Discussion
I am replacing the drivers door glass in my classic.
It is glue in, ie I have to glue 2 large hand sized metal brackets to the bottom of the glass and it is these that attach to the up and down mechanism.
Although I don’t use it much, it obviously has to withstand vibration and the weather etc
Can Anyone recommend a bonding “glue” I can use?
Is the stuff they use to bond front windscreens into cars suitable?
It is glue in, ie I have to glue 2 large hand sized metal brackets to the bottom of the glass and it is these that attach to the up and down mechanism.
Although I don’t use it much, it obviously has to withstand vibration and the weather etc
Can Anyone recommend a bonding “glue” I can use?
Is the stuff they use to bond front windscreens into cars suitable?
You might try using VHB tape, like this :-
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/foam-tapes/1848206/...
Make sure both surfaces are very clean before applying and you should be OK
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/foam-tapes/1848206/...
Make sure both surfaces are very clean before applying and you should be OK
According to the video WCCC (who are the go to experts on all things Cougar) on fitting there is no rubber strip, it just the metal bracket and glass. They suggest not removing the old adhesive if it’s good, just add more. It seems they allowed a certain thickness to absorb any vibrations etc
Hi, sorry to butt in again 
I used to work at a place that made passenger information displays for bus and train stations.
Many of these units had glass screens bonded to steel or aluminium frames.
Mostly we used VHB tape to bond the glass in.The bigger the screen, the wider the tape.
But, in some cases where the glass was inset into a frame, we would use this..
https://www.geocel.co.uk/products/geocel-theworks-...
It's good stuff, but be warned, it gets everywhere !
Use disposable gloves and be very careful what you touch.
Takes about 24 hours to cure and can be trimmed with a sharp knife when dry.
I have no connection to either of the products I've linked to, just stuff I used to use at work.
For bonding glass to metal, both work well.
stuartmmcfc...
I had a look at the video you mentioned, is there any way you can open up the slots in the brackets
then wrap a wide piece of tape round the bottom of the glass, then slide the glass into position and nip/squeeze the metal to grip the tape?
If not, just use the gooey stuff
nsa...
I believe the stuff they use on rear view mirrors is a thin VHB tape. That's what I used on my Mini !
I used to work at a place that made passenger information displays for bus and train stations.
Many of these units had glass screens bonded to steel or aluminium frames.
Mostly we used VHB tape to bond the glass in.The bigger the screen, the wider the tape.
But, in some cases where the glass was inset into a frame, we would use this..
https://www.geocel.co.uk/products/geocel-theworks-...
It's good stuff, but be warned, it gets everywhere !
Use disposable gloves and be very careful what you touch.
Takes about 24 hours to cure and can be trimmed with a sharp knife when dry.
I have no connection to either of the products I've linked to, just stuff I used to use at work.
For bonding glass to metal, both work well.
stuartmmcfc...
I had a look at the video you mentioned, is there any way you can open up the slots in the brackets
then wrap a wide piece of tape round the bottom of the glass, then slide the glass into position and nip/squeeze the metal to grip the tape?
If not, just use the gooey stuff
nsa...
I believe the stuff they use on rear view mirrors is a thin VHB tape. That's what I used on my Mini !
Thanks for the advice everyone, it’s been very much appreciated.
Because of the doubt I’ve got over available adhesives with the danger of the glass creeping if the adhesive is too viscous and the glass coming loose if the adhesive is to solid I’ve decided to bite the bullet and ordered some of the 3m stuff from , what I think, is an overseas supplier.
It’s going to be next year before it gets here and is 3 times the price than adhesives mentioned previously BUT I don’t want to have to do it again and if it doesn’t work I can only blame myself not the materials I used
Because of the doubt I’ve got over available adhesives with the danger of the glass creeping if the adhesive is too viscous and the glass coming loose if the adhesive is to solid I’ve decided to bite the bullet and ordered some of the 3m stuff from , what I think, is an overseas supplier.
It’s going to be next year before it gets here and is 3 times the price than adhesives mentioned previously BUT I don’t want to have to do it again and if it doesn’t work I can only blame myself not the materials I used
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