Fuel additives (NON-CAT ONLY)
Discussion
Has anyone experience of using TetraBOOST fuel additive??
I intend to run the MoJo on a mixture of Optimax and Tetraboost soon and wonder if anyone else has used it before?
yours-MoJo.
www.glennbroadway.com/tetraboost/
I intend to run the MoJo on a mixture of Optimax and Tetraboost soon and wonder if anyone else has used it before?
yours-MoJo.
www.glennbroadway.com/tetraboost/
Having been somewhat involved in classic cars I have been following this unleaded/additives thing since before leaded was withdrawn from sale. If I had a car which was not designed for unleaded I would use unleaded anyway, and not worry about it. If I thought high-engine loads were likely then some engine work would be the thing
John
John
Have to disagree with John above, as I would never dream of running my TR (1957 TR3A) on straight unleaded, it could do too much damage. Granted, it all depends on the number of miles you do, and the stress put on the engine. But if you want to be able to rev the engine to its designed limits, or drive more than a few hundred miles a year, then you should use an additive or have the head re-machined and hardened valve-seats put in.
There is evidence that if you switch to unleaded on an engine that has done tens of thousands of miles on leaded, or run on it alone for many years, then you will be okay, as the valves and seats absorb the lead into their surfaces and will continue to lubricate themselves as it were.
My father runs many pre-war cars on unleaded with no conversion or additive, but only because they cover so little mileage and are never stressed. I use Millers VSP and Optimax (formerly super) in the TR, and will do so in the MGBGT I have just bought.
I would get the head sorted if I could afford it but at about £800 for the TR head alone, I can't at the moment. The average cost for fitting hardened valve-seats is about £500 according to the latest MGOC mag, but can be done cheaper DIY.
Perhaps most importantly for you is the fact that leaded petrol is still available, and always will be. It is not being removed with LRP, as EU legislations allows for about 4% of petrol sold to be leaded 4star. It's not cheap, and its quite hard to find, but if you look on the net you can find sites that list where it is available.
Best thing to do would be to figure out the cost per litre of different fuels with whatever additive you prefer and compare this to the cost of a head-job.
If at any time you need the top end of the engine stripped then I would use it as an excuse to fit hardened valve-seats, but only then.
Oh, and to answer your question, no, haven't used that stuff. Sorry.
John.
There is evidence that if you switch to unleaded on an engine that has done tens of thousands of miles on leaded, or run on it alone for many years, then you will be okay, as the valves and seats absorb the lead into their surfaces and will continue to lubricate themselves as it were.
My father runs many pre-war cars on unleaded with no conversion or additive, but only because they cover so little mileage and are never stressed. I use Millers VSP and Optimax (formerly super) in the TR, and will do so in the MGBGT I have just bought.
I would get the head sorted if I could afford it but at about £800 for the TR head alone, I can't at the moment. The average cost for fitting hardened valve-seats is about £500 according to the latest MGOC mag, but can be done cheaper DIY.
Perhaps most importantly for you is the fact that leaded petrol is still available, and always will be. It is not being removed with LRP, as EU legislations allows for about 4% of petrol sold to be leaded 4star. It's not cheap, and its quite hard to find, but if you look on the net you can find sites that list where it is available.
Best thing to do would be to figure out the cost per litre of different fuels with whatever additive you prefer and compare this to the cost of a head-job.
If at any time you need the top end of the engine stripped then I would use it as an excuse to fit hardened valve-seats, but only then.
Oh, and to answer your question, no, haven't used that stuff. Sorry.
John.
A couple of interesting replies.
I have moved away from ******* additives on advice from a engine builder-as I have posted before there seems to be a chemical reaction between different additive packages that attacks the o rings/seals between the carbs and inlet manifold, (wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself).
However the basic fact is that petrol sold today (with the possible exception of some sul/optimax)is CRAP!
Is this why some subaru and evo owners are removing their cats and running with TetraBOOST whilst returning ign/ecu setting to "std"?
Whilst the problem of valve seat erosion (on older machines)can be "cured" by modification you are still left with a low octane fuel that leaves you running your engine away from it's optimum settings.
I don't know all the answers but am willing to give it a try.
I plan to use this additive and compare the results the only way feasible really, down the 1/4 mile.
Yours,
MoJo.
I have moved away from ******* additives on advice from a engine builder-as I have posted before there seems to be a chemical reaction between different additive packages that attacks the o rings/seals between the carbs and inlet manifold, (wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself).
However the basic fact is that petrol sold today (with the possible exception of some sul/optimax)is CRAP!
Is this why some subaru and evo owners are removing their cats and running with TetraBOOST whilst returning ign/ecu setting to "std"?
Whilst the problem of valve seat erosion (on older machines)can be "cured" by modification you are still left with a low octane fuel that leaves you running your engine away from it's optimum settings.
I don't know all the answers but am willing to give it a try.
I plan to use this additive and compare the results the only way feasible really, down the 1/4 mile.
Yours,
MoJo.
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