ABS code after wheel bearing replacement
Discussion
I replaced one front wheel bearing on my 2012 A4 Allroad.
This threw up a fault code pointing to the ABS sensor on that side. I replaced the sensor as well and the problem persists but on a more intermittent basis - sometimes you can drive 15 miles before it reactivates and shows warning lights for ABS, traction control and rear parking brake.
The bearing was not a genuine Audi part but came for a reputable parts supplier.
Any thoughts?
I've read that a resulting difference in signal strength between the remaining original bearing and sensor on one side and the replaced ones on the other side can cause the old side to throw up a fault.
Am I left with having to change the other side as well even though the bearing is quiet?
This threw up a fault code pointing to the ABS sensor on that side. I replaced the sensor as well and the problem persists but on a more intermittent basis - sometimes you can drive 15 miles before it reactivates and shows warning lights for ABS, traction control and rear parking brake.
The bearing was not a genuine Audi part but came for a reputable parts supplier.
Any thoughts?
I've read that a resulting difference in signal strength between the remaining original bearing and sensor on one side and the replaced ones on the other side can cause the old side to throw up a fault.
Am I left with having to change the other side as well even though the bearing is quiet?
Is the abs sensor part of the bearing on these? Did you fit the bearing the correct way round?
Some bearings have a special magnetic encoder on one side only
https://www.nskeurope.com/en/Automotive-Aftermarke...
Some bearings have a special magnetic encoder on one side only
https://www.nskeurope.com/en/Automotive-Aftermarke...
GreenV8S said:
Does the sensor need to be depthed? You should be able to see the reluctor wheel if you remove the sensor. Do you have enough access to measure the distance to the wheel so you can check the sensor/wheel spacing?
There's no depth adjustment on the Audi - you press the bearing and carrier onto the splined hub until it meets a stop and that's it.The reluctor ring cannot be seen once installed as it's shrouded by the swivel hub casting and the sensor is inserted through a hole in the casting so the 'flight height' is pretty much fixed.
Lotobear said:
There's no depth adjustment on the Audi - you press the bearing and carrier onto the splined hub until it meets a stop and that's it.
The reluctor ring cannot be seen once installed as it's shrouded by the swivel hub casting and the sensor is inserted through a hole in the casting so the 'flight height' is pretty much fixed.
I meant the depth of the sensor. The position of the reluctor wheel will obviously be fixed. The sensor would have to be removed to check the depth.The reluctor ring cannot be seen once installed as it's shrouded by the swivel hub casting and the sensor is inserted through a hole in the casting so the 'flight height' is pretty much fixed.
GreenV8S said:
Lotobear said:
There's no depth adjustment on the Audi - you press the bearing and carrier onto the splined hub until it meets a stop and that's it.
The reluctor ring cannot be seen once installed as it's shrouded by the swivel hub casting and the sensor is inserted through a hole in the casting so the 'flight height' is pretty much fixed.
I meant the depth of the sensor. The position of the reluctor wheel will obviously be fixed. The sensor would have to be removed to check the depth.The reluctor ring cannot be seen once installed as it's shrouded by the swivel hub casting and the sensor is inserted through a hole in the casting so the 'flight height' is pretty much fixed.
Obviously a reputable sourced part, but presumably if the reluctor ring teeth were slightly out of spec with the others, then the signal wouldn't match and could feasibly trigger codes if there's enough of a discrepancy?
Arguably the other bearing is going to go 'eventually', so maybe a second one from the same supplier may resolve things, but I don't want to be the guy suggesting firing the parts cannon as your solution...
Arguably the other bearing is going to go 'eventually', so maybe a second one from the same supplier may resolve things, but I don't want to be the guy suggesting firing the parts cannon as your solution...
SturdyHSV said:
Obviously a reputable sourced part, but presumably if the reluctor ring teeth were slightly out of spec with the others, then the signal wouldn't match and could feasibly trigger codes if there's enough of a discrepancy?
Arguably the other bearing is going to go 'eventually', so maybe a second one from the same supplier may resolve things, but I don't want to be the guy suggesting firing the parts cannon as your solution...
I agree - either out of spec or just a badly-aligned reluctor ring that's upsetting the system. Grab another from a different brand.Arguably the other bearing is going to go 'eventually', so maybe a second one from the same supplier may resolve things, but I don't want to be the guy suggesting firing the parts cannon as your solution...
SturdyHSV said:
Obviously a reputable sourced part, but presumably if the reluctor ring teeth were slightly out of spec with the others, then the signal wouldn't match and could feasibly trigger codes if there's enough of a discrepancy?
Arguably the other bearing is going to go 'eventually', so maybe a second one from the same supplier may resolve things, but I don't want to be the guy suggesting firing the parts cannon as your solution...
Your heading in the same direction I was thinking. The pattern parts may work but be out of spec and that's causing an 'imbalance' between the old and new sidesArguably the other bearing is going to go 'eventually', so maybe a second one from the same supplier may resolve things, but I don't want to be the guy suggesting firing the parts cannon as your solution...
Replacing the bearing and sensor on the other side may resolve the issue, if I source from the same supplier.
It's the only logical conclusion really as everything was fine, sans a very noisy bearing, until I swapped it out.
IIRC the Renault MeganeSport had an issue with abs if non-genuine was used & I wonder if your Audi has a similar issue?
Anything on Audi forums?
When I replaced the rear discs - which come with bearings etc already fitted - on my son's 225 I used genuine Renault from the local franchised dealer & had no issues. (Apart from the price!)
Anything on Audi forums?
When I replaced the rear discs - which come with bearings etc already fitted - on my son's 225 I used genuine Renault from the local franchised dealer & had no issues. (Apart from the price!)
Demelitia said:
Any chance a bit of rust has come loose during install and stuck to the sensor?
I’ve seen it happen enough that it’s worth a check; it might just need a clean off and the bore it sits in blowing out.
Yes I've done that - inserted a cotton bud through with some brake cleaner on and spun the hub with it held against the reluctor ring then blew it out with compressed air.I’ve seen it happen enough that it’s worth a check; it might just need a clean off and the bore it sits in blowing out.
However I haven't done the other side and I may replace the sensor on that side as well as it's simple. If that doesn't work I may have to bight the bullet and do the bearing on that side too so that both sides are exactly the same.
..aaand if that doesn't work then f
k it!Fortunately I've just had it MOT'd and they passed it as the warning lights were not on at the time so I can use the car, it's just bloody annoying me.
I'm about the change the car anyway so if I can't fix it I'll just declare the issue and leave it for the next owner. The car is only worth around 6k at best.
I’m with the others, pattern parts especially Chinese made are crap. Their quality control is non existent and the just play percentages and expect a number of returns rather than build right, test and reject before customers even see the parts.
You didn’t have the fault before, you do now. It’s a simple as that,
Plug in your scan tool and log live data for all four wheel sensors and I’m pretty confident you’ll see drop outs in the readings for the side you replaced.
You didn’t have the fault before, you do now. It’s a simple as that,
Plug in your scan tool and log live data for all four wheel sensors and I’m pretty confident you’ll see drop outs in the readings for the side you replaced.
Edited by Smiljan on Friday 11th November 08:44
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