Best way to protect solid brake pipes
Discussion
Hi all
Just had my 20 year old 996 in for it's MoT with my local friendly garage. I know the tester well by now and he called me over part way through the test. He pointed out the near and off side front solid brake pipes, they are just started to corrode around the clamps and on the bends. The rears seem to still have some of the factory plastic coating on in the main, which is remarkable after 20 years.
The tester said: "they are not an advise this year, but you don't want them popping up on next years test, so here's your winter tinkering sorted. Just lightly sand them back and dress them up a bit".
So, is there something to buy to protect/ dress them with? Or something else? Sanding wise, i presume just some really fine grit paper and rub them back to metal?
Thanks in advance for any help
Just had my 20 year old 996 in for it's MoT with my local friendly garage. I know the tester well by now and he called me over part way through the test. He pointed out the near and off side front solid brake pipes, they are just started to corrode around the clamps and on the bends. The rears seem to still have some of the factory plastic coating on in the main, which is remarkable after 20 years.
The tester said: "they are not an advise this year, but you don't want them popping up on next years test, so here's your winter tinkering sorted. Just lightly sand them back and dress them up a bit".
So, is there something to buy to protect/ dress them with? Or something else? Sanding wise, i presume just some really fine grit paper and rub them back to metal?
Thanks in advance for any help
roboxm3 said:
The 996/986 brake pipes are a known weak point, so they'll go eventually anyway, just replace them with Kunifer for peace of mind...
Yeh I’m aware of that. I was hoping to wait for the over the engine/ box pipes until the box is dropped for the inevitable clutch at some point. At this time, I’ll have the brakes all drained down and can take out pipes and replace everywhere. If you took it to your " local friendly garage" and you " know the tester well by now and he called you over part way through the test " to give advice,
then take it. Anything else is taking the pee. Just get your tools out and get on with it.
I also have a friendly local garage and if they give me a nod and a wink I do the job, and they know that.
I trust them and they trust me.
Paul G
then take it. Anything else is taking the pee. Just get your tools out and get on with it.
I also have a friendly local garage and if they give me a nod and a wink I do the job, and they know that.
I trust them and they trust me.
Paul G
finishing touch said:
If you took it to your " local friendly garage" and you " know the tester well by now and he called you over part way through the test " to give advice,
then take it. Anything else is taking the pee. Just get your tools out and get on with it.
I also have a friendly local garage and if they give me a nod and a wink I do the job, and they know that.
I trust them and they trust me.
Paul G
Did you mis read my OP? This is exactly what I intend to do! The advice I was asking for was what to treat them with. The tester just said ‘dress them up’ which I assume is a mechanic terms I’m not familiar with!then take it. Anything else is taking the pee. Just get your tools out and get on with it.
I also have a friendly local garage and if they give me a nod and a wink I do the job, and they know that.
I trust them and they trust me.
Paul G
As @TimmyMallett mentioned, ACF-50 is a great option.
Transparent, neutralizes rust and protects against new rust better than any other product I am aware of.
They use it on aircraft carried I believe (although this may be marketing). Either way it works well.
The problem is you will have to reapply every year. Are you likely to do this? You may think you will, but you know, life happens.
If the answer is no and you want a one time fix then replacing with kunifer pipes is your best bet as they will outlive you. It does mean investing in some flaring tools (if you choose to do this make sure you know the difference between DIN and SAE) but they are so useful once you have them as the pipe costs pennies.
If you choose to paint them opaque (never done this so not 100% what MOT guy will say about it) I would use POR15. You can buy it in small tine, it paints over rust, it neutralizes rust, it's pretty flexible and a most importantly it goes on very thin meaning you can tell what's going on underneath if it does rust in the future.
POR15 do a clear top coat which you can spray direct to metal, but it wont neutralizes any rust so you will need to clean it up first and de-grease. This maybe best option if you want something that will last a few years, not worry the MOT guy and not require annual repeat.
Choices choices
Transparent, neutralizes rust and protects against new rust better than any other product I am aware of.
They use it on aircraft carried I believe (although this may be marketing). Either way it works well.
The problem is you will have to reapply every year. Are you likely to do this? You may think you will, but you know, life happens.
If the answer is no and you want a one time fix then replacing with kunifer pipes is your best bet as they will outlive you. It does mean investing in some flaring tools (if you choose to do this make sure you know the difference between DIN and SAE) but they are so useful once you have them as the pipe costs pennies.
If you choose to paint them opaque (never done this so not 100% what MOT guy will say about it) I would use POR15. You can buy it in small tine, it paints over rust, it neutralizes rust, it's pretty flexible and a most importantly it goes on very thin meaning you can tell what's going on underneath if it does rust in the future.
POR15 do a clear top coat which you can spray direct to metal, but it wont neutralizes any rust so you will need to clean it up first and de-grease. This maybe best option if you want something that will last a few years, not worry the MOT guy and not require annual repeat.
Choices choices
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