Advice for 1st timer changing brake pads & disks
Discussion
Hi All,
I have an 04 plate Mini Cooper and am pretty new to doing my own car work. So far i've replaced a door and done an oil & filter change.
I've invested in good tools and am safe when jacking up the car, putting it on stands etc.
The job i'll be doing this week is to change the brake pads on the front wheels and pads & disks on the rear wheels, so far i've managed to do the front left pads, still got the rest to do.
My question is: does anyone who knows what they're talking about have any advice/warnings for someone starting out and doing this job?
I've read the haynes manual for pads and watched some videos of people doing it. I pumped the brakes after doing the front right and they went stiff so I assume that means i've installed them properly?
Any general advice and advice on brakes/pads would be welcome - genuinely am brand new to this but want to keep going with it because it's good fun.
Cheers
Seb
I have an 04 plate Mini Cooper and am pretty new to doing my own car work. So far i've replaced a door and done an oil & filter change.
I've invested in good tools and am safe when jacking up the car, putting it on stands etc.
The job i'll be doing this week is to change the brake pads on the front wheels and pads & disks on the rear wheels, so far i've managed to do the front left pads, still got the rest to do.
My question is: does anyone who knows what they're talking about have any advice/warnings for someone starting out and doing this job?
I've read the haynes manual for pads and watched some videos of people doing it. I pumped the brakes after doing the front right and they went stiff so I assume that means i've installed them properly?
Any general advice and advice on brakes/pads would be welcome - genuinely am brand new to this but want to keep going with it because it's good fun.
Cheers
Seb
They're hard to really screw up - If you do, you'd know about it.
Chrisfix videos are non-vehicle specific, but they cover all the groundwork and are very well presented - if you've already done the front left corner, you should have most of the idea
Rear pads can be a bit more tricky as you may need a windback tool / a specific method, or on newer cars with EPB's, a scan tool capable of rewinding the motor.
Chrisfix videos are non-vehicle specific, but they cover all the groundwork and are very well presented - if you've already done the front left corner, you should have most of the idea
Rear pads can be a bit more tricky as you may need a windback tool / a specific method, or on newer cars with EPB's, a scan tool capable of rewinding the motor.
Sg113 said:
Hi All,
I have an 04 plate Mini Cooper and am pretty new to doing my own car work. So far i've replaced a door and done an oil & filter change.
I've invested in good tools and am safe when jacking up the car, putting it on stands etc.
The job i'll be doing this week is to change the brake pads on the front wheels and pads & disks on the rear wheels, so far i've managed to do the front left pads, still got the rest to do.
My question is: does anyone who knows what they're talking about have any advice/warnings for someone starting out and doing this job?
I've read the haynes manual for pads and watched some videos of people doing it. I pumped the brakes after doing the front right and they went stiff so I assume that means i've installed them properly?
Any general advice and advice on brakes/pads would be welcome - genuinely am brand new to this but want to keep going with it because it's good fun.
Cheers
Seb
When I had my 02 Cooper S I found this site really good and went through all the details for that particular car https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/MIN...I have an 04 plate Mini Cooper and am pretty new to doing my own car work. So far i've replaced a door and done an oil & filter change.
I've invested in good tools and am safe when jacking up the car, putting it on stands etc.
The job i'll be doing this week is to change the brake pads on the front wheels and pads & disks on the rear wheels, so far i've managed to do the front left pads, still got the rest to do.
My question is: does anyone who knows what they're talking about have any advice/warnings for someone starting out and doing this job?
I've read the haynes manual for pads and watched some videos of people doing it. I pumped the brakes after doing the front right and they went stiff so I assume that means i've installed them properly?
Any general advice and advice on brakes/pads would be welcome - genuinely am brand new to this but want to keep going with it because it's good fun.
Cheers
Seb
Might be worth checking how to bleed the brakes correctly to ensure they work. I know on my old Volvo alot of the guys on the forum recommended a kit like this to bleed them correctly.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/gunsons-eezibleed-k...
i learnt a few things the first time is did it
don't get brake fluid on the rotors or the pads
dont damage the brake hose (see above)
dont crush the brake line
dont pop the o ring on the pistons over extending them without pads in (see 1 again)
dont over tighten and sheer the caliper bolts
dont put a pad in the wrong way round or you get a funky noise
dont put copper grease on the rotor surface
dont forget to bleed them afterwards or you may end up in a ditch infront of your mates house
don't get brake fluid on the rotors or the pads
dont damage the brake hose (see above)
dont crush the brake line
dont pop the o ring on the pistons over extending them without pads in (see 1 again)
dont over tighten and sheer the caliper bolts
dont put a pad in the wrong way round or you get a funky noise
dont put copper grease on the rotor surface
dont forget to bleed them afterwards or you may end up in a ditch infront of your mates house
Dave Hedgehog said:
i learnt a few things the first time is did it
don't get brake fluid on the rotors or the pads
dont damage the brake hose (see above)
dont crush the brake line
dont pop the o ring on the pistons over extending them without pads in (see 1 again)
dont over tighten and sheer the caliper bolts
dont put a pad in the wrong way round or you get a funky noise
dont put copper grease on the rotor surface
dont forget to bleed them afterwards or you may end up in a ditch infront of your mates house
But apart from those things it went well don't get brake fluid on the rotors or the pads
dont damage the brake hose (see above)
dont crush the brake line
dont pop the o ring on the pistons over extending them without pads in (see 1 again)
dont over tighten and sheer the caliper bolts
dont put a pad in the wrong way round or you get a funky noise
dont put copper grease on the rotor surface
dont forget to bleed them afterwards or you may end up in a ditch infront of your mates house
Don't forget to bleed the brakes? After a disc and pad change? Not sure I'm with you on that one.
If you're not sure, don't touch it... yes it's relatively straightforward but like many straightforward jobs, you can become unstuck quite easily.
Enlist an experienced associate to supervise whilst you go, they needn't get involved but will be on hand to advise, reassure or point out you've left the caliper carrier bolts on the pavement.
All it takes is a snapped bolt and you're up the creek minus the paddle...
If you're not sure, don't touch it... yes it's relatively straightforward but like many straightforward jobs, you can become unstuck quite easily.
Enlist an experienced associate to supervise whilst you go, they needn't get involved but will be on hand to advise, reassure or point out you've left the caliper carrier bolts on the pavement.
All it takes is a snapped bolt and you're up the creek minus the paddle...
Don't forget to bleed the brakes? After a disc and pad change? Not sure I'm with you on that one.
If you're not sure, don't touch it... yes it's relatively straightforward but like many straightforward jobs, you can become unstuck quite easily.
Enlist an experienced associate to supervise whilst you go, they needn't get involved but will be on hand to advise, reassure or point out you've left the caliper carrier bolts on the pavement.
All it takes is a snapped bolt and you're up the creek minus the paddle...
If you're not sure, don't touch it... yes it's relatively straightforward but like many straightforward jobs, you can become unstuck quite easily.
Enlist an experienced associate to supervise whilst you go, they needn't get involved but will be on hand to advise, reassure or point out you've left the caliper carrier bolts on the pavement.
All it takes is a snapped bolt and you're up the creek minus the paddle...
Sg113 said:
The job i'll be doing this week is to change the brake pads on the front wheels and pads & disks on the rear wheels, so far i've managed to do the front left pads, still got the rest to do.
My question is: does anyone who knows what they're talking about have any advice/warnings for someone starting out and doing this job?
If you're doing it yourself, you need to do it properly. There is far more to servicing brakes than replacing consumable components.My question is: does anyone who knows what they're talking about have any advice/warnings for someone starting out and doing this job?
Haltamer said:
Rear pads can be a bit more tricky as you may need a windback tool / a specific method, or on newer cars with EPB's, a scan tool capable of rewinding the motor.
Yep - from memory, the rear calipers on the Mini's need a wind back tool.....although I think I might have improvised using a pair of long nose pliers? Best read that guide that was posted to be sure...MattyD803 said:
Haltamer said:
Rear pads can be a bit more tricky as you may need a windback tool / a specific method, or on newer cars with EPB's, a scan tool capable of rewinding the motor.
Yep - from memory, the rear calipers on the Mini's need a wind back tool.....although I think I might have improvised using a pair of long nose pliers? Best read that guide that was posted to be sure...MattyD803 said:
Haltamer said:
Rear pads can be a bit more tricky as you may need a windback tool / a specific method, or on newer cars with EPB's, a scan tool capable of rewinding the motor.
Yep - from memory, the rear calipers on the Mini's need a wind back tool.....although I think I might have improvised using a pair of long nose pliers? Best read that guide that was posted to be sure...Challo said:
Sg113 said:
Hi All,
I have an 04 plate Mini Cooper and am pretty new to doing my own car work. So far i've replaced a door and done an oil & filter change.
I've invested in good tools and am safe when jacking up the car, putting it on stands etc.
The job i'll be doing this week is to change the brake pads on the front wheels and pads & disks on the rear wheels, so far i've managed to do the front left pads, still got the rest to do.
My question is: does anyone who knows what they're talking about have any advice/warnings for someone starting out and doing this job?
I've read the haynes manual for pads and watched some videos of people doing it. I pumped the brakes after doing the front right and they went stiff so I assume that means i've installed them properly?
Any general advice and advice on brakes/pads would be welcome - genuinely am brand new to this but want to keep going with it because it's good fun.
Cheers
Seb
When I had my 02 Cooper S I found this site really good and went through all the details for that particular car https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/MIN...I have an 04 plate Mini Cooper and am pretty new to doing my own car work. So far i've replaced a door and done an oil & filter change.
I've invested in good tools and am safe when jacking up the car, putting it on stands etc.
The job i'll be doing this week is to change the brake pads on the front wheels and pads & disks on the rear wheels, so far i've managed to do the front left pads, still got the rest to do.
My question is: does anyone who knows what they're talking about have any advice/warnings for someone starting out and doing this job?
I've read the haynes manual for pads and watched some videos of people doing it. I pumped the brakes after doing the front right and they went stiff so I assume that means i've installed them properly?
Any general advice and advice on brakes/pads would be welcome - genuinely am brand new to this but want to keep going with it because it's good fun.
Cheers
Seb
Might be worth checking how to bleed the brakes correctly to ensure they work. I know on my old Volvo alot of the guys on the forum recommended a kit like this to bleed them correctly.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/gunsons-eezibleed-k...
Dave Hedgehog said:
i learnt a few things the first time is did it
don't get brake fluid on the rotors or the pads
dont damage the brake hose (see above)
dont crush the brake line
dont pop the o ring on the pistons over extending them without pads in (see 1 again)
dont over tighten and sheer the caliper bolts
dont put a pad in the wrong way round or you get a funky noise
dont put copper grease on the rotor surface
dont forget to bleed them afterwards or you may end up in a ditch infront of your mates house
Textbook that! don't get brake fluid on the rotors or the pads
dont damage the brake hose (see above)
dont crush the brake line
dont pop the o ring on the pistons over extending them without pads in (see 1 again)
dont over tighten and sheer the caliper bolts
dont put a pad in the wrong way round or you get a funky noise
dont put copper grease on the rotor surface
dont forget to bleed them afterwards or you may end up in a ditch infront of your mates house
Remove the reservoir cap for the brake fluid, you my need to drain some fluid out because as you push the pistons back the fluid rises.
Why aren't you changing the front discs ? Have you checked for the minimum thickness ? Is there a lip, are they rusty on the rear face ? We see a lot of people put new pads on crap discs.
Also have i read it right, you have only changed the NSF pads ? I presume you are not using the car at the minute.
With Minis have you got the warning wires and check to see if you can get the rear calipers locally as one is usually seized.
Take your time and don't strip everything down in one go so if you do get stuck you have something to check and reference to
Why aren't you changing the front discs ? Have you checked for the minimum thickness ? Is there a lip, are they rusty on the rear face ? We see a lot of people put new pads on crap discs.
Also have i read it right, you have only changed the NSF pads ? I presume you are not using the car at the minute.
With Minis have you got the warning wires and check to see if you can get the rear calipers locally as one is usually seized.
Take your time and don't strip everything down in one go so if you do get stuck you have something to check and reference to
I would add - "Every twenty minute job is one broken bolt away from being a 3 day ordeal"
As a DIY beginner, plan jobs like this around not needing the car for a few days.
Nothing worse than being on your back on the pissing wet concrete, in the dark, late on a Sunday night trying to get the car ready for work the next day (ask me how I know...).
Worth thinking ahead just in case the worst does happen and you have to get a garage to come out, is the car parked somewhere that it could be recovered onto a truck?
As a DIY beginner, plan jobs like this around not needing the car for a few days.
Nothing worse than being on your back on the pissing wet concrete, in the dark, late on a Sunday night trying to get the car ready for work the next day (ask me how I know...).
Worth thinking ahead just in case the worst does happen and you have to get a garage to come out, is the car parked somewhere that it could be recovered onto a truck?
stevemcs said:
Remove the reservoir cap for the brake fluid, you my need to drain some fluid out because as you push the pistons back the fluid rises.
Why aren't you changing the front discs ? Have you checked for the minimum thickness ? Is there a lip, are they rusty on the rear face ? We see a lot of people put new pads on crap discs.
Also have i read it right, you have only changed the NSF pads ? I presume you are not using the car at the minute.
With Minis have you got the warning wires and check to see if you can get the rear calipers locally as one is usually seized.
Take your time and don't strip everything down in one go so if you do get stuck you have something to check and reference to
Cheers for the advice, Why aren't you changing the front discs ? Have you checked for the minimum thickness ? Is there a lip, are they rusty on the rear face ? We see a lot of people put new pads on crap discs.
Also have i read it right, you have only changed the NSF pads ? I presume you are not using the car at the minute.
With Minis have you got the warning wires and check to see if you can get the rear calipers locally as one is usually seized.
Take your time and don't strip everything down in one go so if you do get stuck you have something to check and reference to
Got the bit about the reservoir cap, front disks are within the minimum thickness and they aren't rusty. Right now I am not driving it so yes you read it right I only change one pair of pads (took longer than I anticipated so I had to leave it for tomorrow),
I've bought the warning wires - actually didn't realise you only need 1 for the front and 1 for the back so now have spares, what do you mean the rear calliper is seized? do you mean it wont press up against the pad?
thanks,
seb
R56Cooper said:
I would add - "Every twenty minute job is one broken bolt away from being a 3 day ordeal"
As a DIY beginner, plan jobs like this around not needing the car for a few days.
Nothing worse than being on your back on the pissing wet concrete, in the dark, late on a Sunday night trying to get the car ready for work the next day (ask me how I know...).
Worth thinking ahead just in case the worst does happen and you have to get a garage to come out, is the car parked somewhere that it could be recovered onto a truck?
Good advice - it's parked somewhere a garage can come and get it, just so i've got an idea what do I do if I break a bolt? is there anything I can buy before hand to help me get it out? I have a decent 18v Makita Drill and an Impact wrench as well all the wrenches and sockets I think I needAs a DIY beginner, plan jobs like this around not needing the car for a few days.
Nothing worse than being on your back on the pissing wet concrete, in the dark, late on a Sunday night trying to get the car ready for work the next day (ask me how I know...).
Worth thinking ahead just in case the worst does happen and you have to get a garage to come out, is the car parked somewhere that it could be recovered onto a truck?
Also do you have any tips on how to not snap a bolt - i'm careful with how much pressure I put but I imagine when it snaps you're just shafted?
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