is it just simply a faulty or bad reviewed battery?

You may, or may not have a battery issue.

But it is a totally different problem to that as described. It needs code reading, or live data test drive.

Edited by Coilspring on Thursday 4th April 18:03

[Penelope Stopit]

Battery connections?????
A battery that isn't 100% as new will not cause the cutting out
Believe me

[Triggsy]

Hi,

I had a similar issue with my Audi A3 1.6 petrol - it may be the same engine. The fault was with the ignition pack - see the thread here;

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[very_452001]

Coilspring said:

You may, or may not have a battery issue.

But it is a totally different problem to that as described. It needs code reading, or live data test drive.

Edited by Coilspring on Thursday 4th April 18:03

You are confirming that low CCA figure such as 373 is not the issue here?

[Coilspring]

very_452001 said:

You are confirming that low CCA figure such as 373 is not the issue here?

Does the car start on this battery alone, or does it need additional help?

The issue you describe is a struggle to start easily, reliably, but that it does start. And that it cuts out, or struggles whilst running, but will restart. Neither of those are related to the cca of the battery.

The cca of the battery may well be low (what is its rated figure?), but if it starts the engine then it is currently sufficient to be ok for its purpose.

[very_452001]

Forgot to add to my 1st post to help with the diagnosing:

I don't feel any performance issues with the car.

I can drive with headlights on, radio, heater, electric windows etc. and don't notice battery going dead.

I also drive over speed humps but the vibration don't cause the issue.

I notice this intermittent problem during cold starts/cold engine. Once engine gets warmer I can drive for miles without further issues.

If it's not the battery then what is the most likely next cause?

Edited by very_452001 on Thursday 4th April 20:49

[Penelope Stopit]

Overheated fusebox terminal????
Loose connection but, bumps should cause a fail and they don't

[Coilspring]

very_452001 said:

Forgot to add to my 1st post to help with the diagnosing:

I don't feel any performance issues with the car.

I can drive with headlights on, radio, heater, electric windows etc. and don't notice battery going dead.

I also drive over speed humps but the vibration don't cause the issue.

I notice this intermittent problem during cold starts/cold engine. Once engine gets warmer I can drive for miles without further issues.

If it's not the battery then what is the most likely next cause?

Edited by very_452001 on Thursday 4th April 20:49

A road test with live data recording.

Or do you want a list of all the possibilities? Could run to a couple of pages though. Temperature gauge fitted, is it acting normally?

[very_452001]

The stock temperature gauge on the dashboard is behaving normal.

Will a average from the shop obd scanner have a live data recording option and what data values shall i look at from the live display?

Edited by very_452001 on Friday 5th April 11:08

[Penelope Stopit]

Live data sounds good but is often found to be useless

Example

Loss of an earth or supply cuts engine and all data rapidly changes, the loss of power was over a split second that the eye didn't see

[very_452001]

Hi another update response from Tanya Batteries:





"Many thanks for your message.

I'm afraid that as the test was done on a flat battery, the results are inconclusive. The battery at 12.36v is around 60% charged. At this voltage the battery has 373CCA, the battery has 67% of the ratted CCA. The battery also held fine under load. The test results show that the battery needs to be recharged.

If we can be of any further assistance, please don't hesitate to contact us"




I remember driving 4 miles to Kwik Fit on that day. So are Tanya right on their above statement when I arrived at Kwik Fit with a flat battery? If so does that mean whenever somebody drives to a place the battery always suppose to be 100% charged via the alternator while driving? Battery Voltage and CCA are correlated? If so what battery voltage gives 100% CCA output then?



If Tanya are correct on their statement then that assumes there's something wrong with the charging system i.e. Alternator if 4 miles driving is enough to charge battery to 100% correct?

If Kwik Fit test is valid backed by a test result document showing the charging system is ok then that means Tanya batteries are talking a load of Bull right? I can upload Kwik Fit test result document here.

I got a receipt from Kwik Fit stating that the charging and starter systems are ok tested by their equipment Bosch BAT 131.


So who's right?

[very_452001]

Penelope Stopit said:

Battery connections?????
A battery that isn't 100% as new will not cause the cutting out
Believe me

You sure?

According to this link it states otherwise:
https://desertoasisautorepair.com/my-car-stalls/

Please explain.