Noisy blower motor - Daft idea?
Discussion
I’ve got an ‘07 Focus with a noisy heater blower motor. The problem is it’s buried right behind the dash, so to actually get to it to replace the thing involves taking off most the dash, including disconnecting the clutch pedal. All that is beyond my YouTube-based skills, and as it’ll take hours to do, not really that economical either given it’s shed credentials.
So, if one were to spray some silicone/graphite lubricant down the air intake scuttle in the hope that some of it finds its way to the fan shaft/bushes, just how bad an idea would that be?
Am guessing the cabin filter would stop it entering the inside of the car (well, mostly...), but what other bits might it potentially balls up?
Stupid idea or just live with the noise?
So, if one were to spray some silicone/graphite lubricant down the air intake scuttle in the hope that some of it finds its way to the fan shaft/bushes, just how bad an idea would that be?
Am guessing the cabin filter would stop it entering the inside of the car (well, mostly...), but what other bits might it potentially balls up?
Stupid idea or just live with the noise?
Are you sure that's the only access? It's more usual for there to be access to replace the resister pack, which is usually buried inside the blower assembly. You may find there's a small hatch somewhere behind a glove box or above a footwell which gives access without all the hassle of removing the whole thing. That's also a reason not to spray oil indiscriminately - that resister may get hot enough to burn the oil off.
All cars are different and as I haven't done such a job on your car/model forgive the generic info below.
As others have intimated above that will do precisely zero.
You need better access to effectively direct your lubricant of choice (OOO ERR MISSUS!) and there normally is at least a modicum of access from the scuttle or inside depending on where the pollen filter is.
As others have intimated above that will do precisely zero.
You need better access to effectively direct your lubricant of choice (OOO ERR MISSUS!) and there normally is at least a modicum of access from the scuttle or inside depending on where the pollen filter is.
How many cans of spray have you got?
Will need to fill the heater box to be sure of filling the motor to be sure of it getting to the bearings to be sure that the motor is no longer working because the armatures commutator is surely covered in the spray you're not sure about
Short answer, don't do it
If it's a real shed and you don't care about how it looks, there will be possible shortcuts, rip things out and cut things out to gain access
Will need to fill the heater box to be sure of filling the motor to be sure of it getting to the bearings to be sure that the motor is no longer working because the armatures commutator is surely covered in the spray you're not sure about
Short answer, don't do it
If it's a real shed and you don't care about how it looks, there will be possible shortcuts, rip things out and cut things out to gain access
Sounds like a bad idea, which is what I suspected...
The access is indeed a right bugger. You can get to the back of it from behind the glovebox, but not the end to get the motor out. Am not sure if removing the vent flap actuator that’s attached to it will uncover any kind of hole in the casing that might give some other route in for some lube.
The access is indeed a right bugger. You can get to the back of it from behind the glovebox, but not the end to get the motor out. Am not sure if removing the vent flap actuator that’s attached to it will uncover any kind of hole in the casing that might give some other route in for some lube.
Even better point!
The removal procedure is this which looks a right old pain (that's the C-Max version, but think mine virtually the same).
Another part of me is wondering if removing flap actuator doesn't reveal anything, then I could perhaps just drill a hole through the housing and try and introduce something that way. The motor itself still has the copper coils and stuff exposed though, so on reflection all a bit risky, hence why I was thinking of graphite-based, but it may just end up shorting/messing something up given it's not sealed... This is the motor
The removal procedure is this which looks a right old pain (that's the C-Max version, but think mine virtually the same).
Another part of me is wondering if removing flap actuator doesn't reveal anything, then I could perhaps just drill a hole through the housing and try and introduce something that way. The motor itself still has the copper coils and stuff exposed though, so on reflection all a bit risky, hence why I was thinking of graphite-based, but it may just end up shorting/messing something up given it's not sealed... This is the motor
This may be a daft question, but is the fan still operating on each of it's 4 settings?
I have a 57 plate Focus 2 and thought the heater fan was noisy, then I realised that it was only operating on full speed.
Turned out that the resister had failed. Access wasn't great (remove glove box, drop fuse panel and a long stretch to the blower), but replacing the resistor was half an hour of a job.
I certainly wouldn't be replacing the fan motor unless it completely failed. It looks like a horrible job.
I have a 57 plate Focus 2 and thought the heater fan was noisy, then I realised that it was only operating on full speed.
Turned out that the resister had failed. Access wasn't great (remove glove box, drop fuse panel and a long stretch to the blower), but replacing the resistor was half an hour of a job.
I certainly wouldn't be replacing the fan motor unless it completely failed. It looks like a horrible job.
Have looked at the removal instructions
Even if you managed to drill a hole somewhere to get a spray tube through there is no chance of getting lubricant to the motors drive end bearing due to no vision
Even if you did manage to get lubricant to the motors drive end bearing (which does look impossible as the lubricant needs to run down the armature shaft into the bearing and the motor needs to be turned 90 degrees to the end on position to achieve this)
What about the commutator end bearing?
Like many here, have been in this situation lots of times
We all spend far too long at times looking for a quick get out and more often than not have wasted time that could have been spent getting on with the horrible job
Whatever it takes, get it out
Good luck
Keep well
Even if you managed to drill a hole somewhere to get a spray tube through there is no chance of getting lubricant to the motors drive end bearing due to no vision
Even if you did manage to get lubricant to the motors drive end bearing (which does look impossible as the lubricant needs to run down the armature shaft into the bearing and the motor needs to be turned 90 degrees to the end on position to achieve this)
What about the commutator end bearing?
Like many here, have been in this situation lots of times
We all spend far too long at times looking for a quick get out and more often than not have wasted time that could have been spent getting on with the horrible job
Whatever it takes, get it out
Good luck
Keep well
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