Snapped wheel nut?!
Discussion
New tyre day, but the fitter soon fetched me to show me a broken nut.
The cap seems to have sheered off, and his sockets just can't grip it. He was on his own, so recommended i go to a "specialist"
Of course, I can do better than that, and ask on here!
Does anyone have any suggestions?
A 19mm socket (it's original size) just spins
An 18mm will grip a bit, then twist off (it's just rounding the nut) - I could try hammering the socket on first?
I could try and chisel it undone with a small sharp chisel? But the depth of the wheel makes that hard to get sufficient angle
I have an arc welder: but my welding skills are awful, so I'm not sure I'd achieve much
Final thought was to buy a replacement wheel (eBay £90) and just angle grind the entire wheel off, and remove the nut at leisure.
Thanks
Ian
The cap seems to have sheered off, and his sockets just can't grip it. He was on his own, so recommended i go to a "specialist"
Of course, I can do better than that, and ask on here!
Does anyone have any suggestions?
A 19mm socket (it's original size) just spins
An 18mm will grip a bit, then twist off (it's just rounding the nut) - I could try hammering the socket on first?
I could try and chisel it undone with a small sharp chisel? But the depth of the wheel makes that hard to get sufficient angle
I have an arc welder: but my welding skills are awful, so I'm not sure I'd achieve much
Final thought was to buy a replacement wheel (eBay £90) and just angle grind the entire wheel off, and remove the nut at leisure.
Thanks
Ian
Its the locking wheel nut I think looking at this? I ended up drilling and using a screw in extractor on the last set I had mess up (key was worn)
You could try hammering on a 18 (or a 11/16 or 23/32 SAE) or use a bolt/nut remover like an easy out
You won't get in on that with a hammer and chisel to drive it round due to the angle I don't think
You could try hammering on a 18 (or a 11/16 or 23/32 SAE) or use a bolt/nut remover like an easy out
You won't get in on that with a hammer and chisel to drive it round due to the angle I don't think
Evening all,
Update time.
The first order of business was getting a new nut, as whatever I do, this one is being retired.
Amazon delivered a m12x1.5 nut next day for about £5
Of the suggested methods, I went for a bolt extractor kit - £16 from Amazon next day. This had 17mm, 19mm, 21mm and 23mm versions. The set linked from Screwfix only went up to 17mm bolts.
So, after getting back from work to my deliveries, I hammered the 19mm bolt extractor over the nut. I wasn't shy, and got a good fit with my lump hammer.
Then, I applied some force using a steel pipe.
I had to put a fair bit of force on this - it had been done up way too tight by someone in the past.
After a few seconds, I got the crack of it breaking loose, and I could refit the new bolt once removed.
This pic shows old Vs another old
It wasn't the locking nut - the chrome plated outer skin of an ordinary nut had sheered off on this but.
I don't blame the tyre shop guy, but it was a bit lame of them not to sort this imo. The lad was on his own, but a decent tyre place like Watling tyres (south east based) could have sorted it I reckon.
I would definitely recommend these bolt extractors, but space to get a good fit, and good leverage is essential.
I was tempted to drill down the side of the bolt and chisel it off, but we're off on holiday tomorrow in the car, and I didn't want to risk damaging the threads of the stud.
Ian
Update time.
The first order of business was getting a new nut, as whatever I do, this one is being retired.
Amazon delivered a m12x1.5 nut next day for about £5
Of the suggested methods, I went for a bolt extractor kit - £16 from Amazon next day. This had 17mm, 19mm, 21mm and 23mm versions. The set linked from Screwfix only went up to 17mm bolts.
So, after getting back from work to my deliveries, I hammered the 19mm bolt extractor over the nut. I wasn't shy, and got a good fit with my lump hammer.
Then, I applied some force using a steel pipe.
I had to put a fair bit of force on this - it had been done up way too tight by someone in the past.
After a few seconds, I got the crack of it breaking loose, and I could refit the new bolt once removed.
This pic shows old Vs another old
It wasn't the locking nut - the chrome plated outer skin of an ordinary nut had sheered off on this but.
I don't blame the tyre shop guy, but it was a bit lame of them not to sort this imo. The lad was on his own, but a decent tyre place like Watling tyres (south east based) could have sorted it I reckon.
I would definitely recommend these bolt extractors, but space to get a good fit, and good leverage is essential.
I was tempted to drill down the side of the bolt and chisel it off, but we're off on holiday tomorrow in the car, and I didn't want to risk damaging the threads of the stud.
Ian
Ian Geary said:
Evening all,
It wasn't the locking nut - the chrome plated outer skin of an ordinary nut had sheered off on this but.
Ian
Are you a Queenslander? It wasn't the locking nut - the chrome plated outer skin of an ordinary nut had sheered off on this but.
Ian
Glad it got sorted.
The locking wheel nuts should only be done up with a torque wrench. I had the same issue on my car and luckily it had winter steels on so a competent garage welded a nut on and whipped it off. The people who did it should have known better but they just washed their hands of it.
bongtom said:
The locking wheel nuts should only be done up with a torque wrench.
Fixed that for you!I must say, I don't think I have have used and actual torque wrench. Although I do at least tighten them with a 18" breaker bar and feel, rather than a dirty great big windy gun or 36v rattler, and do tend to go 1/8th turn less on the locking nuts.
The other fav rave, and I have seen it done by large brands, is to rattle it up F-T and then drop a torque wrench over and have the click off straight away without moving a thing.
dhutch said:
Fixed that for you!
I must say, I don't think I have have used and actual torque wrench. Although I do at least tighten them with a 18" breaker bar and feel, rather than a dirty great big windy gun or 36v rattler, and do tend to go 1/8th turn less on the locking nuts.
The other fav rave, and I have seen it done by large brands, is to rattle it up F-T and then drop a torque wrench over and have the click off straight away without moving a thing.
I bought some torque sticks. Great for using the bloody great big rattler but knowing you are reaching a max torque that’s correct for the wheels nuts (to the nearest 10)I must say, I don't think I have have used and actual torque wrench. Although I do at least tighten them with a 18" breaker bar and feel, rather than a dirty great big windy gun or 36v rattler, and do tend to go 1/8th turn less on the locking nuts.
The other fav rave, and I have seen it done by large brands, is to rattle it up F-T and then drop a torque wrench over and have the click off straight away without moving a thing.
Panamax said:
Apparently it's a common problem. My tyre specialist says chuck those nuts away and fit some normal ones.
Fiesta has decorative stainless covers, 19mm AF with cover on, 18mm AF with cover removed. Locking wheel nut tool and supplied wheel brace are 19mm.Pain in the arse. on an 08 plate car obviously most of the covers are missing, so you need an 18mm socket. And the 19.
dhutch said:
I must say, I don't think I have have used and actual torque wrench. Although I do at least tighten them with a 18" breaker bar and feel,
I tighten them with the handle that I keep in the boot, so as I'm using the same tool to undo them, in theory I should have no problems.dhutch said:
Panamax said:
Apparently it's a common problem. My tyre specialist says chuck those nuts away and fit some normal ones.
Fiesta has decorative stainless covers, 19mm AF with cover on, 18mm AF with cover removed. Locking wheel nut tool and supplied wheel brace are 19mm.Pain in the arse. on an 08 plate car obviously most of the covers are missing, so you need an 18mm socket. And the 19.
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