Lining the garage walls
Discussion
Following on from the 'help me find something to put on the garage floor thread' (thanks guys) - here is the 'what to line the walls with' thread....
My garage is of timber construction - timber studs with a tongue and grove cladding outside. The inside of the cladding is coated in a sort of tarred paper, presumably to reduce moisture ingress.
I want to line the interior walls and put some insulation behind whatever I clad them with, for a number of reasons:
- improved insulation - should slow the temperature changes more and help reduce the risk of condensation (I also intend to line the roof)
- flush walls will be easier to fit shelving to (at the moment I have things dropping down the back of shelves due to the gap created by the studs standing proud
- I can paint the cladded walls white, which will greatly increase the amount of light in the garage. I can't paint the existing tar paper stuff.
- I can run cables behind the cladding and install a couple of extra power sockets
- it will look a lot better
- I quite enjoy doing this kind of stuff!
The question is, what to line them with?
I initially thought just thin hardboard, which has a smooth finish for painting.
I then thought I might do the hardboard on the ceiling, but use plasterboard on the walls - the stuff with the damp proof foil backing. The plaster board has the advantage of being more substantial, so I can hang more tools etc from it...
Both are quite cheap - but is one a better bet than the other and are there other alternatives I should consider?
So many projects, so little time.......
My garage is of timber construction - timber studs with a tongue and grove cladding outside. The inside of the cladding is coated in a sort of tarred paper, presumably to reduce moisture ingress.
I want to line the interior walls and put some insulation behind whatever I clad them with, for a number of reasons:
- improved insulation - should slow the temperature changes more and help reduce the risk of condensation (I also intend to line the roof)
- flush walls will be easier to fit shelving to (at the moment I have things dropping down the back of shelves due to the gap created by the studs standing proud
- I can paint the cladded walls white, which will greatly increase the amount of light in the garage. I can't paint the existing tar paper stuff.
- I can run cables behind the cladding and install a couple of extra power sockets
- it will look a lot better
- I quite enjoy doing this kind of stuff!
The question is, what to line them with?
I initially thought just thin hardboard, which has a smooth finish for painting.
I then thought I might do the hardboard on the ceiling, but use plasterboard on the walls - the stuff with the damp proof foil backing. The plaster board has the advantage of being more substantial, so I can hang more tools etc from it...
Both are quite cheap - but is one a better bet than the other and are there other alternatives I should consider?
So many projects, so little time.......
I think plasterboard is too heavy for the roof. Are there any lightr alternatives that won't warp?
Oooh!! I almost forgot. This project will require an enormous amount of nailing. One handed nailing - especially on the ceiling.
Then lots of painting (clearly spraying is the way to go).
You see where this is leading....
...that's right
... I'll need a power nailer and a proper spray gun...
...hmm, I'll need a new toy - an air compressor and attachments!!
You can never have too many toys in my opinion
Oooh!! I almost forgot. This project will require an enormous amount of nailing. One handed nailing - especially on the ceiling.
Then lots of painting (clearly spraying is the way to go).
You see where this is leading....
...that's right
... I'll need a power nailer and a proper spray gun...
...hmm, I'll need a new toy - an air compressor and attachments!!
You can never have too many toys in my opinion
griff2be said: I think plasterboard is too heavy for the roof. Are there any lightr alternatives that won't warp?
Oooh!! I almost forgot. This project will require an enormous amount of nailing. One handed nailing - especially on the ceiling.
You can never have too many toys in my opinion
Nail It
thats the old fashioned way 
You screw it nowadays
dry lining screws available in all good DIY stores. 
for the ceiling/roof 4mm ply available from wickes at about £6 a sheet, give it a liberal coating of uni-bond and water mix to seal it and stop it warping. Plaster board will work for the ceiling, you'll need 50-60 cm centres for the joists though, also plasterbords screws rather than nails are easier, but more expensive and time consuming. It is possible to do it with one person (8'*4' boards) but a right pain, much easier with 2 or 3 people
Also make sure you get tapered boards, much easier to joint afterwards
Also make sure you get tapered boards, much easier to joint afterwards
My oak barn has shiplap cladding, then old building paper (the tarry stuff in your building), then fibrefill insulation (like loft insulation but in fairly stiff batts), then TYVEK building paper stapled to the frame, then WPB plywood painted white. This keeps the building warm and dry (dry enough for the dehumidifier to only switch itself on on a really wet day)without sealing in the frame which would cause it to rot. The roof is not clad internally, but thin WPB would seem a safe bet.
You can hire a Paslode nailer for about £40 a day. Gas powered, as seen on Changing Rooms, great fun !
You can hire a Paslode nailer for about £40 a day. Gas powered, as seen on Changing Rooms, great fun !
jondokic said: My oak barn has shiplap cladding, then old building paper (the tarry stuff in your building), then fibrefill insulation (like loft insulation but in fairly stiff batts), then TYVEK building paper stapled to the frame, then WPB plywood painted white. This keeps the building warm and dry (dry enough for the dehumidifier to only switch itself on on a really wet day)without sealing in the frame which would cause it to rot. The roof is not clad internally, but thin WPB would seem a safe bet.
You can hire a Paslode nailer for about £40 a day. Gas powered, as seen on Changing Rooms, great fun !
WPB plywood? I know what OSB is, but not WPB?! Water proofed board?
What does the TYVEK paper do?
Presumably if I leave a small gap at the top and bottom for ventilation the the frame should be ok?
CarZee said:umm.. you're a snail then??
Agent006 said: I think plasterboard is what we've got at various points in our house (shell).
or do you mean you live in a petrol station.. ?
>> Edited by CarZee (moderator) on Monday 10th February 14:54
Nope, 'fraid not. We're still having the house rebuilt, so there's not much of it at the moment. I can stand in the Kitchen and look up through the holes in the roof.
WPB plywood? I know what OSB is, but not WPB?! Water proofed board?
Got it in one.
What does the TYVEK paper do?
It provides a waterproof, breathable barrier, so the cladding and frame will not rot, but water and wind will not get through.
Presumably if I leave a small gap at the top and bottom for ventilation the the frame should be ok?
Not necessary if you use a breathable building paper (like Tyvek).
Electric or air nailers are dependent on an electricity supply whereas Paslode nailers use gas. A Paslode framing nailer will also drive a 65 mil framer nail into oak, not something a £40 nailer will manage. They're quite a lot OTT for a job like this, but fun nonetheless
Then lots of painting (clearly spraying is the way to go).
Actually I know a faster way, which should give a perfectly even coat with no effort:
Place paint in a bag with a firecracker (the big ****ers that are illegal over here in blighty) and fire it off - should give an even coat in a highly amusing manner. Just make sure you mask off anything you don't want painted really well
Disclaimer - Even I'm not crazy enought to have tried this (yet), but I really want to know what would happen...
Fatboy said:
Then lots of painting (clearly spraying is the way to go).
Actually I know a faster way, which should give a perfectly even coat with no effort:
Place paint in a bag with a firecracker (the big ****ers that are illegal over here in blighty) and fire it off - should give an even coat in a highly amusing manner. Just make sure you mask off anything you don't want painted really well
Disclaimer - Even I'm not crazy enought to have tried this (yet), but I really want to know what would happen...
Wasn't there an episode of Mr Bean with this very method?
I have done the very same thing and converted a piece of garage into an office. As I run a fire proofing company the materials came quite cheaply. The rockwool batts come in 600mm and 900mm wide and can be quite easily cut to shape. Fill all the gaps in between existing studs and then staple fix visqueen over the top. Fix the plaster board using dry wall screws. You can use boards for the ceiling too.
There are also harder boards you can use, but these are specialist fire protection ones and are quite dear. I used Glasroc as it was left over from a job.
Tape or plaster fill joints, and paint.
These do the full range of drywall/plasterboards.
www.knauf.co.uk
There are also harder boards you can use, but these are specialist fire protection ones and are quite dear. I used Glasroc as it was left over from a job.
Tape or plaster fill joints, and paint.
These do the full range of drywall/plasterboards.
www.knauf.co.uk
Gassing Station | General Gassing [Archive] | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff