RAV4 Mk1 clutch/flywheel stuck together?
Discussion
I managed to get a 1998 RAV4 started, after being stored for 6 years. However, clutch pedal felt very light and I can’t get it into any gears. There was no problem with the clutch 6 years ago.
Clutch hydraulic fluid level is close to the upper limit indicator, so not missing any fluid.
I’m presuming the clutch and flywheel may have stuck together. Does the very light clutch pedal, also indicate a stuck together clutch/flywheel, or does that point to something else?
Clutch hydraulic fluid level is close to the upper limit indicator, so not missing any fluid.
I’m presuming the clutch and flywheel may have stuck together. Does the very light clutch pedal, also indicate a stuck together clutch/flywheel, or does that point to something else?
Horsey McHorseface said:
I managed to get a 1998 RAV4 started, after being stored for 6 years. However, clutch pedal felt very light and I can t get it into any gears. There was no problem with the clutch 6 years ago.
Clutch hydraulic fluid level is close to the upper limit indicator, so not missing any fluid.
I m presuming the clutch and flywheel may have stuck together. Does the very light clutch pedal, also indicate a stuck together clutch/flywheel, or does that point to something else?
Even if the friction plate is stuck to the flywheel you're still having to actuate the fingers of the pressure plate (which is where the majority of the load on the pedal comes from). The lack of weight suggests you have an issue in the actuation side as opposed to a stuck clutch friction plate.Clutch hydraulic fluid level is close to the upper limit indicator, so not missing any fluid.
I m presuming the clutch and flywheel may have stuck together. Does the very light clutch pedal, also indicate a stuck together clutch/flywheel, or does that point to something else?
A friend of mine used to regularly have a stuck friction plate. He'd start the car in 1st then give it a boot of throttle with the clutch depressed to free it.
Thanks for your replies. I want to correct one thing. The gears wouldn’t go in yesterday, when the engine was running. With the engine switched off, gears go in okay. Having the clutch pedal depressed, seems to make no difference in effort required to change gear.
E-bmw said:
First question would be why was it stood for 6 years?
In what conditions?
Does the slave move with the pedal?
Battery connected wrong way. Because a reverse terminal makeshift battery was tried, not placed in the battery tray and I was sleep deprived. That’s my excuse. I wrongly believed all electrics were toast, plus life getting in the way big time. So just stood outside since, close to a building, so somewhat sheltered. I recently swapped out the main fuse, and everything now works, to my amazement. I will check the slave cylinder later.In what conditions?
Does the slave move with the pedal?
Richard-D said:
Even if the friction plate is stuck to the flywheel you're still having to actuate the fingers of the pressure plate (which is where the majority of the load on the pedal comes from). The lack of weight suggests you have an issue in the actuation side as opposed to a stuck clutch friction plate.
A friend of mine used to regularly have a stuck friction plate. He'd start the car in 1st then give it a boot of throttle with the clutch depressed to free it.
Interesting. It sounds like I need to check the train of hydraulics/connectors, from pedal to clutch. I had read up on how to solve seized clutch/flywheel, by driving it. Limited space here, but there is a long straight cul-de-sac about 50 metres away, if I could manage to get it there.A friend of mine used to regularly have a stuck friction plate. He'd start the car in 1st then give it a boot of throttle with the clutch depressed to free it.
Horsey McHorseface said:
Thanks for your replies. I want to correct one thing. The gears wouldn t go in yesterday, when the engine was running. With the engine switched off, gears go in okay. Having the clutch pedal depressed, seems to make no difference in effort required to change gear.
Had assumed that's what you'd meant but always good to clarify.Richard-D said:
I've just looked online and it appears a '98 RAV4 has an external slave cylinder. It should be glaringly obvious if it's moving if you look on the front of the box whilst an assistant presses the pedal.
Here we go: https://streamable.com/1w60bh I've no way of telling if that's the designed full range of motion. I've asked some other Mk1 RAV4 owners, to see if they can compare. Not heard back yet. Used to get this a lot a few years ago. Various fixes, some more brutal than others, a lot depends on how much room you have.
1st one
Get the engine warm.
Jack rear so both wheels off the deck and chock fronts. Start in 1st gear. Give a few revs and stand on Clutch and brake together. Clutch should realease.
2nd one.
Get the egine warm.
Ensuring clear space at the front and you have brakes!
Start in 1st gear, as it chugs away on the starter it'll move forward, stand on brakes and cutch together. Making the idle faster will help.
3rd One
See if you can access any openings in the bellhousing. With some one pressing the clutch put a screwdriver against the clutch plate and pry loose.
1st or second always worked, I think the record was 25 years standing. Last option is engine and box out and dismantle.
1st one
Get the engine warm.
Jack rear so both wheels off the deck and chock fronts. Start in 1st gear. Give a few revs and stand on Clutch and brake together. Clutch should realease.
2nd one.
Get the egine warm.
Ensuring clear space at the front and you have brakes!
Start in 1st gear, as it chugs away on the starter it'll move forward, stand on brakes and cutch together. Making the idle faster will help.
3rd One
See if you can access any openings in the bellhousing. With some one pressing the clutch put a screwdriver against the clutch plate and pry loose.
1st or second always worked, I think the record was 25 years standing. Last option is engine and box out and dismantle.
Got the clutch gears working
Didn't take any jolting of the transmission either. That's where I thought I was heading, but I thought I might as well bleed the system, seeing how it needed doing anyway, because the fluid was so dark. On about the sixth turn of the bleed nipple, there was suddenly a big squirt of fluid came through, like a blockage had suddenly unblocked. Although fluid had been working it's way out to that point, perfectly fine, no indication there was a blockage. At the same time, the clutch lever got a lot heavier to operate, just like it should be.
Took it for a quick spin up the road. Just wow, such a great driving position, so comfortable. Gears swapping fine, brakes fine, but quite a bit of scraping. That'll be the rust wearing off the rotors. It feels amazing. Don't want to sell it now.
Thanks for all the help.
Didn't take any jolting of the transmission either. That's where I thought I was heading, but I thought I might as well bleed the system, seeing how it needed doing anyway, because the fluid was so dark. On about the sixth turn of the bleed nipple, there was suddenly a big squirt of fluid came through, like a blockage had suddenly unblocked. Although fluid had been working it's way out to that point, perfectly fine, no indication there was a blockage. At the same time, the clutch lever got a lot heavier to operate, just like it should be.Took it for a quick spin up the road. Just wow, such a great driving position, so comfortable. Gears swapping fine, brakes fine, but quite a bit of scraping. That'll be the rust wearing off the rotors. It feels amazing. Don't want to sell it now.
Thanks for all the help.
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


