Which van to convert?
Discussion
I'm looking for a van that's a jack of all trades.
It'll be aL1H2 L2H1 Transit Custom style van with the idea of installing a 2nd row of seats and then a removable bed in the back. The idea being that it can either be a temporary camper, a 2nd family wagon or just a simple van. Ideally it should also be able to tow a trackday car as well.
This one (missing seats aside) is similar to what I'm thinking of http://www.autotrader.co.uk/motorhome-details/2023...
The budget for the van with the modifications is £20k
I've seen a lot of bad things said about Transits and the 'wet belt'. So I've got half an eye on the older 2.2 variant. What else should I be looking at?
Also, what are the pitfalls of doing something like this from an insurance point of view?
It'll be a
This one (missing seats aside) is similar to what I'm thinking of http://www.autotrader.co.uk/motorhome-details/2023...
The budget for the van with the modifications is £20k
I've seen a lot of bad things said about Transits and the 'wet belt'. So I've got half an eye on the older 2.2 variant. What else should I be looking at?
Also, what are the pitfalls of doing something like this from an insurance point of view?
Edited by ThisInJapanese on Friday 22 December 22:52
Edited by ThisInJapanese on Friday 22 December 23:03
Edited by ThisInJapanese on Friday 22 December 23:38
If you go for a H2 model you will struggle with most carparks with height restricted barriers, better off with a pop top.
Transporter will cost you more but will hold it's value better than anything else.
Insurance can be sourced from a number of specialist insurance companies, no issues.
Transporter will cost you more but will hold it's value better than anything else.
Insurance can be sourced from a number of specialist insurance companies, no issues.
Milner993 said:
If you go for a H2 model you will struggle with most carparks with height restricted barriers, better off with a pop top.
Transporter will cost you more but will hold it's value better than anything else.
Insurance can be sourced from a number of specialist insurance companies, no issues.
Sorry. I meant L2H1 not a high top! Have adjusted original post.Transporter will cost you more but will hold it's value better than anything else.
Insurance can be sourced from a number of specialist insurance companies, no issues.
stevemcs said:
Wet belts are around £1400 on the eco blue, yes the 2.2 causes far fewer issues but the newer eco blue is nicer inside. The Transit is wider than the VW which makes a difference when putting a bed inside.
With the wet belt, is it a case of just doing it before it's needed and making sure you budget for it?I have an L1 H1 custom run it for a few years.
Don't be scared into buying a 2.2 in place of a 2.0.
Yes there have been wet belt issues but there have been loads of cracked piston issues with the 2.2.
Remember how many of these vans have been sold hundreds of thousands.
I have spoken to a few fleet managers and some decent Ford techs and the advice has been 10k oil changes and do the belts at 70k not 140 ! Or 5 years .
Basically think of it as a normal Cambelt and you will be fine.
The 2.2 is euro 5 (there are some vary rare 2.2 with adblue) you want a ulez compliant van these days as that situation is going to get worse.
Avoid autos the tow capacity us woeful .
Don't worry about the power output , the 2.0 vans are all identical engine wise with same turbo etc and can be switched between the ford maps using Forscan software in munites so it's a doddle to switch it to 170bhp
If you really want they map well and there are a few good mappers who will put a custom on the rollers and get a solid reliable 210bhp which was the output of the MSRT R spec . The 2.0 panther is capable of 235bhp from ford in certain vehicles ( not the transit )
As for your seating dilemma , I have a bed system on rails from a company called Schneirle in Germany, bed and 3 belted seats and slides up into the regular crew cab position leaving a huge boot area.
I also have another single seat that drops in when we want more seating capacity if you had 3 up front you could easily have 7 flexible seats
Ours is set up as a camper with the world's most comfortable pot top bed , sliding seat bed system etc.
The only thing I will say is 20k for a decent van h1 l2 to the spec you want is a huge stretch and van pricing has been nuts for a while now.
Also keep an eye on the rated weight and try and choose a 310 .
If you want to see any pics or grab more advice feel free to drop me a message
A pic of my van
Don't be scared into buying a 2.2 in place of a 2.0.
Yes there have been wet belt issues but there have been loads of cracked piston issues with the 2.2.
Remember how many of these vans have been sold hundreds of thousands.
I have spoken to a few fleet managers and some decent Ford techs and the advice has been 10k oil changes and do the belts at 70k not 140 ! Or 5 years .
Basically think of it as a normal Cambelt and you will be fine.
The 2.2 is euro 5 (there are some vary rare 2.2 with adblue) you want a ulez compliant van these days as that situation is going to get worse.
Avoid autos the tow capacity us woeful .
Don't worry about the power output , the 2.0 vans are all identical engine wise with same turbo etc and can be switched between the ford maps using Forscan software in munites so it's a doddle to switch it to 170bhp
If you really want they map well and there are a few good mappers who will put a custom on the rollers and get a solid reliable 210bhp which was the output of the MSRT R spec . The 2.0 panther is capable of 235bhp from ford in certain vehicles ( not the transit )
As for your seating dilemma , I have a bed system on rails from a company called Schneirle in Germany, bed and 3 belted seats and slides up into the regular crew cab position leaving a huge boot area.
I also have another single seat that drops in when we want more seating capacity if you had 3 up front you could easily have 7 flexible seats
Ours is set up as a camper with the world's most comfortable pot top bed , sliding seat bed system etc.
The only thing I will say is 20k for a decent van h1 l2 to the spec you want is a huge stretch and van pricing has been nuts for a while now.
Also keep an eye on the rated weight and try and choose a 310 .
If you want to see any pics or grab more advice feel free to drop me a message
A pic of my van
Harv-surrey said:
I have an L1 H1 custom run it for a few years.
Don't be scared into buying a 2.2 in place of a 2.0.
Yes there have been wet belt issues but there have been loads of cracked piston issues with the 2.2.
Remember how many of these vans have been sold hundreds of thousands.
I have spoken to a few fleet managers and some decent Ford techs and the advice has been 10k oil changes and do the belts at 70k not 140 ! Or 5 years .
Basically think of it as a normal Cambelt and you will be fine.
The 2.2 is euro 5 (there are some vary rare 2.2 with adblue) you want a ulez compliant van these days as that situation is going to get worse.
Avoid autos the tow capacity us woeful .
Don't worry about the power output , the 2.0 vans are all identical engine wise with same turbo etc and can be switched between the ford maps using Forscan software in munites so it's a doddle to switch it to 170bhp
If you really want they map well and there are a few good mappers who will put a custom on the rollers and get a solid reliable 210bhp which was the output of the MSRT R spec . The 2.0 panther is capable of 235bhp from ford in certain vehicles ( not the transit )
As for your seating dilemma , I have a bed system on rails from a company called Schneirle in Germany, bed and 3 belted seats and slides up into the regular crew cab position leaving a huge boot area.
I also have another single seat that drops in when we want more seating capacity if you had 3 up front you could easily have 7 flexible seats
Ours is set up as a camper with the world's most comfortable pot top bed , sliding seat bed system etc.
The only thing I will say is 20k for a decent van h1 l2 to the spec you want is a huge stretch and van pricing has been nuts for a while now.
Also keep an eye on the rated weight and try and choose a 310 .
If you want to see any pics or grab more advice feel free to drop me a message
A pic of my van
Thanks, really useful info. I didn't realise the different power outputs was just a mapping. Don't be scared into buying a 2.2 in place of a 2.0.
Yes there have been wet belt issues but there have been loads of cracked piston issues with the 2.2.
Remember how many of these vans have been sold hundreds of thousands.
I have spoken to a few fleet managers and some decent Ford techs and the advice has been 10k oil changes and do the belts at 70k not 140 ! Or 5 years .
Basically think of it as a normal Cambelt and you will be fine.
The 2.2 is euro 5 (there are some vary rare 2.2 with adblue) you want a ulez compliant van these days as that situation is going to get worse.
Avoid autos the tow capacity us woeful .
Don't worry about the power output , the 2.0 vans are all identical engine wise with same turbo etc and can be switched between the ford maps using Forscan software in munites so it's a doddle to switch it to 170bhp
If you really want they map well and there are a few good mappers who will put a custom on the rollers and get a solid reliable 210bhp which was the output of the MSRT R spec . The 2.0 panther is capable of 235bhp from ford in certain vehicles ( not the transit )
As for your seating dilemma , I have a bed system on rails from a company called Schneirle in Germany, bed and 3 belted seats and slides up into the regular crew cab position leaving a huge boot area.
I also have another single seat that drops in when we want more seating capacity if you had 3 up front you could easily have 7 flexible seats
Ours is set up as a camper with the world's most comfortable pot top bed , sliding seat bed system etc.
The only thing I will say is 20k for a decent van h1 l2 to the spec you want is a huge stretch and van pricing has been nuts for a while now.
Also keep an eye on the rated weight and try and choose a 310 .
If you want to see any pics or grab more advice feel free to drop me a message
A pic of my van
I'll drop you a PM re the seating
thisnameistaken said:
Even better, if you’re clever with the space you can fit a full length double transverse across the relay/boxer even with 25mm PIR insulation.
It's very tight if you're over 6ft. I've tried a few out (Boxer/Relay) and I'm 6'2 (1.88). The max width on them (before any insulation or boarding) is 1.87. Given that you don't sleep with your head touching the bed head at home (you'd be slouched down the pillow a bit) and also considering your feet naturally flop down in a relaxed position thus making your overall height longer, there's simply no way you can fit crossways in a stretched out positon. Of course, you don't usually sleep fully stretched out anyway as most people would have their knees bent to some degree, but if you wanted to stretch out in bed, you can't unless you're a girl height.It's quite annoying really as the bed being crossways at the back makes for a perfect storage area underneath for all your leccy bits, batts, bottles, containers and general paraphenalia that you need to cart around.
The Sprinters are even worse at only 1.83/1.84 at window height as the sides slope inwards the higher you go.
r3g said:
It's very tight if you're over 6ft. I've tried a few out (Boxer/Relay) and I'm 6'2 (1.88). The max width on them (before any insulation or boarding) is 1.87. Given that you don't sleep with your head touching the bed head at home (you'd be slouched down the pillow a bit) and also considering your feet naturally flop down in a relaxed position thus making your overall height longer, there's simply no way you can fit crossways in a stretched out positon. Of course, you don't usually sleep fully stretched out anyway as most people would have their knees bent to some degree, but if you wanted to stretch out in bed, you can't unless you're a girl height.
It's quite annoying really as the bed being crossways at the back makes for a perfect storage area underneath for all your leccy bits, batts, bottles, containers and general paraphenalia that you need to cart around.
The Sprinters are even worse at only 1.83/1.84 at window height as the sides slope inwards the higher you go.
Fitting side flares (commonly done) would overcome this.It's quite annoying really as the bed being crossways at the back makes for a perfect storage area underneath for all your leccy bits, batts, bottles, containers and general paraphenalia that you need to cart around.
The Sprinters are even worse at only 1.83/1.84 at window height as the sides slope inwards the higher you go.
mr pg said:
r3g said:
It's very tight if you're over 6ft. I've tried a few out (Boxer/Relay) and I'm 6'2 (1.88). The max width on them (before any insulation or boarding) is 1.87. Given that you don't sleep with your head touching the bed head at home (you'd be slouched down the pillow a bit) and also considering your feet naturally flop down in a relaxed position thus making your overall height longer, there's simply no way you can fit crossways in a stretched out positon. Of course, you don't usually sleep fully stretched out anyway as most people would have their knees bent to some degree, but if you wanted to stretch out in bed, you can't unless you're a girl height.
It's quite annoying really as the bed being crossways at the back makes for a perfect storage area underneath for all your leccy bits, batts, bottles, containers and general paraphenalia that you need to cart around.
The Sprinters are even worse at only 1.83/1.84 at window height as the sides slope inwards the higher you go.
Fitting side flares (commonly done) would overcome this.It's quite annoying really as the bed being crossways at the back makes for a perfect storage area underneath for all your leccy bits, batts, bottles, containers and general paraphenalia that you need to cart around.
The Sprinters are even worse at only 1.83/1.84 at window height as the sides slope inwards the higher you go.
Mine's raised enough for my bikes to fit underneath and the bed at the widest part of the body. I use the van at altitude in the alps after long days climbing or riding so the insulation or the bed was something I wasn't going to compromise on. I used 50mm PIR in most of the van and only had to go down to 25mm PIR insulation at the head and foot of the bed. I made a wooden frame between the structural members so sitting up in bed doesn't stress the skin of the van away from the members its glued to. I have a vapour barrier and 5.5mm ply to cover it as the wooden frame is plenty strong enough it doesn't deflect when you lean on it. That gave me 1911mm head to tail and a double is 1900mm. Buying the mattress from dreams and trying to fit it into the van in the car park was a stress!
I'm a little over 6'3" (1920mm) and fit fine but do tend to not sleep bolt straight. I also built in extensions fore and aft so if we want we can make the sleeping space a super king and then either lie transversely or longitudinally. It just depends on how we're planning on using the van. The extra bits of mattress double as cushions for the seating area so we can choose which we fancy.
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