Campervan to Outer Hebrides
Discussion
Myself and better half plus dog are wanting to visit the Outer Hebrides. We are thinking of September when the summer rush should be over or at least reduced?
I'd quite like to just get up and do it. But the question is, can you do this? Do you have to book ferries and campsites a long way in advance? Can you just turn up and get on a ferry? Same for a campervan - bool up at a campsite?
If this is not a good idea, I'll have to start planning!
Thanks in advance.
I'd quite like to just get up and do it. But the question is, can you do this? Do you have to book ferries and campsites a long way in advance? Can you just turn up and get on a ferry? Same for a campervan - bool up at a campsite?
If this is not a good idea, I'll have to start planning!
Thanks in advance.
I've not travelled ot the Outer Hebrides, but most proper campsites I've used have needed booking in advance. Likewise when I've taken the motorhome across from Harwich to Holland, I've had to book some time in advance, but a camper rather than a motorhome may get away with booking closer to the crossing date.
I would book well in advance. September is still in the season.
Scotland shuts tourism wise on October 1st -March 31st
Calmac are unreliable at best. The boats breakdown alot. All it will take is 1 storm and no boat sailing for several days.
Remember that God is still in charge on a Sunday. Tesco only recently opened on Sundays for instance. Most other places are not open.
Scotland shuts tourism wise on October 1st -March 31st
Calmac are unreliable at best. The boats breakdown alot. All it will take is 1 storm and no boat sailing for several days.
Remember that God is still in charge on a Sunday. Tesco only recently opened on Sundays for instance. Most other places are not open.
We went in 2021, was still sort of semi-lockdown and Calmac were running ferries but with reduced passenger numbers to reduce mixing of people. Do book your tickets well in advance though things get booked up and you might find you can complete 75% of the trip you want but not be able to get a final crossing to or from somewhere.
We didn't book much in the way of formal campsites, we found that a combination of wild stops (in sensible places) and unmanned but voluntary contribution campgrounds were fine.
Take plenty of durable food with you as outside of Stornaway, 'big' supermarkets are non-existant, but there are smaller co-op stores dotted about. Same for fuel - petrol stations are few, far between and not always open. Also, as per other's comments, almost nothing is open on a Sunday.
We had an amazing time though, the beaches are unreal. The campsite overlooking Husinis beach is an absolute must, even if it's 13 miles down a dead end road!
We didn't book much in the way of formal campsites, we found that a combination of wild stops (in sensible places) and unmanned but voluntary contribution campgrounds were fine.
Take plenty of durable food with you as outside of Stornaway, 'big' supermarkets are non-existant, but there are smaller co-op stores dotted about. Same for fuel - petrol stations are few, far between and not always open. Also, as per other's comments, almost nothing is open on a Sunday.
We had an amazing time though, the beaches are unreal. The campsite overlooking Husinis beach is an absolute must, even if it's 13 miles down a dead end road!
We went last 2 weeks of August 2022 - Ferry from Ullapool to Stornaway then worked our way down to Barra and got the ferry back to Oban.
As others have said - it's recommended to book ferries as they can fill up, although the ferries we got between the islands themselves were less busy.
Campsites - we did a mix of campsites and car parks/permitted park ups. We didn't book any of these in advance and didn't struggle to find anywhere.
Sundays - Harris/Lewis were closed. Someone mentioned that it's frowned upon to hang washing out. Barra was a bit more relaxed - the campsite owner was laughing about how weird the people further North were.
Some random highlights from memory.. (if I remember more I'll edit them in).
Uncles Croft campsite on Lewis
The Edge Cafe on Lewis (the only place that we could find that was open for food on a Sunday - was like someone's house, turned up, another family sat down and the owner asked what we all wanted to eat. No menu, but she did suggest it would be easier if we all asked for the same thing so she didn't have to cook different things!)
"Camping Spots" on Seilebost beach - these are managed by the West Harris Trust and are just on the beach: https://www.westharristrust.org/campinginwestharri...
Balranald campsite - right behind a really nice beach (water was of course absolutely freezing)
Wavecrest campsite on Barra - nice site, and has a pizza place (run out of someones back garden, may or may not be open) nearby.
Planes landing on Barra Beach (check the timetables as there's not many!)
Cafe Kisimul on Barra - really good Indian restaurant.
As others have said - it's recommended to book ferries as they can fill up, although the ferries we got between the islands themselves were less busy.
Campsites - we did a mix of campsites and car parks/permitted park ups. We didn't book any of these in advance and didn't struggle to find anywhere.
Sundays - Harris/Lewis were closed. Someone mentioned that it's frowned upon to hang washing out. Barra was a bit more relaxed - the campsite owner was laughing about how weird the people further North were.
Some random highlights from memory.. (if I remember more I'll edit them in).
Uncles Croft campsite on Lewis
The Edge Cafe on Lewis (the only place that we could find that was open for food on a Sunday - was like someone's house, turned up, another family sat down and the owner asked what we all wanted to eat. No menu, but she did suggest it would be easier if we all asked for the same thing so she didn't have to cook different things!)
"Camping Spots" on Seilebost beach - these are managed by the West Harris Trust and are just on the beach: https://www.westharristrust.org/campinginwestharri...
Balranald campsite - right behind a really nice beach (water was of course absolutely freezing)
Wavecrest campsite on Barra - nice site, and has a pizza place (run out of someones back garden, may or may not be open) nearby.
Planes landing on Barra Beach (check the timetables as there's not many!)
Cafe Kisimul on Barra - really good Indian restaurant.
Calmac are not as unreliable as others suggest.
Definitely book ferries. As a camper you will be the one who gets to wait if it's full.
I personally suggest book campsites as well, as there are few places left to pull up by the roadside as too many others have 'wild camped' and upset locals and other visitors. You're putting money into a local economy that needs it.
The other trick is to go the opposite way to most visitors - go on at Lewis and travel south to Barra.
Take your time, find local walks, speak to campsite owners and locals in the pub about the quiet places, away from the instabanger crowd.
Enjoy, they are wonderful places.
Definitely book ferries. As a camper you will be the one who gets to wait if it's full.
I personally suggest book campsites as well, as there are few places left to pull up by the roadside as too many others have 'wild camped' and upset locals and other visitors. You're putting money into a local economy that needs it.
The other trick is to go the opposite way to most visitors - go on at Lewis and travel south to Barra.
Take your time, find local walks, speak to campsite owners and locals in the pub about the quiet places, away from the instabanger crowd.
Enjoy, they are wonderful places.
Hello Rumbles
Book the ferry out from Oban to Barra, in September there will be plenty space, and in the unlikely event of a cancellation due to weather there’s a few roadside areas near oban you can park up for the night at , after all your in a camper van!, the ferry usually leaves for barra around 1pm , be at the ferry terminal 45mins before hand, Oban is a good stopping point anyway, Plenty of bars and places to eat in the evening all within walking distance , the journey out to barra will take around five hours taking in some cracking views through the sound of Mull,
I would recommend buying a hopscotch ticket, this books the ferry out from Oban to, then the next ferry from Barra to Erisky , and once through the Uists (Erisky - south Uist - benbecula - north Uist are all connected by causeway ) get the next ferry from north Uist to Harris then upwards through Harris and Lewis , to leave Lewis get the ferry at Stornaway to Ullapool ( less than 3 hours).
https://www.calmac.co.uk/en-gb/#/
If the weather is good itll be amazing
Give it a google and don't think to much about it , then island don’t close on a Sunday, absolutely do fill the fuel tank before heading on the ferry as fuel in the islands is dear.
Im biased as I work for certain ferry company and sometimes work on the Barra route and have plenty Barra family, I maybe there when you come over, by all means if i can help just get in touch.
Book the ferry out from Oban to Barra, in September there will be plenty space, and in the unlikely event of a cancellation due to weather there’s a few roadside areas near oban you can park up for the night at , after all your in a camper van!, the ferry usually leaves for barra around 1pm , be at the ferry terminal 45mins before hand, Oban is a good stopping point anyway, Plenty of bars and places to eat in the evening all within walking distance , the journey out to barra will take around five hours taking in some cracking views through the sound of Mull,
I would recommend buying a hopscotch ticket, this books the ferry out from Oban to, then the next ferry from Barra to Erisky , and once through the Uists (Erisky - south Uist - benbecula - north Uist are all connected by causeway ) get the next ferry from north Uist to Harris then upwards through Harris and Lewis , to leave Lewis get the ferry at Stornaway to Ullapool ( less than 3 hours).
https://www.calmac.co.uk/en-gb/#/
If the weather is good itll be amazing
Give it a google and don't think to much about it , then island don’t close on a Sunday, absolutely do fill the fuel tank before heading on the ferry as fuel in the islands is dear.
Im biased as I work for certain ferry company and sometimes work on the Barra route and have plenty Barra family, I maybe there when you come over, by all means if i can help just get in touch.
Wow thanks everyone for the replies. A lot for me to digest and those photos from @PedroB are exactly what I hope to experience (of course I realise I may get horizontal rain and ferries awash with puke!)
I'd like to take everything at a relaxed pace so the first plan is to take a stopover on the mainland for a couple of days before taking the ferry either Oban to Barra or alternatively Uig To Tarbert or even Ullapool to Stornoway!
Probably need to do some route planning and pull together some "must sees". One odd one is a pilgrimage to the home of the Stornoway Black Pudding Macleod & Macleod's Butchers in Stornoway!
I'd like to take everything at a relaxed pace so the first plan is to take a stopover on the mainland for a couple of days before taking the ferry either Oban to Barra or alternatively Uig To Tarbert or even Ullapool to Stornoway!
Probably need to do some route planning and pull together some "must sees". One odd one is a pilgrimage to the home of the Stornoway Black Pudding Macleod & Macleod's Butchers in Stornoway!
Rumblestripe said:
Wow thanks everyone for the replies. A lot for me to digest and those photos from @PedroB are exactly what I hope to experience (of course I realise I may get horizontal rain and ferries awash with puke!)
I'd like to take everything at a relaxed pace so the first plan is to take a stopover on the mainland for a couple of days before taking the ferry either Oban to Barra or alternatively Uig To Tarbert or even Ullapool to Stornoway!
Probably need to do some route planning and pull together some "must sees". One odd one is a pilgrimage to the home of the Stornoway Black Pudding Macleod & Macleod's Butchers in Stornoway!
Just a thought on the order of the islands - Barra felt the quietest (to us at least) and Lewis felt the 'busiest' (This is all relative, they are all quiet in reality!). Think we were glad that we did Lewis to Barra rather than the other way round.I'd like to take everything at a relaxed pace so the first plan is to take a stopover on the mainland for a couple of days before taking the ferry either Oban to Barra or alternatively Uig To Tarbert or even Ullapool to Stornoway!
Probably need to do some route planning and pull together some "must sees". One odd one is a pilgrimage to the home of the Stornoway Black Pudding Macleod & Macleod's Butchers in Stornoway!
Also - we found Ullapool to be much nicer than Oban which seemed to have a few too many tourist tat shops. We got to Oban after 3 days on Barra and decided to escape as soon as possible.
If you do go from Ullapool and like seafood then give this place a go: https://www.seafoodshack.co.uk/
I'll add an edit.. take some cash - There are honesty boxes dotted around the islands which have nice cakes etc, and also some of the campsites had showers which took £1 coins.
Edited by badgerade on Wednesday 23 April 17:42
Rumblestripe said:
I'd like to take everything at a relaxed pace so the first plan is to take a stopover on the mainland for a couple of days before taking the ferry either Oban to Barra or alternatively Uig To Tarbert or even Ullapool to Stornoway!
Probably need to do some route planning and pull together some "must sees". One odd one is a pilgrimage to the home of the Stornoway Black Pudding Macleod & Macleod's Butchers in Stornoway!
Do Ullapool - Stornoway - and stop in the NW around Ullapool on the way. So much to see on the way out to Ullapool.Probably need to do some route planning and pull together some "must sees". One odd one is a pilgrimage to the home of the Stornoway Black Pudding Macleod & Macleod's Butchers in Stornoway!
Also add:
- The museum at Stornoway Castle is worth your time.
- There are multiple standing stone sites at Callanish, and it can be worth NOT going to the main stones as you have 5 coach loads of people there, whereas a km you have a similar site to yourself....Get the map of them.
- Out west on Harris & Lewis are the best beaches IMO.
- The walk out to Eilean Glas Lighthouse on Scalpay is a real highlight - and often has a pop up cafe by the local trust fighting to save the place. Both times I have been there have been porpoise fishing the tidal current, and I saw three other people in total on two trips..
- Stay at Blackisto Blackhouse campsite on Harris. Rather unique and hippy, but great live entertainment through the season.
- I really liked the Scandinavian Bakery, Boat Museum and Art Gallery on Grimsay.
- A pint and an evening at The Politician at Eriskay was a great evening....
- I have stayed twice at Borve Camping & Caravan Site on Barra - and both times had Corncrakes running around the loo building....and the BEST sunset view on the island.
- Indian restaurant on Barra (book it) is a great way to end a trip!
-
These guys are doing it now. They are pretty organised/experienced and share the detail. Check out their videos:
https://youtu.be/U3mMkzCgFEw?si=E1NrBBdGsWayzNIb
https://youtu.be/U3mMkzCgFEw?si=E1NrBBdGsWayzNIb
badgerade said:
If you do go from Ullapool and like seafood then give this place a go: https://www.seafoodshack.co.uk/
Would absolutely second this!PedroB said:
badgerade said:
If you do go from Ullapool and like seafood then give this place a go: https://www.seafoodshack.co.uk/
Would absolutely second this!Just a point for a bit of clarification.
Booking ferries, how far in advance should I look to book? The day before? A week?
I think campsites should be OK as long as I book them a day or two in advance? But are there some that are worth or require booking well in advance due to popularity and/or size?
Thanks again to everyone who has chipped in.
Booking ferries, how far in advance should I look to book? The day before? A week?
I think campsites should be OK as long as I book them a day or two in advance? But are there some that are worth or require booking well in advance due to popularity and/or size?
Thanks again to everyone who has chipped in.
PedroB said:
badgerade said:
If you do go from Ullapool and like seafood then give this place a go: https://www.seafoodshack.co.uk/
Would absolutely second this!I’d book ferries, but only because we like to plan. Our ferries in June were stacked.
As for the islands, I can’t wait to go back.
Wildlife:
Watch out for the dolphins surfing the bow wave on the ferry. They entertained us for the whole crossing there and back from Ullapool to Stornaway. Also head to Port Ness. As a landscape, it’s ok, quite bleak, but great for whale watching
At the south eastern tip of Harris we saw hundreds of small jellyfish in the small ‘harbour’ opposite Flodday island. Had never seen a jellyfish until then.
The beaches are as sublime as everyone else has said.
There is also a short walk to an eagle hide - north Harris eagle observatory - worth the walk, if you have lots of patience though.
A trip of a lifetime for us!
As for the islands, I can’t wait to go back.
Wildlife:
Watch out for the dolphins surfing the bow wave on the ferry. They entertained us for the whole crossing there and back from Ullapool to Stornaway. Also head to Port Ness. As a landscape, it’s ok, quite bleak, but great for whale watching
At the south eastern tip of Harris we saw hundreds of small jellyfish in the small ‘harbour’ opposite Flodday island. Had never seen a jellyfish until then.
The beaches are as sublime as everyone else has said.
There is also a short walk to an eagle hide - north Harris eagle observatory - worth the walk, if you have lots of patience though.
A trip of a lifetime for us!
Outer Hebrides are amazing!
When we went 3 or 4 years ago, the Ullapool <> Stornoway and Oban <> Castlebay ferries really had to be booked in advance as they did fill up in peak times, although we had hotels to book, so were less flexible than a campervan. We also did Stornoway down to Barra which I think was the best way to do it.
Highlights for us were the gins - Kinrara distillery nr Aviemore on the way up/down, Seven Crofts in Ullapool, Harris Gin distillery, Downpour and finally the Barra gin. Had to get a bottle in each!
And the cycling - I took my road bike and cycled Stornoway to Leverburgh via Seilebost beach (the whole ride was stunning), a smaller run on the Uists, and around Barra taking in Vatersay as well, which was hilly but beautiful - managed to time it to see a plane landing on the beach which was pretty cool.
Can also second the recommendations for Cafe Kisimul and the Seafood Shack. Both were excellent. There aren't a huge amount of options for eating out, so we found smaller and more popular places could have limited availability. Ardmhor coffee on Barra was great as well for coffee and cakes.
When we went 3 or 4 years ago, the Ullapool <> Stornoway and Oban <> Castlebay ferries really had to be booked in advance as they did fill up in peak times, although we had hotels to book, so were less flexible than a campervan. We also did Stornoway down to Barra which I think was the best way to do it.
Highlights for us were the gins - Kinrara distillery nr Aviemore on the way up/down, Seven Crofts in Ullapool, Harris Gin distillery, Downpour and finally the Barra gin. Had to get a bottle in each!
And the cycling - I took my road bike and cycled Stornoway to Leverburgh via Seilebost beach (the whole ride was stunning), a smaller run on the Uists, and around Barra taking in Vatersay as well, which was hilly but beautiful - managed to time it to see a plane landing on the beach which was pretty cool.
Can also second the recommendations for Cafe Kisimul and the Seafood Shack. Both were excellent. There aren't a huge amount of options for eating out, so we found smaller and more popular places could have limited availability. Ardmhor coffee on Barra was great as well for coffee and cakes.
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