what machinery to remove seized and snapped pinch bolt

[arcon]

As title says really... what engineering machinery is best for removing a snapped pinch bolt..

Hss drill bits take hours as they are strengthened steel !!!!!

Have a hub assembly with snapped bolt as it was seized. Now need to remove it then replace with a nut and bolt

[227bhp]

Hydraulic press probably. That's what I used on the last one I did, it was only an M8 bolt, but so well corroded to the aluminium hub that 10 tons of pressure wouldn't shift it until i'd heated it up too.

[arcon]

It's the threaded part that's snapped

[Coilspring]

What is it on?

Soak some penetrating oil into the pin as much as possible. Leave it to soak.

Big hammer and decent punch ?

[arcon]

It's the threaded part. Already tried soaking and heating. It's corroded pretty badly in there. Needs machining really. But what sort of machine would be best on this sort of thing as I'm in the trade and would be worth investing in something

[Coilspring]

Can you not get the pin to turn at all? Impact gun maybe?

Threaded part is past the groove in the ball pin. So just beat it out and replace the wishbone/ball joint if needed ?

What car is it on?

Never seen any machine to do this specifically.

[GreenV8S]

Any chance of getting it to a drill press? Anything hand held is going to be a lot more challenging.

[arcon]

Coilspring said:

Can you not get the pin to turn at all? Impact gun maybe?

Threaded part is past the groove in the ball pin. So just beat it out and replace the wishbone/ball joint if needed ?

What car is it on?

Never seen any machine to do this specifically.

Pins out. Pin but snapped from threaded but. This was it after it snapped. I've now cut the center bit out so its now snug with the hub. Need to get the rest of the threaded bit out. Easy outs act not gonna work. Heated up and soaked. It's solid.

[arcon]

GreenV8S said:

Any chance of getting it to a drill press? Anything hand held is going to be a lot more challenging.

I've not got a drill press tbh. Just a drill. But drill bits don't seem to do much to it. Got a new set of hss bits too but it's gonna take all day at this rate for each one.

A machine shop should be able to make easy work of it I would have thought but I'm curious what they would use as I'm tempted to buy one

[227bhp]

I can't see you buying a milling machine really. Why didn't you post up all the info in the first place instead of wasting peoples time?

[imagineifyeswill]

I would weld on the end of that with a mig, get a good strong blob of weld on it a few good smacks with a hammer to crack the hold and then wind it out with a vice grips.

[arcon]

227bhp said:

I can't see you buying a milling machine really. Why didn't you post up all the info in the first place instead of wasting peoples time?

Jesus, put a tampon in you sensitive schmuck, I'm wasting nobodies time.

[arcon]

imagineifyeswill said:

I would weld on the end of that with a mig, get a good strong blob of weld on it a few good smacks with a hammer to crack the hold and then wind it out with a vice grips.

Tried mate. Welded a couple of nuts on but each time failed, as soon as I got the big bar out and gave it some real welly just snapped off. It's in there pretty solid

[S13_Alan]

I'm not a professional machinist (it's a hobby thing) but it's a routine thing for someone with the right stuff and knowledge.

Possibly starting more heat than you've tried and some left handed drill bits to start in case it came out that way, or weld something if there's access to do so, which you've tried.

If that fails, clamp it on the table of a mill and drill out, carbide drills or even an end mill if it came to it will deal with that bolt no worries... then run a tap through it.

Most difficult part in it all would be working out how to hold it properly on the mill and ensuring it's boring it out on centre and not destroying the original threads.

Similar idea, you can imagine what the difference might be - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=en5s0x3583s

[anonymous-user]

Bugger! That's one of those 'happenings' that makes you want to punch the 'designer' in the face The threaded bit of the bolt looks long enough to have grown its own 'thread' in the clearance half of the pinch. It's almost 'asking for it' for this to occur - sadly a 'clear through' bolt & nut would have added 3p to the cost...

I'd think you'll struggle to hold hand tools steady enough - even with a decent vice. Avoid using cheap High Speed ste drill bits from Screwfix and the like.

Probably not cost-effective to buy machinery just for this sort of task - seek out a good machine shop. Is the car too exotic to find a decent secondhand hub?

But I know how you feel - it's like you become honour-bound not to let it beat you. Best of luck with it

[E-bmw]

The only way with that is going to be to drill it.

Make sure you grind the end flat, centre pop it, get it in a vice to ensure it & you are stable, start at around 3 or 4 mm so it isn't too small to be proper fragile use good quality Cobalt drill bits & above all USE A SLOW SPEED and cutting compound.

[Boosted LS1]

For a start it needs a rap with a hammer to brake up the rusted connections..

[227bhp]

Nobhead said:

227bhp said:

I can't see you buying a milling machine really. Why didn't you post up all the info in the first place instead of wasting peoples time?

Jesus, put a tampon in you sensitive schmuck, I'm wasting nobodies time.

Well you wasted mine and this is the kind of thing I do for a living. You know what'll happen next time.

[steveo3002]

either try welding again , high heat , do a proper big slug on it , if it breaks the heat is helping so try again

or center punch it dead center and start drilling , move up in sizes , if you get it right the threads get left and pull out like a spring

[arcon]

227bhp said:

Well you wasted mine and this is the kind of thing I do for a living. You know what'll happen next time.

Ye absolutely nothing.