Castle nuts and thread lock

[Monty101]

Hi

I have just replaced my cars track rod ends, which has castle nuts and split pins. But the original split pins had corroded to nothing!

On the new castle nuts I have also added a squirt of blue thread lock as well as the new split pins

but now I’m wondering if this was the right thing to do. Or could this cause any future problems?

[B'stard Child]

Bit pointless TBH but apart from possibly making the nuts a little more difficult to remove next time and most people wouldn’t have the car still by that point (unless you’ve fitted CCC parts)

[Evoluzione]

Bit late now...

[Boosted LS1]

You're doomed and will spin off at the first corner I tell thee. Watch out for the dreaded wheel overtaking you down the road.

[Monty101]

B'stard Child said:

Bit pointless TBH but apart from possibly making the nuts a little more difficult to remove next time and most people wouldn’t have the car still by that point (unless you’ve fitted CCC parts)

Yes, probably is pointless, it was just the fact that the original split pins had rusted to nothing. and the castle nuts didn't seem very tight!

[Monty101]

Boosted LS1 said:

You're doomed and will spin off at the first corner I tell thee. Watch out for the dreaded wheel overtaking you down the road.

I wouldn't be surprised, everything else seems to overtake me

[B'stard Child]

Monty101 said:

B'stard Child said:

Bit pointless TBH but apart from possibly making the nuts a little more difficult to remove next time and most people wouldn’t have the car still by that point (unless you’ve fitted CCC parts)

Yes, probably is pointless, it was just the fact that the original split pins had rusted to nothing. and the castle nuts didn't seem very tight!

How tight did you think they need to be?

I don’t know what car we are talking about but I assume there was a taper fit and the load is through the taper underneath.

I come from the dark ages of motoring where a wheel bearing hub retaining nut was preloaded with a pair of pliers on the nut and then further movement was restricted by a split pin.

I replaced a wheel bearing on a modern (ish) car and the hub nut had to be torqued to 320 NM - that is F-Tight by any description

[Monty101]

B'stard Child said:

How tight did you think they need to be?

I don’t know what car we are talking about but I assume there was a taper fit and the load is through the taper underneath.

I come from the dark ages of motoring where a wheel bearing hub retaining nut was preloaded with a pair of pliers on the nut and then further movement was restricted by a split pin.

I replaced a wheel bearing on a modern (ish) car and the hub nut had to be torqued to 320 NM - that is F-Tight by any description

The car is a kia cee’d and the job turned into something of a nightmare (not helped by the heavy rain)

First the tie rod ball joint wouldn’t split, then after hours of trying I found my dad's fork splitter.

The castle nut tightened over the spilt pin hole, so I had to tighten it some more which I wasn’t keen on as it only had a feeble M10 nut.

Nothing seemed to go well, my anxiety has started to rise now I’m convinced that I’ve over tightened the nuts!

[B'stard Child]

Monty101 said:

Nothing seemed to go well, my anxiety has started to rise now I’m convinced that I’ve over tightened the nuts!

It’ll be fine