Air con repairs
Discussion
The air con on my Honda Accord doesn't work despite having it regassed.
Looks like it is the compressor, as it doesn't kick into life, even if I supply it with 12v straight from the battery.
I'm wondering if it's possible to replace just the pulley/clutch part with removing the compressor?
Or if I have to remove the compressor, am i better to replace it with a brand new cheap pattern part or a used original Denso?
Looks like it is the compressor, as it doesn't kick into life, even if I supply it with 12v straight from the battery.
I'm wondering if it's possible to replace just the pulley/clutch part with removing the compressor?
Or if I have to remove the compressor, am i better to replace it with a brand new cheap pattern part or a used original Denso?
Is it an electric compressor then, not one driven by a belt?
Or do you mean the clutch is not engaging?
I assume the re-gass has confirmed you have pressure and it's leak free,but could it be the pressure sensor? It was on my OH's Audi. I had to replace the pressure sensor before the A/C would come on as the system thought it had no pressure.
Infact, how did you get it re-gassed if it's not working?
Have you actually had an A/C guy check it over and diagnose it ?
Or do you mean the clutch is not engaging?
I assume the re-gass has confirmed you have pressure and it's leak free,but could it be the pressure sensor? It was on my OH's Audi. I had to replace the pressure sensor before the A/C would come on as the system thought it had no pressure.
Infact, how did you get it re-gassed if it's not working?
Have you actually had an A/C guy check it over and diagnose it ?
Piersman2 said:
Is it an electric compressor then, not one driven by a belt?
Or do you mean the clutch is not engaging?
I assume the re-gass has confirmed you have pressure and it's leak free,but could it be the pressure sensor? It was on my OH's Audi. I had to replace the pressure sensor before the A/C would come on as the system thought it had no pressure.
Infact, how did you get it re-gassed if it's not working?
Have you actually had an A/C guy check it over and diagnose it ?
No, it's belt driven compressor. The clutch doesn't engage.Or do you mean the clutch is not engaging?
I assume the re-gass has confirmed you have pressure and it's leak free,but could it be the pressure sensor? It was on my OH's Audi. I had to replace the pressure sensor before the A/C would come on as the system thought it had no pressure.
Infact, how did you get it re-gassed if it's not working?
Have you actually had an A/C guy check it over and diagnose it ?
The re-gas didn't show any leaks.
If it was the pressure sensor I shouldn't (as i understand it) get any voltage at the wire leading to the compressor clutch when the air con is switched on. I get 14v reading when air con is on and 0v when air con is off, but no action from the clutch. I also tried supplying the clutch with 12v direct from the battery which also had no effect on it engaging.
Not had an air con guy check it over as yet. Trying to fix without great expense. Only one I spoke to, as soon as I said the compressor wasn't engaging, said it would be £700 to replace it.
boyse7en said:
If it was the pressure sensor I shouldn't (as i understand it) get any voltage at the wire leading to the compressor clutch when the air con is switched on. I get 14v reading when air con is on and 0v when air con is off, but no action from the clutch. I also tried supplying the clutch with 12v direct from the battery which also had no effect on it engaging.
This speaks loads to me, thank you!Right, from this, I would assume your system has a charge, it is happy for the AC clutch to engage, and really narrows the fault down to the clutch itself as opposed to the compressor.
Can you spin the compressor itself? - is there a circuit through the clutch, or is that an open circuit? - can you manually (with engine off) manually push the clutch together, get some movement into it? If you are feeling brave / silly - if you press the clutch to engage it with the engine running, does it pull it in the last bit and hold it in?
Random note - once you start the car it takes a short time (+- 10 sec) before the AC engages in my car.
Peanut Gallery said:
If you are feeling brave / silly - if you press the clutch to engage it with the engine running, does it pull it in the last bit and hold it in?
I was going to mention that, but wasn't sure suggesting it was a good idea!Weakening of the clutch is a well known issue on Hondas - they extended the warranty in some cases.
On the Jazz we have that's affected, it's just very noisy. I saw relatively cheap after-market compressors but it was taken to a bunch of guys who spun off from one of the closed Honda dealers and they wouldn't hear of anything other than a genuine new compressor, which made it £1K+ job. It still works and the family member running the car isn't bothered about it, so it's been left. But the car jingles like a sleigh!
Peanut Gallery said:
This speaks loads to me, thank you!
Right, from this, I would assume your system has a charge, it is happy for the AC clutch to engage, and really narrows the fault down to the clutch itself as opposed to the compressor.
Can you spin the compressor itself? - is there a circuit through the clutch, or is that an open circuit? - can you manually (with engine off) manually push the clutch together, get some movement into it? If you are feeling brave / silly - if you press the clutch to engage it with the engine running, does it pull it in the last bit and hold it in?
Random note - once you start the car it takes a short time (+- 10 sec) before the AC engages in my car.
Don't know if i can spin the compressor. It didn't turn when I undid the nut on the end of the clutch, nor when i did it up. Should it be relatively easy to rotate (i.e., should i be able to turn it by hand)?Right, from this, I would assume your system has a charge, it is happy for the AC clutch to engage, and really narrows the fault down to the clutch itself as opposed to the compressor.
Can you spin the compressor itself? - is there a circuit through the clutch, or is that an open circuit? - can you manually (with engine off) manually push the clutch together, get some movement into it? If you are feeling brave / silly - if you press the clutch to engage it with the engine running, does it pull it in the last bit and hold it in?
Random note - once you start the car it takes a short time (+- 10 sec) before the AC engages in my car.
I removed the endplate of the clutch and gave it a dual inspection and a wipe over and apart from some fine black dust there was no obvious signs of wear or damage. When i reassembled it i tried pushing the clutch endplate in by hand but felt no movement.
Don't know if mine wait 10 secs or not - by the time I've started the car, walked round to the front and got the multimeter to check voltage at the feed to the compressor well over ten seconds have passed. I do know that I had the car idling for several minutes while I fiddled about with stuff though.
Is it a clutched compressor or a variable displacement compressor? If variable displacement (which is what a lot of modern cars have) and you're able to put 12v directly to the compressor without the a/c turning on, I would suggest that you just buy a replacement compressor and not bother with the clutch itself. The price difference is usually small and you don't want to deal with fixing it twice if the compressor fails next.
Also, if this car is running R1234y, be prepared to open your wallet.
Also, if this car is running R1234y, be prepared to open your wallet.
Peanut Gallery said:
Errr, that does not sound good! My Focus AC compressor can spin easily by hand, give it a flick and it spins for a little while before stopping. Looking at the first youtube clip it shows a Honda Accord compressor behaving the same way.
It that turning the whole compressor, or are you just spinning the pulley when the clutch is disengaged? That spins real easy.It's a 2007 Honda, so it's just the standard clutch-engagement type compressor.
I've now bought a secondhand compressor to see if I can swap the clutch over. It'll save me £100 or more if I don't have to have the gas removed so I can replace the whole compressor.
Hi I had problems with my 2010 civic air-con the clutch would disengage when the car got warm got to the stage where it gave up
This fix worked for me I took the clutch end plate off it was all groved and worn I refaced it with an electric belt file til it was flatish then adjusted the gap so there was enough gap to engage and disengage when needed it's been working for over 2 years since
I used a locking tool from an angle grinder to hold the clutch cover not a perfect fit but it worked
This fix worked for me I took the clutch end plate off it was all groved and worn I refaced it with an electric belt file til it was flatish then adjusted the gap so there was enough gap to engage and disengage when needed it's been working for over 2 years since
I used a locking tool from an angle grinder to hold the clutch cover not a perfect fit but it worked
boyse7en said:
Peanut Gallery said:
Errr, that does not sound good! My Focus AC compressor can spin easily by hand, give it a flick and it spins for a little while before stopping. Looking at the first youtube clip it shows a Honda Accord compressor behaving the same way.
It that turning the whole compressor, or are you just spinning the pulley when the clutch is disengaged? That spins real easy.It's a 2007 Honda, so it's just the standard clutch-engagement type compressor.
I've now bought a secondhand compressor to see if I can swap the clutch over. It'll save me £100 or more if I don't have to have the gas removed so I can replace the whole compressor.
As mentioned above, have you tested the original clutch for possibly being open circuit, if it is open circuit there is always the possibility of a faulty clutch wire
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