How to work safely under my car?
Discussion
I want to do an engine oil change and a manual gearbox oil change on my car, Mercedes W169. Last time I did the oil change was with the aid of a part time mechanic with a ramp but it's such an easy job id rather have a go at it myself
I was thinking about just using my hydraulic lift, axle stands and then making sure it's all chocked properly so it can't fall on me like I've done with all my previous cars.
Can I use axle stands with my cars weird rear parabolic axle setup at the rear? There is no axle connecting the rear wheels so I'm not sure where is the safest or if there is a safe space to use axle stands at the rear?
I know pickup trucks use a similar setup, just with leaf springs instead and they are often worked at home shade tree mechanic style so there must be a safe way?
I was thinking about just using my hydraulic lift, axle stands and then making sure it's all chocked properly so it can't fall on me like I've done with all my previous cars.
Can I use axle stands with my cars weird rear parabolic axle setup at the rear? There is no axle connecting the rear wheels so I'm not sure where is the safest or if there is a safe space to use axle stands at the rear?
I know pickup trucks use a similar setup, just with leaf springs instead and they are often worked at home shade tree mechanic style so there must be a safe way?
Yeah, axle stands under the spring pans or somewhere along that big cross member by the looks. Failing that the suspension pick up points can work - any reinforced place on the chassis which takes the weight of the car. I usually use wood blocks or thick bits of plank between the stand and the car to give it some protection. Give it a good hard shake when it's on the stands to make sure it's not going to topple off.
Keep the jack under there as well if there's room, stack the wheels underneath the car is another additional bit of safety just in case.
Keep the jack under there as well if there's room, stack the wheels underneath the car is another additional bit of safety just in case.
darreni said:
You only need jack the front on the 169 to do the oil & gearbox fluids. Chock the rears & handbrake on.
Even better! May I ask why? Will the transmission not be tilted at an angle? My friend who helped last time put it up in front ramps for its oil change and he said it was okay. I didn't want to embarrass myself asking more questions so I left it at that but wanted to ask him why it could be done without the car being levelThe engine oil drain plug is at the back of the sump so tilting rearwards is fine. I never did a gear oil change.
IMO putting the car on ramps is always preferable to axle stands. Too many people get hurt under toppling cars and they don't allow very much ground clearance these days. One safety tip is to put removed wheels under the car so it can only fall a short distance.
IMO putting the car on ramps is always preferable to axle stands. Too many people get hurt under toppling cars and they don't allow very much ground clearance these days. One safety tip is to put removed wheels under the car so it can only fall a short distance.
Panamax said:
One safety tip is to put removed wheels under the car so it can only fall a short distance.
That's a good tip. Taking off the wheels and putting them under the sills generally gives enough of a safety margin that you'll at least survive should the axle stands collapse while you're underneath. Panamax said:
The engine oil drain plug is at the back of the sump so tilting rearwards is fine. I never did a gear oil change.
IMO putting the car on ramps is always preferable to axle stands. Too many people get hurt under toppling cars and they don't allow very much ground clearance these days. One safety tip is to put removed wheels under the car so it can only fall a short distance.
I have a friend with a ramp so will use that. The gear oil hopefully will drain out just the same. I think there's a drain plug with the fill plug above it.IMO putting the car on ramps is always preferable to axle stands. Too many people get hurt under toppling cars and they don't allow very much ground clearance these days. One safety tip is to put removed wheels under the car so it can only fall a short distance.
Someone suggested to me that rather than use the the thick as treacle Mercedes approved gear oil, I should consider using automatic transmission fluid instead and that it would be much better in cold weather and also smoother. As I have a great big jug of it from my previous autobox car, it would make sense to use it if I could.
I want to change the gear oil because it's probably never been done. The box was notchy over winter which I understand is normal but since the weather has picked up its still not as slick as it once was?
Has anyone else substituted ATF for manual gearbox oil?
hedges88 said:
Yes I remember, as this allows better flow from the drain hole. When filling up I believe you just fill them until they can't take anymore in and it starts dripping out rather than having to precisely measure it.
It’s no so much that, more the risk of removing the drain plug, dropping the oil & then finding the fill plug is seized in. darreni said:
hedges88 said:
Yes I remember, as this allows better flow from the drain hole. When filling up I believe you just fill them until they can't take anymore in and it starts dripping out rather than having to precisely measure it.
It’s no so much that, more the risk of removing the drain plug, dropping the oil & then finding the fill plug is seized in. Anyone got any opinions on using ATF? I just did a bit of research and found out some manufacturer's are actually using ATF or something very similar in manual boxes to reduce parasitic drag
You may find this useful, covers the 168, but most is relevant to the 169.
http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/mypage.5.htm
Specific 169 diys.
http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/page.1.169.htm
http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/mypage.5.htm
Specific 169 diys.
http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/page.1.169.htm
[quote=darreni]You may find this useful, covers the 168, but most is relevant to the 169.
http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/mypage.5.htm
Specific 169 diys.
http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/page.1.169.htm
[/quote
I very much appreciate it dude, I've been on Bert's site a lot and emailed him a good few times. Forrera (Sevan Motors) is someone who I've learned much about the 169 from
I do have full Mercedes Benz XENTRY , WIS , EPC, ASRA the works
There's a video of a South African guy showing you the procedure on YouTube too.
Thanks for sharing though, some people who don't know these funny little cars well will benefit big time from those links
http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/mypage.5.htm
Specific 169 diys.
http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/page.1.169.htm
[/quote
I very much appreciate it dude, I've been on Bert's site a lot and emailed him a good few times. Forrera (Sevan Motors) is someone who I've learned much about the 169 from
I do have full Mercedes Benz XENTRY , WIS , EPC, ASRA the works
There's a video of a South African guy showing you the procedure on YouTube too.
Thanks for sharing though, some people who don't know these funny little cars well will benefit big time from those links
hedges88 said:
darreni said:
hedges88 said:
Yes I remember, as this allows better flow from the drain hole. When filling up I believe you just fill them until they can't take anymore in and it starts dripping out rather than having to precisely measure it.
It’s no so much that, more the risk of removing the drain plug, dropping the oil & then finding the fill plug is seized in. Anyone got any opinions on using ATF? I just did a bit of research and found out some manufacturer's are actually using ATF or something very similar in manual boxes to reduce parasitic drag
hedges88 said:
Good advice I did not know or think about thank you
Anyone got any opinions on using ATF? I just did a bit of research and found out some manufacturer's are actually using ATF or something very similar in manual boxes to reduce parasitic drag
ATF and gear oil do very different jobs. Anyone got any opinions on using ATF? I just did a bit of research and found out some manufacturer's are actually using ATF or something very similar in manual boxes to reduce parasitic drag
ATF bathes wet clutches, fills the TC to act as the "fluid flywheel", it actuates the various clutches and is also pumped around as a coolant. Hence, it's quite low viscosity.
Gear oil needs to remain in the gear mesh interface despite whirling around on a cog at thousands of rpm with significant pressure between the cogs. Hence it is very viscous.
Possibly the ideal for an auto would be two types of fluid kept separate. But if a manual gearbox wasn't designed to use ATF you'll probably find you wear it out in short order if you run it on ATF as the gear teeth will rub together dry.
darreni said:
Then that's what I'll probably to for, I'm on 95+k so the clutch only probably has so far to go 
I get what people are saying about ATF, yes probably would work at least initially or at cold temperatures but very soon after your transmission would sound like a straight cut box from a racing car before probably giving up the ghost
donkmeister said:
ATF and gear oil do very different jobs.
This. It would be bonkers to put it in your Merc.As said above, I never did a gear oil change. If you're having difficulty selecting gears I'll bet you £1 to 1p that it's the linkage. just needs to be dismantled, lubricated and reassembled.
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