Stripped expensive hex bolt - help!
Discussion
So my now year long project to restore a neglected 996 Turbo to full health has been a series of skirmishes and battles, but I think I'm starting to win the war!
Latest conflict is a stuck rear wing bolt that has a pin through it to seat yhe rear wing. They're not available separately from the (£££) spoiler from Porsche and an aftermarket manufacturer in the States wants $150 plus import taxes for a pair!
There are two in the spoiler blade and they're threadlocked in.
The hex key is 14mm and it took a huge amount of force with an impact gum to get the first out, but it did come out.
I've now stripped the second trying to get it out and it's stuck after rotating a few times and shifting it about 1mm out of its housing.
I have screw extractors, but don't want to destroy the very expensive bolt. I've tried lubrication with no joy.
Can anyone suggest a way to try yo get it out?
Pics starting with removed good bolt.
Latest conflict is a stuck rear wing bolt that has a pin through it to seat yhe rear wing. They're not available separately from the (£££) spoiler from Porsche and an aftermarket manufacturer in the States wants $150 plus import taxes for a pair!
There are two in the spoiler blade and they're threadlocked in.
The hex key is 14mm and it took a huge amount of force with an impact gum to get the first out, but it did come out.
I've now stripped the second trying to get it out and it's stuck after rotating a few times and shifting it about 1mm out of its housing.
I have screw extractors, but don't want to destroy the very expensive bolt. I've tried lubrication with no joy.
Can anyone suggest a way to try yo get it out?
Pics starting with removed good bolt.
youngsyr said:
threadlocked in
Heat. Breaks down threadlock.Beyond that, the multitude of methods that are well-known. Penetrating oil, work the bolt to and fro, Torx bit hammered into the stripped hex, etc., etc., etc.
Avoid the stud extractors if at all possible. Break one of those off and you're in a world of pain.
shtu said:
Heat. Breaks down threadlock.
Beyond that, the multitude of methods that are well-known. Penetrating oil, work the bolt to and fro, Torx bit hammered into the stripped hex, etc., etc., etc.
Avoid the stud extractors if at all possible. Break one of those off and you're in a world of pain.
Thanks, I'll get the blow torch out. I really don't want to damage the oem wing though- it's a simple thing, but it costs over a grand even second hand!Beyond that, the multitude of methods that are well-known. Penetrating oil, work the bolt to and fro, Torx bit hammered into the stripped hex, etc., etc., etc.
Avoid the stud extractors if at all possible. Break one of those off and you're in a world of pain.
First thing might be to hawk the one you got out around local engineering companies, asking if they / someone proficient in turning can make you half a dozen in stainless, because I think you might whittle those, or a sufficiently-close approximation, out of a standard cap-head machine screw.
Now - I'm no mechE - but that's an interesting part - the head is thin, yes, and the hex v v shallow - beyond which there's a small bore inside the threaded portion drilled to see the pin through it - and obvs the whole cross-drilled to allow the pin insertion.
Yet there's really no magic here. That the hex doesn't look any deeper than the depth of the head flange, and this is good: I reckon you might start take an M-whatever-the-thread-is socket-head cap screw, and with a bit of creativity on a lathe - turn the head down to such a flat button, or maybe a mm or so thicker to allow more purchase!; then bore and crossdrill to match. Turn the threaded end down to suit the profile pictured. worth a few beers in goodwill to someone willing to try?
Buy a few candidates from namrick, see if they fit the threaded hole you have. Go from there. HTH.
Now - I'm no mechE - but that's an interesting part - the head is thin, yes, and the hex v v shallow - beyond which there's a small bore inside the threaded portion drilled to see the pin through it - and obvs the whole cross-drilled to allow the pin insertion.
Yet there's really no magic here. That the hex doesn't look any deeper than the depth of the head flange, and this is good: I reckon you might start take an M-whatever-the-thread-is socket-head cap screw, and with a bit of creativity on a lathe - turn the head down to such a flat button, or maybe a mm or so thicker to allow more purchase!; then bore and crossdrill to match. Turn the threaded end down to suit the profile pictured. worth a few beers in goodwill to someone willing to try?
Buy a few candidates from namrick, see if they fit the threaded hole you have. Go from there. HTH.
Edited by Huff on Wednesday 28th April 20:41
barryrs said:
It looks like a capless crank bolt but if you can find the right size you would need to install the pin yourself.
As the stuck one is pretty knackered could you use some long nose pliers and grip the pin to rotate it?
Interesting, thanks. I've stripped the hex thread with an impact gun trying to get it out. Don't think pliers will budge it.As the stuck one is pretty knackered could you use some long nose pliers and grip the pin to rotate it?
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