Where can I get one of these??

[President Merkin]

It's a 90 degree ring terminal connector connecting my starter motor to the alternator. It shorted on a heat shield & burnt through the cable. Unfortunately it's an indivisible part, so I have to repair the cable rather than swap a new one in. I'm struggling to find a suitable spare, any ideas for a supplier?

[tones61]

Car builder solutions, online :-)

[tapkaJohnD]

Mr.President.
That connector is crimped and soldered to the cable end, so dismantle it! Heat it untikl the solder melt then knock out the solder by hitting it on a solid surface. Then prise open the crimping with a small screwdriver.

Re-attaching the connector to the cable may need some creative work with pliers and/or a vice, but add some solder and i should be good!

Good luck!
John

[President Merkin]

Thanks chaps, I managed to find one to replace it. Doesn't show in the photos very well but the existing one is too damaged to reuse. Not ure what happened but I think it rubbed throught the insulation & shorted on the heat shield.The smoke coming out the bonnet was impressive.

Edited by President Merkin on Thursday 5th January 10:54

[donkmeister]

tapkaJohnD said:

Mr.President.
That connector is crimped and soldered to the cable end, so dismantle it! Heat it untikl the solder melt then knock out the solder by hitting it on a solid surface. Then prise open the crimping with a small screwdriver.

Re-attaching the connector to the cable may need some creative work with pliers and/or a vice, but add some solder and i should be good!

Good luck!
John

I'm going off-topic; it certainly looks like crimp + solder, but I thought that this combo was a big no-no? The idea being that a properly made crimp forms a cold weld, so solder adds no benefit but instead creates a brittle region near the crimp point.

[President Merkin]

Can't answer that save to say all of those joints on the car are crimp & solder from the factory. I've repaired it now, so thanks for the advice lads.

[tapkaJohnD]

donkmeister said:

I'm going off-topic; it certainly looks like crimp + solder, but I thought that this combo was a big no-no? The idea being that a properly made crimp forms a cold weld, so solder adds no benefit but instead creates a brittle region near the crimp point.

Indeed, donkmeister. But remaking a crimp, unless you have a crimping tool and must resort to vice and mole wrench may nkt achieve that good connection. Hence the soldering as an extra. Problems more likely with small wires than great big alternator ones.
John

[E-bmw]

donkmeister said:

I'm going off-topic; it certainly looks like crimp + solder, but I thought that this combo was a big no-no? The idea being that a properly made crimp forms a cold weld, so solder adds no benefit but instead creates a brittle region near the crimp point.

You are & so am I, but not to labour the point or argue, just to present another opinion.

The 2 metals are squashed into the same space & if you were to open up the crimp the 2 metals will come apart, so it isn't welded.

The solder & crimp connection has been used for many years on high current connections as it theoretically increases the CSA at the point of the contact to reduce resistance. Whether it is significant or not, I don't know.

I am not sure how there would then be a brittle area next to the solder.

[GreenV8S]

E-bmw said:

I am not sure how there would then be a brittle area next to the solder.

That happens when the solder wicks along the conductor beyond the crimped/clamped section.

[E-bmw]

GreenV8S said:

E-bmw said:

I am not sure how there would then be a brittle area next to the solder.

That happens when the solder wicks along the conductor beyond the crimped/clamped section.

Less flexible, yes & therefore possibly more prone to break, but I wouldn't have said prone enough to say brittle.

[GreenV8S]

E-bmw said:

Less flexible, yes & therefore possibly more prone to break, but I wouldn't have said prone enough to say brittle.

The brittleness comes because the soldered part of the wire won't flex, so the part just past the solder sees more flex and work hardens quicker. It's the 'work hardening' equivalent of a stress raiser.

[E-bmw]

GreenV8S said:

E-bmw said:

Less flexible, yes & therefore possibly more prone to break, but I wouldn't have said prone enough to say brittle.

The brittleness comes because the soldered part of the wire won't flex, so the part just past the solder sees more flex and work hardens quicker. It's the 'work hardening' equivalent of a stress raiser.

Correct, work hardening can cause it to become brittle but how many large connectors like the one shown actually move enough to work harden?