Locking wheel nuts/bolts
Discussion
A few weeks ago I wanted to swop the wheels over on a recently bought Volvo V70. The key was a poor fit in what was left of some of the nuts due to wear and I simply couldn't remove them. Nor could the Volvo specialist who had to call in outside assistance.
On Sunday I passed a lady and her son on a remote country road in Scotland (A85) around 8pm, raining and starting to get dark. Turned round to assist, there was a wheel propped up against the car, she was waiting for the arrival of some family members with hammers and chisels as the key for the wheel nuts had stripped!
Her car was a VAG product I think, no idea what type of locking mechanism, the Volvo item (not really sure if nut or bolt) seemed like the outer was just spinning.
Got me thinking, is there a one size fits all locking nut/bolt remover, that you know will work? There seems to be a few options available on internet but no idea on their quality of effectiveness.
On Sunday I passed a lady and her son on a remote country road in Scotland (A85) around 8pm, raining and starting to get dark. Turned round to assist, there was a wheel propped up against the car, she was waiting for the arrival of some family members with hammers and chisels as the key for the wheel nuts had stripped!
Her car was a VAG product I think, no idea what type of locking mechanism, the Volvo item (not really sure if nut or bolt) seemed like the outer was just spinning.
Got me thinking, is there a one size fits all locking nut/bolt remover, that you know will work? There seems to be a few options available on internet but no idea on their quality of effectiveness.
EmailAddress said:
Carefully... keeping the two straight.
Irwin 394002 Bolt Grip Nut Remover Expansion Set, 5/16" (8mm), 10mm, 13mm, 11/16", 3/4" (19mm) https://amzn.eu/d/j4j2t2n
Will they bite into a circular locking nut?Irwin 394002 Bolt Grip Nut Remover Expansion Set, 5/16" (8mm), 10mm, 13mm, 11/16", 3/4" (19mm) https://amzn.eu/d/j4j2t2n
(the angle grinder ain't no good at the side of the road and the nut down inside a recess i the wheel.)
EmailAddress said:
ETA. I don't know why people have trouble with locking nuts.
Don't over torque them, and like all nuts, have them off once in a while and they're fine.
And for those that say they are no theft deterrent, they may be a minor inconvenience, but that still adds a few seconds, or moves them on to the next vehicle.
And copperslip on the bolts and the hub whilst the wheel is off. Don't over torque them, and like all nuts, have them off once in a while and they're fine.
And for those that say they are no theft deterrent, they may be a minor inconvenience, but that still adds a few seconds, or moves them on to the next vehicle.
Dynomec.
https://lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCA...
These are the tools the breakdown guys use. Thery are brilliant. And if your in Yorkshire, they have a workshop service, also briliant.
https://lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCA...
These are the tools the breakdown guys use. Thery are brilliant. And if your in Yorkshire, they have a workshop service, also briliant.
eliot said:
And copperslip on the bolts and the hub whilst the wheel is off.
...is probably the worst thing you could do, given that everything is rated as 'dry' torque values and a friction fit. The only bit where copaslip may be acceptable is the spigot bore.We have debated this many times here.
In answer to the OP, i have removed all my locking nuts and replaced with standard. More trouble than they're worth, IMO. Does anyone actually steal 'ordinary' alloy wheels these days?
littleredrooster said:
eliot said:
And copperslip on the bolts and the hub whilst the wheel is off.
...is probably the worst thing you could do, given that everything is rated as 'dry' torque values and a friction fit. The only bit where copaslip may be acceptable is the spigot bore.Any kind of grease, anti-seize compound or friction-reducing agent like Copaslip will allow the bolt to turn further for the same torque applied at the bolt-head, stretching the bolts to such a degree that they either reduce in diameter and no longer engage with the threads, break immediately or become brittle due to work hardening and snap off when the vehicle is underway at a later date. If you've ever done this to make bolts easier to remove on your car, you should buy a full set of new wheel bolts and fit them after using copious amounts of brake cleaner and a circular wire brush to remove any remnants of grease or other agents from the threads of the hub.
snotrag said:
Dynomec.
https://lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCA...
These are the tools the breakdown guys use. Thery are brilliant. And if your in Yorkshire, they have a workshop service, also briliant.
I came on here to say this. These work really well.https://lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCA...
These are the tools the breakdown guys use. Thery are brilliant. And if your in Yorkshire, they have a workshop service, also briliant.
I buy lots of used cars, and one of the first jobs is to remove the locking wheel bolts. Usually the wheel bolt key has been lost, so I use these. They are expensive, but work well, and I would heartily recommend them.
LunarOne said:
littleredrooster said:
eliot said:
And copperslip on the bolts and the hub whilst the wheel is off.
...is probably the worst thing you could do, given that everything is rated as 'dry' torque values and a friction fit. The only bit where copaslip may be acceptable is the spigot bore.Any kind of grease, anti-seize compound or friction-reducing agent like Copaslip will allow the bolt to turn further for the same torque applied at the bolt-head, stretching the bolts to such a degree that they either reduce in diameter and no longer engage with the threads, break immediately or become brittle due to work hardening and snap off when the vehicle is underway at a later date. If you've ever done this to make bolts easier to remove on your car, you should buy a full set of new wheel bolts and fit them after using copious amounts of brake cleaner and a circular wire brush to remove any remnants of grease or other agents from the threads of the hub.
t that’s not as tight as i left it”I get the argument - but never been a problem for me.
7 5 7 said:
Volvo ones are particularly st, they do just spin - absolute pain to remove if you lose or damage your locking wheel nut tool - every car I have had now since then, I have replaced them all and just stuck on a standard bolt, BMW ones are also made of cheddar cheese too!
That's what the Volvo guys said too. My instruction was to replace with standard. Did the same with the Boxster when I bought it.t, they do just spin - absolute pain to remove if you lose or damage your locking wheel nut tool - every car I have had now since then, I have replaced them all and just stuck on a standard bolt, BMW ones are also made of cheddar cheese too!snotrag said:
Dynomec.
https://lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCA...
These are the tools the breakdown guys use. Thery are brilliant. And if your in Yorkshire, they have a workshop service, also briliant.
Had been wondering about buying some kit and carrying in the car, either for my own use or to assist someone, like the lady on Sunday evening but £147 is a bit much for a "may be of use sometime".https://lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCA...
These are the tools the breakdown guys use. Thery are brilliant. And if your in Yorkshire, they have a workshop service, also briliant.
EmailAddress said:
ETA. I don't know why people have trouble with locking nuts.
Don't over torque them, and like all nuts, have them off once in a while and they're fine.
Very good point... And no mechanic or tyre fitter in the entire history of cars has ever used an impact to refit wheelnuts to F.T. + 50 Nm + 360-degrees, so I don't understand either.Don't over torque them, and like all nuts, have them off once in a while and they're fine.
Pica-Pica said:
While we are on the subject. Has anyone got any recommendations for hand torque wrenches? The range on my old Norbar is too low. I am looking for anything that can cope with 140Nm torque, so top limit of 150 to 200 Nm.
I've had the Halfords advanced one for probably 20 years and while I haven't had it calibrated, I always unset it after use and it's been fine. I keep looking at the fancy digital ones. Don't need one at all given my occasional use but the want is there!7 5 7 said:
Volvo ones are particularly st, they do just spin - absolute pain to remove if you lose or damage your locking wheel nut tool - every car I have had now since then, I have replaced them all and just stuck on a standard bolt, BMW ones are also made of cheddar cheese too!
I am sorry to disagree but I have had 5 BMs & 3 Volvos & never had an issue with any of their locking wheel keys, and for years I have used summer/winter wheels that I swap over and service myself.t, they do just spin - absolute pain to remove if you lose or damage your locking wheel nut tool - every car I have had now since then, I have replaced them all and just stuck on a standard bolt, BMW ones are also made of cheddar cheese too!Like any others if you use them carefully they work every time.
B'stard Child said:
eliot said:
Been doing it 30 years - never lost a bolt or stripped a locking nut. Never undone a bolt and thought ‘st that’s not as tight as i left it”
I get the argument - but never been a problem for me.
You aren’t alone on that although it’s been since 1982 for me.t that’s not as tight as i left it”I get the argument - but never been a problem for me.
The bigger issue on using lubricants on bolts/nuts is if you lubricate the face of the nut/bolt rather than just a small smear on the thread.
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