hyd clutch fault diagnosis please
Discussion
been having a nightmare with my golf clutch - heres the low down briefly as i can
did clutch job and cant get pedal
new slave , new master , new oem style hose
still no good , bled MANY times
if i clamp the rubber hose after the master , the pedal is firm /solid , does this confirm master is okay and bled?
remove the hose clamp , remove slave from box and clamp the rod steady...pump the pedal and its spongey , can push it to floor , tried old slave and bled again with it off and nipple at highest point and its just the same
what gives? 2 dud slaves
did clutch job and cant get pedal
new slave , new master , new oem style hose
still no good , bled MANY times
if i clamp the rubber hose after the master , the pedal is firm /solid , does this confirm master is okay and bled?
remove the hose clamp , remove slave from box and clamp the rod steady...pump the pedal and its spongey , can push it to floor , tried old slave and bled again with it off and nipple at highest point and its just the same
what gives? 2 dud slaves
Possible but unlikely.
What year is the car? If yours has the 'quick-connect' unions with the stupid little rubber seals at the ends of the pipes, make sure that they are all present and correct, it's easy to miss them if they flick out.
But I think you probably still have air in the system and it needs to be pressure bled or vacuum bled ie with a bit more 'ooomph', even try depressing the pedal whilst pressure bleeding.
What year is the car? If yours has the 'quick-connect' unions with the stupid little rubber seals at the ends of the pipes, make sure that they are all present and correct, it's easy to miss them if they flick out.
But I think you probably still have air in the system and it needs to be pressure bled or vacuum bled ie with a bit more 'ooomph', even try depressing the pedal whilst pressure bleeding.
Hmmmm.... you've trie d few methods then! ...you need a good 'surge', plenty of volume, a tsunami rather than a trickle, to drive the air out. Try loading it up with the pressure bleeder AND then apply firm and full pedal depression simultaneously, with the bleed screw at least a turn out, preferable 'valved' only with a finger-tip (gets messy).
Alternatively, at the other end of the scale, the old pedal-block trick; bleed screw closed, get what pressure you can by pumping, then block the pedal down overnight with a pedal depressor (best, as it's instantly and infinitely adjustable) or some timber.
Alternatively, at the other end of the scale, the old pedal-block trick; bleed screw closed, get what pressure you can by pumping, then block the pedal down overnight with a pedal depressor (best, as it's instantly and infinitely adjustable) or some timber.
I hear you, but you need to shift some volume... a sustained 'whoosh' of fluid... if it's insufficient, you can get the air just going round in an eddy in a corner rather than moving on down the bus! I'm not 100% sure that an Eezibleed is up to it tbh, but do be careful not to increase the pressure too much, you don't really want to be over one bar/15psi .
so far ive been using this mostly https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motive-Products-Brake-Ble...
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