What glue for rear window on convertible roof?
Discussion
Noticed today that the rear window in my TT Roadster is no longer glued to the roof properly - in fact, it's not glued at all along the top!
I've searched - and it looks like it basically means buying windscreen glue + suction clamps. Fair enough, but I'm struggling to find the right glue. Most of the stuff I found online recommended 3M - but were American, and it seems harder to buy the 3M stuff here.
I've seen Masterbond mentioned on an old PH thread - albeit for a windscreen. So would that be the right stuff?
I've searched - and it looks like it basically means buying windscreen glue + suction clamps. Fair enough, but I'm struggling to find the right glue. Most of the stuff I found online recommended 3M - but were American, and it seems harder to buy the 3M stuff here.
I've seen Masterbond mentioned on an old PH thread - albeit for a windscreen. So would that be the right stuff?
I've tried a lot of things on mine, and ended up with the cheap two-pack epoxy adhesive from the pound shop. The main reason I prefer this is because it goes off in five minutes, which does away with having to try to cobble together some means of holding it all together - I can hold the thing in place for five minutes, then do the next couple of inches. Mine went all across the top and while it took a while to do it, it was less fiddly than the other things I've tried.
Mine still leaks in the corner, so it has a drip tray underneath it to protect the electronic box conveniently placed underneath, so it makes it a bit of a faff to open the roof. I need to get around to sticking the inner canvas strip back in place as that helps to support the window, but I've also got a replacement hood and I'd be better trying to find the time to put that on instead.
Mine still leaks in the corner, so it has a drip tray underneath it to protect the electronic box conveniently placed underneath, so it makes it a bit of a faff to open the roof. I need to get around to sticking the inner canvas strip back in place as that helps to support the window, but I've also got a replacement hood and I'd be better trying to find the time to put that on instead.
Thanks. I don't think moving to a plastic window would be my first choice.
There is a local convertible roof specialist that I've used before for other roof issues, and apparently they can also do this but need photos to confirm the price. So I'll probably get them to do it - roof has been intermittent a couple of times recently, so they can look into that too.
There is a local convertible roof specialist that I've used before for other roof issues, and apparently they can also do this but need photos to confirm the price. So I'll probably get them to do it - roof has been intermittent a couple of times recently, so they can look into that too.
Edited by davek_964 on Wednesday 4th June 19:56
davek_964 said:
Thanks. I don't think moving to a plastic window would be my first choice.
There is a local convertible roof specialist that I've used before for other roof issues, and apparently they can also do this but need photos to confirm the price. So I'll probably get them to do it - roof has been intermittent a couple of times recently, so they can look into that too.
Why did you make the first post then ?There is a local convertible roof specialist that I've used before for other roof issues, and apparently they can also do this but need photos to confirm the price. So I'll probably get them to do it - roof has been intermittent a couple of times recently, so they can look into that too.
Edited by davek_964 on Wednesday 4th June 19:56
cliffords said:
davek_964 said:
Thanks. I don't think moving to a plastic window would be my first choice.
There is a local convertible roof specialist that I've used before for other roof issues, and apparently they can also do this but need photos to confirm the price. So I'll probably get them to do it - roof has been intermittent a couple of times recently, so they can look into that too.
Why did you make the first post then ?There is a local convertible roof specialist that I've used before for other roof issues, and apparently they can also do this but need photos to confirm the price. So I'll probably get them to do it - roof has been intermittent a couple of times recently, so they can look into that too.
Edited by davek_964 on Wednesday 4th June 19:56
Didn't realise I'd upset the forum police.
davek_964 said:
There is a local convertible roof specialist that I've used before for other roof issues, and apparently they can also do this but need photos to confirm the price. So I'll probably get them to do it - roof has been intermittent a couple of times recently, so they can look into that too.
It'd be interesting to hear what they say, and roughly how much it costs. And of course to see what sort of a job they do, if you go ahead. If it's not extremely expensive it might save me a couple of days, which is what people tell me it takes to swap a roof on one of these. It can be done more quickly if you buy the roof on the frame and can swap the entire unit, but my replacement roof had some bits cut to remove it from the donor, so I can't do it that way.droopsnoot said:
It'd be interesting to hear what they say, and roughly how much it costs. And of course to see what sort of a job they do, if you go ahead. If it's not extremely expensive it might save me a couple of days, which is what people tell me it takes to swap a roof on one of these. It can be done more quickly if you buy the roof on the frame and can swap the entire unit, but my replacement roof had some bits cut to remove it from the donor, so I can't do it that way.
I think that on the phone yesterday they said it would be something like £200 - £400 depending on the photos. Swapping the roof would be another option - but even if I went that route, I think I'd want them to do it.
Have now sent the photos to the roof specialist, but have a feeling they may say it's too much to do - the glue has failed all along the top, all on the LHS (from the rear of the car) and most of the RHS - but it's still attached firmly in the top right corner and the bottom all seems firmly attached.
If they can't / won't do it, I'll have to try myself. I found a new thread on PH today where somebody had used JB Weld and said it was very successful.
A new roof can be made by a company in Sevenoaks - for the grand sum of £2,250 inc vat. Which I'd really like to avoid for a car which is probably only worth twice that.
I did try a few trim companies locally who basically said : No. The roof shrinks over time, which makes it almost impossible to rebond properly.
Which I suspect will limit how good the repair would be whether I do it myself or get the specialist to do it. I'll see what they come back with.
It's a car that I'd lost interest in anyway (not that I had that much to start with) and was toying with the idea of selling. So the conclusion might end up that I sell it cheap / WBAC or get a new roof and then sell it for a few thousand more (it's low mileage, so a new roof would help it go I suppose).
If they can't / won't do it, I'll have to try myself. I found a new thread on PH today where somebody had used JB Weld and said it was very successful.
A new roof can be made by a company in Sevenoaks - for the grand sum of £2,250 inc vat. Which I'd really like to avoid for a car which is probably only worth twice that.
I did try a few trim companies locally who basically said : No. The roof shrinks over time, which makes it almost impossible to rebond properly.
Which I suspect will limit how good the repair would be whether I do it myself or get the specialist to do it. I'll see what they come back with.
It's a car that I'd lost interest in anyway (not that I had that much to start with) and was toying with the idea of selling. So the conclusion might end up that I sell it cheap / WBAC or get a new roof and then sell it for a few thousand more (it's low mileage, so a new roof would help it go I suppose).
The trim companies are right. The glass in the roofs of Audi and BMW rag-tops are pressed in. Over time the fabric shrinks.
Repairing a loose window in situ is awkward as you don't have any way of applying the same kind of pressure as they do in the factory when they're assembled. You will need the fabric to be dry; bone dry. Then it would need to be treated to accept an appropriate [for fabrics] adhesive.
The taks can be made somewhat easier by removing the roof from the car and 'reglazing' in on a bench, hence my suggestion of sewing a plastic one into it or swap the whole roof for a watertight one.
Repairing a loose window in situ is awkward as you don't have any way of applying the same kind of pressure as they do in the factory when they're assembled. You will need the fabric to be dry; bone dry. Then it would need to be treated to accept an appropriate [for fabrics] adhesive.
The taks can be made somewhat easier by removing the roof from the car and 'reglazing' in on a bench, hence my suggestion of sewing a plastic one into it or swap the whole roof for a watertight one.
Thanks for the extra info.
I've had a quote for bonding the screen in again which is just over £300.
That seems pretty reasonable, but my gut feeling is that it will really be a temporary fix and is unlikely to last long term. So having slept on it, I think I am probably going to cut my losses and replace the roof completely - if that can be done reasonably soon. If I have to wait a month, fine - but if it's a several month lead time that's really not practical and I'll try the bonding instead.
Unfortunately, Car Hood Warehouse - which has been recommended to me by a couple of people - seems to be closed until Monday. So I'll have to wait until next week to find out how long I need to wait for a new roof, and which direction I'll go in.
I've had a quote for bonding the screen in again which is just over £300.
That seems pretty reasonable, but my gut feeling is that it will really be a temporary fix and is unlikely to last long term. So having slept on it, I think I am probably going to cut my losses and replace the roof completely - if that can be done reasonably soon. If I have to wait a month, fine - but if it's a several month lead time that's really not practical and I'll try the bonding instead.
Unfortunately, Car Hood Warehouse - which has been recommended to me by a couple of people - seems to be closed until Monday. So I'll have to wait until next week to find out how long I need to wait for a new roof, and which direction I'll go in.
Just a quick update :
I called Car Hood Warehouse last week, who told me that the lead time is roughly 4 weeks - pay 50% when you order and the remainder when it's fitted. I have pretty much concluded that I do need to replace the entire roof - apart from the rear window issue, there is also a small tear on the outer skin of the roof (not the waterproof layer) which would make it difficult to sell.
However, it's not really practical to use the car as it is for a month so I decided to attempt my own bonding as a temporary fix :
Removing the old glue was easy enough - I bought a scraper tool from Amazon which is actually advertised as being for cleaning glass hobs. I was very dubious that it would scrape old glue off a window - but actually it did it very well, without causing any problems with scratches.
I bought Masterbond windscreen glue which sets pretty quickly - supposedly driveable in an hour. Masked up around the window and applied primer. So far, it was all looking easy enough.......
I had already read that getting the masterbond stuff out was difficult because it was so thick - I warmed it in hot water for about 20 mins. It was still very difficult to get out, and impossible to have any kind of control over where it was going.
With hindsight, I also think that the stuff I'd put inside the car to support the rear window was pushing it a little hard - which meant that the fabric roof was unable to get quite as far onto the glass along the top as I would have liked.
I left it to dry pretty sure it had failed miserably.
In fact, it seems to have worked OK. I am still dubious that the fabric is actually "on" the glass by more than a couple of mm - but it seems to have stuck well, and it looks like the Masterbond glue stays flexible which is probably good.
I wouldn't dare try and use the roof so it is only a temporary fix. But considering the replacement is £2,250 inc - I've not decided yet how long it will be a temporary fix. I might order a new roof this week or I might leave it for a while and see if the repair holds up for a few months.
If it fails again, I can always revert to Duck tape for a month!
I called Car Hood Warehouse last week, who told me that the lead time is roughly 4 weeks - pay 50% when you order and the remainder when it's fitted. I have pretty much concluded that I do need to replace the entire roof - apart from the rear window issue, there is also a small tear on the outer skin of the roof (not the waterproof layer) which would make it difficult to sell.
However, it's not really practical to use the car as it is for a month so I decided to attempt my own bonding as a temporary fix :
Removing the old glue was easy enough - I bought a scraper tool from Amazon which is actually advertised as being for cleaning glass hobs. I was very dubious that it would scrape old glue off a window - but actually it did it very well, without causing any problems with scratches.
I bought Masterbond windscreen glue which sets pretty quickly - supposedly driveable in an hour. Masked up around the window and applied primer. So far, it was all looking easy enough.......
I had already read that getting the masterbond stuff out was difficult because it was so thick - I warmed it in hot water for about 20 mins. It was still very difficult to get out, and impossible to have any kind of control over where it was going.
With hindsight, I also think that the stuff I'd put inside the car to support the rear window was pushing it a little hard - which meant that the fabric roof was unable to get quite as far onto the glass along the top as I would have liked.
I left it to dry pretty sure it had failed miserably.
In fact, it seems to have worked OK. I am still dubious that the fabric is actually "on" the glass by more than a couple of mm - but it seems to have stuck well, and it looks like the Masterbond glue stays flexible which is probably good.
I wouldn't dare try and use the roof so it is only a temporary fix. But considering the replacement is £2,250 inc - I've not decided yet how long it will be a temporary fix. I might order a new roof this week or I might leave it for a while and see if the repair holds up for a few months.
If it fails again, I can always revert to Duck tape for a month!
davek_964 said:
I wouldn't dare try and use the roof so it is only a temporary fix. But considering the replacement is £2,250 inc - I've not decided yet how long it will be a temporary fix. I might order a new roof this week or I might leave it for a while and see if the repair holds up for a few months.
Wow, that's a lot. I haven't asked what age of TT it is, but Mk1 roofs in decent condition from breakers tend to be around £300 including the frame, and it's very much quicker to replace the entire thing including the frame than it is to swap just the skin.droopsnoot said:
Wow, that's a lot. I haven't asked what age of TT it is, but Mk1 roofs in decent condition from breakers tend to be around £300 including the frame, and it's very much quicker to replace the entire thing including the frame than it is to swap just the skin.
I suppose a breaker one would be an option but to be honest I'd rather pay for a new one than mess about fitting a used one - especially since the rear window glue on that will still be old. It's a mk 2 - the new replacement roof is actually much cheaper for mk 1 for some reason.
davek_964 said:
I suppose a breaker one would be an option but to be honest I'd rather pay for a new one than mess about fitting a used one - especially since the rear window glue on that will still be old.
It's a mk 2 - the new replacement roof is actually much cheaper for mk 1 for some reason.
I find it a bit depressing that the problem still exists on the Mk2, though it was perhaps designed before it became apparent on the Mk1 that the way they hold the window in place isn't suitable. The thing with the Mk1 is that the lower value of the cars in general (and mine specifically, because of the age and mileage) means that a couple of grand for a new roof would be probably twice the value of the car. It's a mk 2 - the new replacement roof is actually much cheaper for mk 1 for some reason.
Just seen this thread. My XKR rear window came loose in a similar fashion about 3 years ago. It was a case of a new roof or have a go glueing it myself.
On mine the only edge holding it on was the top, the bottom and sides had all let go.
Did a lot of checking and settled on JB Weld based on a LOT of youtube comparisons etc...
Method is as noted above, suction clamps etc....
I did the sides and bottom first, which then caused the top to pop as well, so did that as well the following week.
Been perfect since, the JB Weld allows a nice neat finish and has held solid so far.
On mine the only edge holding it on was the top, the bottom and sides had all let go.
Did a lot of checking and settled on JB Weld based on a LOT of youtube comparisons etc...
Method is as noted above, suction clamps etc....
I did the sides and bottom first, which then caused the top to pop as well, so did that as well the following week.
Been perfect since, the JB Weld allows a nice neat finish and has held solid so far.
Had this with my old e36 cab about 10 years ago. Plastic screen, stitching went when I was cleaning the roof. None of the trim repair places would touch it, they said the roof needed to come off to repair anyway. Ended up buying a new hood from Car Hood Warehouse in Kingston. They were pretty good but the only issue was they didn't replace the elastic straps (said it "couldn't be done" which is rubbish) so it always needed a helping hand from then on.
Piersman2 said:
Just seen this thread. My XKR rear window came loose in a similar fashion about 3 years ago. It was a case of a new roof or have a go glueing it myself.
On mine the only edge holding it on was the top, the bottom and sides had all let go.
Did a lot of checking and settled on JB Weld based on a LOT of youtube comparisons etc...
Method is as noted above, suction clamps etc....
I did the sides and bottom first, which then caused the top to pop as well, so did that as well the following week.
Been perfect since, the JB Weld allows a nice neat finish and has held solid so far.
Damn - I did see one thing recommending JB Weld but didn't find any others. If you'd posted before I started, I would have used that and I think it would have been better.On mine the only edge holding it on was the top, the bottom and sides had all let go.
Did a lot of checking and settled on JB Weld based on a LOT of youtube comparisons etc...
Method is as noted above, suction clamps etc....
I did the sides and bottom first, which then caused the top to pop as well, so did that as well the following week.
Been perfect since, the JB Weld allows a nice neat finish and has held solid so far.
Still - I think for a little while I'm happy that it will hold, even if it means I can't use the roof. That's not really a particularly big deal since my other car is also a convertible - and the one I'm most likely to use if we go any distance anyway.
The Audi is really just a commuter car (which is 5 mins each way) and shopping - I can live without putting the roof down for that for a bit.
davek_964 said:
Piersman2 said:
Just seen this thread. My XKR rear window came loose in a similar fashion about 3 years ago. It was a case of a new roof or have a go glueing it myself.
On mine the only edge holding it on was the top, the bottom and sides had all let go.
Did a lot of checking and settled on JB Weld based on a LOT of youtube comparisons etc...
Method is as noted above, suction clamps etc....
I did the sides and bottom first, which then caused the top to pop as well, so did that as well the following week.
Been perfect since, the JB Weld allows a nice neat finish and has held solid so far.
Damn - I did see one thing recommending JB Weld but didn't find any others. If you'd posted before I started, I would have used that and I think it would have been better.On mine the only edge holding it on was the top, the bottom and sides had all let go.
Did a lot of checking and settled on JB Weld based on a LOT of youtube comparisons etc...
Method is as noted above, suction clamps etc....
I did the sides and bottom first, which then caused the top to pop as well, so did that as well the following week.
Been perfect since, the JB Weld allows a nice neat finish and has held solid so far.
Still - I think for a little while I'm happy that it will hold, even if it means I can't use the roof. That's not really a particularly big deal since my other car is also a convertible - and the one I'm most likely to use if we go any distance anyway.
The Audi is really just a commuter car (which is 5 mins each way) and shopping - I can live without putting the roof down for that for a bit.
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