Jeep Compass 2.2d 2011 wrong tyres ****ed 4x4
Discussion
Hi Group of lovely people,
Just picked up a jeep with a disconnected 4x4, It is the 70th Anniv Ed and the prop is disconnected and one half shaft missing. Apparently it was run on 235/50 and 225/60 rear thus damaging part or parts of the 4x4. Anyone suggest which parts will need replacing? Seller said I need a new prop, clutch coupling and driveshafts, does that sound right?
Just picked up a jeep with a disconnected 4x4, It is the 70th Anniv Ed and the prop is disconnected and one half shaft missing. Apparently it was run on 235/50 and 225/60 rear thus damaging part or parts of the 4x4. Anyone suggest which parts will need replacing? Seller said I need a new prop, clutch coupling and driveshafts, does that sound right?
I agree with the above poster, you will almost definitely need a new or rebuilt transfer box too. Running different tyre sizes front to rear will always do this in a proper 4x4, where you can't decouple the drive down to 2WD. This is also true if you have large thread depth differences between wheels, so check the tyres for wear level symmetry too before thinking it a fixed problem. I seem to recall the X Type 2.5 and 3.0 ruined their transfer boxes the same way too. All because people love to fiddle with what the factory did.
Thank you for the advice. I have not had 4x4 experience and although I know about the prop, drive shafts & clutch coupling, Ive not come across the transfer box until now and tbh am getting very stuck. I was hoping to find an affordable fix but seem to have found the reason the car was cheap. I was told and stupidly believed that it can run ok as a 2wd but have since found out that is not possible. Already bought 4 new correct tyres so am committed but the car is due to do a 1500mile drive in 3 weeks time.
Can anyone suggest a way of working out the exact bits I will be needing and or if I can somehow run ok as a 2wd?
It is going into a garage this week for a check over but they are going to want to replace the entire 4x4 rear parts and I can't afford that.
Can anyone suggest a way of working out the exact bits I will be needing and or if I can somehow run ok as a 2wd?
It is going into a garage this week for a check over but they are going to want to replace the entire 4x4 rear parts and I can't afford that.
E-bmw said:
I would have thought just transfer box as that will have been the part of the 4 x 4 system that would have been put under unusual stresses, but I am not a 4 x 4 expert.
Hi, a mechanic has stated that because the car has been driven with the differential exposed, that will need replacing too, would you agree?Bill said:
Reading up the Compass's system is "Freedom drive 1" which is a clutch based part time awd system so shouldn't suffer wind up like a proper transfer case.
Yep, it's not the easiest one to find information on, but it seems to be a Mitsubishi-related computer controlled clutch pack to send torque to the rear axle.Seems like the control logic is reasonably sophisticated and shouldn't normally be able to get itself in a mess, but if a constant 4-5% wheel speed difference has been something it's tried to fight, I can see it having done itself a mischief.
Removing the propshaft and one driveshaft feels odd though.
Certainly, if the rear diff has been run with no output shaft on one side (is there oil in it?) it wont have done it any favours.
I'd imagine the most simple solution is replacing everything after the main gearbox with good used components from another one, but tbh maybe buying a non-buggered one would have been better.
gazza285 said:
Sounds like it broke a half shaft. If the transfer box broke, then the half shaft would no longer be under any stress.
And are you sure it was a half shaft, not a front drive shaft?
Freewheeling front hubs for road use are a good idea.
You may want to have a check on what the drivetrain setup is on these.And are you sure it was a half shaft, not a front drive shaft?
Freewheeling front hubs for road use are a good idea.
InitialDave said:
You may want to have a check on what the drivetrain setup is on these.
I did, hence the deletion of my post.Sounds like it has a torque bias type diff, good for accommodating slight speed mismatch, but not for a constant mismatch. I can see no reason for more than one component to have broken, once the weakest link has broken, then there’s nothing to wind up.
This is what I love about these groups, many knowledgeable people and the input is very much appreciated and all goes into the decisions, so thank you all.
I am now not even sure of the difference between a clutch coupling and a traditional Diff to be open, so the car is going to have to be inspected this week before ordering parts.
The fact that I do not have the end of the prop, I assume that was the main part that broke and will have to see what the mechanic finds on top of that. I can get the whole system for about £750 + delivery and fitting, so yes, made a mistake this time around unfortunately.
I will update this chat when I get to the answers
I am now not even sure of the difference between a clutch coupling and a traditional Diff to be open, so the car is going to have to be inspected this week before ordering parts.
The fact that I do not have the end of the prop, I assume that was the main part that broke and will have to see what the mechanic finds on top of that. I can get the whole system for about £750 + delivery and fitting, so yes, made a mistake this time around unfortunately.
I will update this chat when I get to the answers
From chatgpt -
Apologies for any confusion in my earlier responses. Upon reviewing the details of your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD 4x4, it's clear that it utilizes a traditional mechanical rear differential, not an electric clutch coupling.
✅ Rear Differential in Your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD
Your vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission and a mechanical 4x4 system, which includes a rear axle assembly with a conventional differential. This setup is standard for many diesel variants of the Compass from that era.
❌ No Electric Clutch Coupling
The electric clutch coupling (e.g., Mopar part number 3570A007AB) is typically found in models with automatic transmissions and Active Drive or Active Drive Low AWD systems. These systems use an electronically controlled clutch to engage the rear axle when needed. However, your manual transmission model does not incorporate this feature.
🔧 What This Means for You
Maintenance & Repairs: Your rear axle operates like a traditional 4x4 system, so maintenance and repairs will follow standard procedures for mechanical differentials.
Parts Compatibility: When sourcing parts, ensure they are compatible with the mechanical rear differential specific to your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD.
Apologies for any confusion in my earlier responses. Upon reviewing the details of your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD 4x4, it's clear that it utilizes a traditional mechanical rear differential, not an electric clutch coupling.
✅ Rear Differential in Your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD
Your vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission and a mechanical 4x4 system, which includes a rear axle assembly with a conventional differential. This setup is standard for many diesel variants of the Compass from that era.
❌ No Electric Clutch Coupling
The electric clutch coupling (e.g., Mopar part number 3570A007AB) is typically found in models with automatic transmissions and Active Drive or Active Drive Low AWD systems. These systems use an electronically controlled clutch to engage the rear axle when needed. However, your manual transmission model does not incorporate this feature.
🔧 What This Means for You
Maintenance & Repairs: Your rear axle operates like a traditional 4x4 system, so maintenance and repairs will follow standard procedures for mechanical differentials.
Parts Compatibility: When sourcing parts, ensure they are compatible with the mechanical rear differential specific to your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD.
Mikesalem said:
.
I am now not even sure of the difference between a clutch coupling and a traditional Diff to be open, so the car is going to have to be inspected this week before ordering parts.
I think the issue is that, as described, there are a couple of problems with the car, and it's compounded with certain interviewed terminology.I am now not even sure of the difference between a clutch coupling and a traditional Diff to be open, so the car is going to have to be inspected this week before ordering parts.
Many 4wd systems use a centre differential. Power is sent to it and distributed to the front and rear.
Yours does not. It has what is primarily a fwd drivetrain, with a power takeoff pointing to the rear, and a computer controlled clutch system applies the output of that power takeoff to the propshaft for the rear as necessary.
The suspicion is that running different size tyres front and rear have damaged the unit with the clutch system.
At the rear, you described a drivedhaft (from differental to wheel hub) as having been removed, in addition to the propshaft from front to rear having been removed.
This seems bloody odd, but if thats what they've done, there's a couple of ways you can do it. Remove the inner end CV joint from the flange on the diff/from the "pot" for a tripod-style joint, or remove the driveshaft as an entire unit by pulling the splined stub axle out of the differential.
Now, a differential will often be described as "open" to indicate it doesn't have a limited slip or locking function, but in this case, I think your mechanic means they've removed the driveshaft including where its splines go into the differential, and literally left it "open" to the outside environment, possibly without much or any oil in it, and it's contaminated/damaged internally to an unknown degree.
I'd also have a concern about what's gone on at the wheel hub end, as on lots of designs, the end of the driveshaft going through the hub and being fastened on the end with a nut helps keep the "stack" of the wheel bearing and hub together properly.
Basically it sounds like someone has done some very weird things here, though on the positive side, £750 for the stack of all the parts to resolve it doesn't seem crazy.
See how you get on.
Mikesalem said:
From chatgpt -
Apologies for any confusion in my earlier responses. Upon reviewing the details of your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD 4x4, it's clear that it utilizes a traditional mechanical rear differential, not an electric clutch coupling.
I think you may be being given a bad steer by chatGPT here.Apologies for any confusion in my earlier responses. Upon reviewing the details of your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD 4x4, it's clear that it utilizes a traditional mechanical rear differential, not an electric clutch coupling.
The clutch coupling unit for the rear drive is a separate entity from the standard mechanical clutch between the engine and main gearbox.
It is listed as a component for manual transmission models.
Mikesalem said:
From chatgpt -
Apologies for any confusion in my earlier responses. Upon reviewing the details of your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD 4x4, it's clear that it utilizes a traditional mechanical rear differential, not an electric clutch coupling.
? Rear Differential in Your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD
Your vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission and a mechanical 4x4 system, which includes a rear axle assembly with a conventional differential. This setup is standard for many diesel variants of the Compass from that era.
? No Electric Clutch Coupling
The electric clutch coupling (e.g., Mopar part number 3570A007AB) is typically found in models with automatic transmissions and Active Drive or Active Drive Low AWD systems. These systems use an electronically controlled clutch to engage the rear axle when needed. However, your manual transmission model does not incorporate this feature.
? What This Means for You
Maintenance & Repairs: Your rear axle operates like a traditional 4x4 system, so maintenance and repairs will follow standard procedures for mechanical differentials.
Parts Compatibility: When sourcing parts, ensure they are compatible with the mechanical rear differential specific to your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD.
Please stop using this for your answers.Apologies for any confusion in my earlier responses. Upon reviewing the details of your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD 4x4, it's clear that it utilizes a traditional mechanical rear differential, not an electric clutch coupling.
? Rear Differential in Your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD
Your vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission and a mechanical 4x4 system, which includes a rear axle assembly with a conventional differential. This setup is standard for many diesel variants of the Compass from that era.
? No Electric Clutch Coupling
The electric clutch coupling (e.g., Mopar part number 3570A007AB) is typically found in models with automatic transmissions and Active Drive or Active Drive Low AWD systems. These systems use an electronically controlled clutch to engage the rear axle when needed. However, your manual transmission model does not incorporate this feature.
? What This Means for You
Maintenance & Repairs: Your rear axle operates like a traditional 4x4 system, so maintenance and repairs will follow standard procedures for mechanical differentials.
Parts Compatibility: When sourcing parts, ensure they are compatible with the mechanical rear differential specific to your 2011 Jeep Compass 2.2 CRD.
AI. Arbitrarily Incorrect.
InitialDave said:
I think you may be being given a bad steer by chatGPT here.
The clutch coupling unit for the rear drive is a separate entity from the standard mechanical clutch between the engine and main gearbox.
It is listed as a component for manual transmission models.
Okay I think I understand what you have explained. Well enough to know that it has to be down to the mechanic now.The clutch coupling unit for the rear drive is a separate entity from the standard mechanical clutch between the engine and main gearbox.
It is listed as a component for manual transmission models.
See I have no reason to not believe what the seller has said and ultimately they know what happened etc. They have repeated that all I need is a clutch coupling, 1 driveshaft and the prop, Im assuming now that maybe they mean diff not clutch. My mechanic is saying about the same as you.
I will update in a few days, thanks again :-)
Mikesalem said:
InitialDave said:
I think you may be being given a bad steer by chatGPT here.
The clutch coupling unit for the rear drive is a separate entity from the standard mechanical clutch between the engine and main gearbox.
It is listed as a component for manual transmission models.
Okay I think I understand what you have explained. Well enough to know that it has to be down to the mechanic now.The clutch coupling unit for the rear drive is a separate entity from the standard mechanical clutch between the engine and main gearbox.
It is listed as a component for manual transmission models.
See I have no reason to not believe what the seller has said and ultimately they know what happened etc. They have repeated that all I need is a clutch coupling, 1 driveshaft and the prop, Im assuming now that maybe they mean diff not clutch. My mechanic is saying about the same as you.
I will update in a few days, thanks again :-)
Whether that is all that needs replacing and it'll be perfectly happy and functional again, not really possible to say from the other side of a screen.
A fairly reliable metric is that if someone selling a car says "it just needs...", that's probably a lie.
InitialDave said:
They almost certainly mean the clutch coupling that transfers the output via the propshaft.
Whether that is all that needs replacing and it'll be perfectly happy and functional again, not really possible to say from the other side of a screen.
A fairly reliable metric is that if someone selling a car says "it just needs...", that's probably a lie.
I will paste my chat with the seller below -Whether that is all that needs replacing and it'll be perfectly happy and functional again, not really possible to say from the other side of a screen.
A fairly reliable metric is that if someone selling a car says "it just needs...", that's probably a lie.
OK so i need to replace all 4 parts?
Prop
Clutch coupling
2 drive shafts.
But not differential?
Roma
Yes
Roma
one shaft right or left, you have it, I gave it to you
Hi What is the right equipment? You need to buy what I wrote and just install it in place, where it should be, it takes 1.5 hours
Roma sent 4 photos (SHOWN BELOW HOPEFULLY)
Roma
and that's it!
You sent - Will the differential be OK because its open to the elements?
Yes i have the driveshaft
Roma
everything will be ok with it, just change the oil there
You sent
garage said it will need a new differential as it has been left open
Roma
They say whatever is wrong with your garage, they just need to change the oil!
Roma
nothing will happen to it because it does not rotate!!! it is completely disconnected, even if it is open!
You sent
You know more than me, I know cars but not 4x4 stuff.
If I got the parts could you maybe fit them for me as a favour?
Roma
I could, but I don't know when I'll have free time.
You sent
sorry to ask it is just that i need the car for 7th oct to go to spain and am running low on cash
Roma
just buy everything I dropped, take it to any garage nearby, and tell them to change it!! and that's it
Roma
If no one else can help, we'll figure something out!
Roma
Okay?
You sent
ok thank you mate, appreciated.
Will I need both driveshafts? The one you gave me not good?
Roma
I don't remember, did I give you one whole?
You sent PHOTO
Roma
You need just one 1️⃣
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff