Exhaust rattle exhaust broken what's a cheap fix??
Exhaust rattle exhaust broken what's a cheap fix??
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PistonAFC

Original Poster:

152 posts

71 months

Hi,

I took the car into the garage after the exhaust made the blowing sounds and rattled. This is what is the issue:-
Pic 1 : Exhaust broken at the flange (mid to end section of exhaust) and resting on a bit of metal
Pic 2 : Exhaust hanger broke off so it's resting on another bit of metal

What's an easy/cheap fix for these issues? Kwik Fit wanted £300





Edited by PistonAFC on Wednesday 11th March 17:12

_Rodders_

843 posts

42 months

Doing it yourself with pattern parts.

I doubt that can be saved economically.

Jazoli

9,481 posts

273 months

_Rodders_ said:
Doing it yourself with pattern parts.

I doubt that can be saved economically.
Unless you have access to ramp I'd not recommend DIY, exhausts are a pain.

£300 doesn't seem to bad, I bet a local place would be able to do it cheaper with the same parts.

steveo3002

11,052 posts

197 months

shop around a bit , theres no cheapo fix for it

E-bmw

12,215 posts

175 months

Just playing devil's advocate here.

Looking at that picture it is only really going to be sorted out properly by replacing the rusted through parts & £300 may well be the going rate.

Can you get the parts cheaper? Yes.

Can you do it yourself? Yes.

Is it worth the difference, well only you can answer that as I don't know your capabilities.

Just beware, if the car doesn't have long on the MOT you are going to need at least one brake pipe and others may well be in a similar condition.

There is also a lot of what could be significant corrosion there too, may be worth deciding how much the car is worth to you time.


catso

15,859 posts

290 months

_Rodders_ said:
Doing it yourself with pattern parts.

I doubt that can be saved economically.
Hanger could maybe be repaired (amount of rust depending) but that flange is done for, nothing left of it to repair and quite likely whatever it bolts too is also toast.

£300 doesn't sound too bad, obviously DIY could be cheaper but can you DIY?

Megaflow

11,016 posts

248 months

PistonAFC said:
Hi,

I took the car into the garage after the exhaust made the blowing sounds and rattled. This is what is the issue:-
Pic 1 : Exhaust broken at the flange and resting on a bit of metal
Pic 2 : Exhaust hanger broke off so it's resting on another bit of metal

What's an easy/cheap fix for these issues? Kwik Fit wanted £300



The answer is going to depend slightly on which piece is which in the first image, if the part on the right is the middle section and the part on the left is the back box, then you can get away with a new back box, and a replacement bolt on clamp for the mid section, such as this: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/holder-exhaust...

If however, the part on the right is the back box, and the part on the left is the middle section, then you probably need the lot, and £300 is not bad price.

E-bmw

12,215 posts

175 months

I took the first pic to be showing that both sides of the mid/rear flange had rusted away completely, so both will need replacing.

PistonAFC

Original Poster:

152 posts

71 months

Megaflow said:
The answer is going to depend slightly on which piece is which in the first image, if the part on the right is the middle section and the part on the left is the back box, then you can get away with a new back box, and a replacement bolt on clamp for the mid section, such as this: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/holder-exhaust...

If however, the part on the right is the back box, and the part on the left is the middle section, then you probably need the lot, and £300 is not bad price.
See this pic below - hope it clarifies.


I was thinking of asking a mechanic to do something like this to fix the flange:-






E-bmw

12,215 posts

175 months

2 issues with that.

Each end appears to be "flared" to a different diameter at the ends so there may not be enough parallel pipe to do that.

Trying to convince a garage mechanic to do that rather than do the job properly may be harder than you think.

PistonAFC

Original Poster:

152 posts

71 months

E-bmw said:
Just playing devil's advocate here.

Looking at that picture it is only really going to be sorted out properly by replacing the rusted through parts & £300 may well be the going rate.

Can you get the parts cheaper? Yes.

Can you do it yourself? Yes.

Is it worth the difference, well only you can answer that as I don't know your capabilities.

Just beware, if the car doesn't have long on the MOT you are going to need at least one brake pipe and others may well be in a similar condition.

There is also a lot of what could be significant corrosion there too, may be worth deciding how much the car is worth to you time.
The car is a 07 plate Toyota.

Car recently passed MoT in December - I'll give the brake pipes a bit of a wire brush and Waxoyl like I did a few years ago when they looked similar. The corrosion is more surface, car is pretty solid and mechanic only advised on "Front Coil spring mounting corroded but not seriously weakened shocker", he said just wire brush and waxoyl it and it should pass next MoT.

My proposed fix to Pic 1 the broken flange between the end and mid sections is:-



which would save the ORIGINAL exhaust.

My fix for Pic 2 the missing hangar is to wrap a clothes wire hanger around the exhaust and "tie" it into the rubber mount that it still there.

Panamax

8,174 posts

57 months

You could bodge that by sticking a short length of smaller diameter pipe inside the existing pipe to bridge the gap. And the hanger you could bodge with a wire coat-hanger. These would only temporary fixes pending proper replacement.

paul_c123

1,828 posts

16 months

I don't think you could use the repair section in Pic 1 because each end of that exhaust is flared/curved. I think it would leak quite badly and/or not be enough length to get a decent connection. There is a limit to how much exhaust repair paste you can use before it just crumbles up etc.

For pic 2 (the hanger), if you have the broken bit it could be welded really quickly/easily and you don't need a ramp, just lift it a reasonable amount.

finlo

4,206 posts

226 months

paul_c123 said:
I don't think you could use the repair section in Pic 1 because each end of that exhaust is flared/curved. I think it would leak quite badly and/or not be enough length to get a decent connection. There is a limit to how much exhaust repair paste you can use before it just crumbles up etc.

For pic 2 (the hanger), if you have the broken bit it could be welded really quickly/easily and you don't need a ramp, just lift it a reasonable amount.
The hanger is easy with this sort of thing.

paul_c123

1,828 posts

16 months

finlo said:
The hanger is easy with this sort of thing.
That particular one wouldn't work for the OP's situation. The horizontal section which goes into the rubber needs to be still horizontal, but a few inches above the pipe. Whether you can get different ones with different shapes/dimensions so it would work, I don't know. But yes in principle, just tightening a clamp is easier than welding it back, if you can't weld.

finlo

4,206 posts

226 months

paul_c123 said:
finlo said:
The hanger is easy with this sort of thing.
That particular one wouldn't work for the OP's situation. The horizontal section which goes into the rubber needs to be still horizontal, but a few inches above the pipe. Whether you can get different ones with different shapes/dimensions so it would work, I don't know. But yes in principle, just tightening a clamp is easier than welding it back, if you can't weld.
You can get all different types, here's another.