Scrap or fit a new engine - Alfa 156
Discussion
So, after writing my beloved T5 off last week ( http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/8775/img0040edi... ), I've been looking for a new car.
Found a beauty, good price too. £1000 for a W-reg Alfa 156, 130k odd miles, pretty much full service history, every stamp in the book up till the last one.
Anyway, to cut a long story short, the car is perfect in pretty much every way, sounding lovely on the test drive, so I pay a deposit and bring the rest of the cash round the next day. Take it home, absolutely brilliant. Chuffed.
Oh no though, I did less than 50 miles in the car (and 50 easy miles too - look at the state of that Volvo, you can tell from that alone I wouldn't have been driving ANY car like a dick after a crash like that) and the big end has gone (I'm no mechanic, far from it, but a friend is and he's pretty certain this is what's wrong - taking it to a garage tomorrow to be 100% sure).
So now I'm left with a car that can't be driven, £1000 out of pocket, and just wondering what my options are?
Unfortunately, it was a private sale, and I politely asked the woman if she'd take the car back and give me my money back, and she promptly told me to go f
k myself, insisting there was nothing wrong with it when she sold it.
I'm going to ask the mechanic if he can see any recent spanner marks or any indication that the engine has been opened up, but I realise responsibility lies with me in proving she knew there was a problem with the car before she sold it to me. There's nothing in the description on autotrader I can get her with either.
Now I'm wondering, would it be more sensible to cut my losses and sell it for spares and just find something else cheap that'll make do, or would it be better to find a refurb engine and have it fitted? I mean, those 50 miles I did in the car were wonderful, it was a joy to drive. It was tight, everything worked (all the electronics and everything), clutch felt almost new, just a really pleasant car to drive.
Just wondering rough cost of fitting an engine, and rough cost of an engine itself? It's the 1.6 T-spark in there at the moment, was also wondering whether it has to be a 1.6 that goes back in, and if I might find a cheaper engine (mechanic friend said something about VW engines fitting in Alfas?).
Sorry, lot of questions I know, any help greatly appreciated.
Found a beauty, good price too. £1000 for a W-reg Alfa 156, 130k odd miles, pretty much full service history, every stamp in the book up till the last one.
Anyway, to cut a long story short, the car is perfect in pretty much every way, sounding lovely on the test drive, so I pay a deposit and bring the rest of the cash round the next day. Take it home, absolutely brilliant. Chuffed.
Oh no though, I did less than 50 miles in the car (and 50 easy miles too - look at the state of that Volvo, you can tell from that alone I wouldn't have been driving ANY car like a dick after a crash like that) and the big end has gone (I'm no mechanic, far from it, but a friend is and he's pretty certain this is what's wrong - taking it to a garage tomorrow to be 100% sure).
So now I'm left with a car that can't be driven, £1000 out of pocket, and just wondering what my options are?
Unfortunately, it was a private sale, and I politely asked the woman if she'd take the car back and give me my money back, and she promptly told me to go f
k myself, insisting there was nothing wrong with it when she sold it.I'm going to ask the mechanic if he can see any recent spanner marks or any indication that the engine has been opened up, but I realise responsibility lies with me in proving she knew there was a problem with the car before she sold it to me. There's nothing in the description on autotrader I can get her with either.
Now I'm wondering, would it be more sensible to cut my losses and sell it for spares and just find something else cheap that'll make do, or would it be better to find a refurb engine and have it fitted? I mean, those 50 miles I did in the car were wonderful, it was a joy to drive. It was tight, everything worked (all the electronics and everything), clutch felt almost new, just a really pleasant car to drive.
Just wondering rough cost of fitting an engine, and rough cost of an engine itself? It's the 1.6 T-spark in there at the moment, was also wondering whether it has to be a 1.6 that goes back in, and if I might find a cheaper engine (mechanic friend said something about VW engines fitting in Alfas?).
Sorry, lot of questions I know, any help greatly appreciated.
"Spanner marks" 
The thing is, sometimes cars just break. You can buy a 70k japanese car that snaps a cambelt ten miles after you bought it, or you can buy a 180k mile shonker that lasts forever. I'm certain the seller didn't know there was anything wrong with the car, and even if they did I doubt they knew it was anything serious.
IMO, you took a risk buying a high mileage Alfa. I guess you live and learn. It also sounds (from very little information in your original post) that you don't actually know a lot about spannering yourself... If I were you, I'd go out and buy myself a nice little Honda or Toyota. But I'm not you, so I'd probably attempt the engine swap myself. I'd definitely save money in the long run doing that, however of course the 'new' second hand engine carries no guarantee either...
Buying second hand cars privately is a risk. Simple as that really.
The thing is, sometimes cars just break. You can buy a 70k japanese car that snaps a cambelt ten miles after you bought it, or you can buy a 180k mile shonker that lasts forever. I'm certain the seller didn't know there was anything wrong with the car, and even if they did I doubt they knew it was anything serious.
IMO, you took a risk buying a high mileage Alfa. I guess you live and learn. It also sounds (from very little information in your original post) that you don't actually know a lot about spannering yourself... If I were you, I'd go out and buy myself a nice little Honda or Toyota. But I'm not you, so I'd probably attempt the engine swap myself. I'd definitely save money in the long run doing that, however of course the 'new' second hand engine carries no guarantee either...
Buying second hand cars privately is a risk. Simple as that really.
Yodafone said:
Your Volvo looks bad, did you get hurt, what happened?
Flipped it, was pretty bad, but it's a Volvo, so I walked away with a gash on my head that stopped bleeding before the paramedics arrived (though it COVERED me in blood) and a bit of whip lash.Ironically, I went into hospital to have my head glued to prevent infection and to get prodded by the doctor ... and I leave hospital 2 hours later ... with a throat infection.
Last time I go to hospital for something which isn't imminently fatal. Haha.
But yeah, just greasy roads, back end went out, oncoming traffic, figured trees were better than other cars, took out 3 in the process, flipped the volvo, left the rear bumper wedged in a tree higher than my head (I'm tall too), and stopped from 60, 65 absolute tops in about 30yds.
When they scrapped it (Well, before it was stolen, but that's another story all together!) they said there wasn't a single panel without damage. I did pretty good. I'd definitely recommend buying a Volvo to anyone considering it. I f
king loved that thing. Ahh well.chrisr29 said:
How do you know it's the big end, what are the symptoms?
Really really loud knocking. I don't, and everyone else is right, I know fk all about cars, but as I said a mechanic took a quick look (in the dark with a torch without getting underneath the car) and he's pretty certain it's the big end.Even if she knew there was a problem with the car, there is not a lot you can do in a private sale situation. I would expect that there was a problem she knew about - its rare for big ends to go completely without warning, and for them to last only 50 gentle miles is a bit strange.
Something like a cambelt is more likely to go without too much warning, but big end failure normally has warning lights and noises first! Is the oil pressure light connected? Just a thought!
Something like a cambelt is more likely to go without too much warning, but big end failure normally has warning lights and noises first! Is the oil pressure light connected? Just a thought!
Dragoncaviar said:
Yodafone said:
Your Volvo looks bad, did you get hurt, what happened?
Flipped it, was pretty bad, but it's a Volvo, so I walked away with a gash on my head that stopped bleeding before the paramedics arrived (though it COVERED me in blood) and a bit of whip lash.Ironically, I went into hospital to have my head glued to prevent infection and to get prodded by the doctor ... and I leave hospital 2 hours later ... with a throat infection.
Last time I go to hospital for something which isn't imminently fatal. Haha.
But yeah, just greasy roads, back end went out, oncoming traffic, figured trees were better than other cars, took out 3 in the process, flipped the volvo, left the rear bumper wedged in a tree higher than my head (I'm tall too), and stopped from 60, 65 absolute tops in about 30yds.
When they scrapped it (Well, before it was stolen, but that's another story all together!) they said there wasn't a single panel without damage. I did pretty good. I'd definitely recommend buying a Volvo to anyone considering it. I f
king loved that thing. Ahh well.Impressive protection from the old bus there, well done.
Dragoncaviar said:
chrisr29 said:
How do you know it's the big end, what are the symptoms?
Really really loud knocking. I don't, and everyone else is right, I know fk all about cars, but as I said a mechanic took a quick look (in the dark with a torch without getting underneath the car) and he's pretty certain it's the big end.chrisr29 said:
Dragoncaviar said:
chrisr29 said:
How do you know it's the big end, what are the symptoms?
Really really loud knocking. I don't, and everyone else is right, I know fk all about cars, but as I said a mechanic took a quick look (in the dark with a torch without getting underneath the car) and he's pretty certain it's the big end.Checked oil, tiny bit milky in the cap, not at all milky on the dip stick, and the level is fine.
RB26DETT said:
Just get another engine and swap it in.
Did it in a 1.4 Zetec Puma lask week-end.
Engine cost £300.
I don't have an engine winch, or know the first thing about cars really. This is where my issue is - everything I do is going to cost me.Did it in a 1.4 Zetec Puma lask week-end.
Engine cost £300.
If I had an engine winch, and knew how to fit an engine, knew how much to pay for an engine, knew what to look for in an engine, would I really be asking, or would I be fitting an engine?
Scratch that, if I knew what to look for, I probably wouldn't have bought a f
ked Alfa.Edited by Dragoncaviar on Saturday 10th April 01:04
Dragoncaviar said:
RB26DETT said:
Just get another engine and swap it in.
Did it in a 1.4 Zetec Puma lask week-end.
Engine cost £300.
I don't have an engine winch, or know the first thing about cars really. This is where my issue is - everything I do is going to cost me.Did it in a 1.4 Zetec Puma lask week-end.
Engine cost £300.
If I had an engine winch, and knew how to fit an engine, knew how much to pay for an engine, knew what to look for in an engine, would I really be asking, or would I be fitting an engine?
Scratch that, if I knew what to look for, I probably wouldn't have bought a f
ked Alfa.Edited by Dragoncaviar on Saturday 10th April 01:04
And just don't go to a garage if possible because you will more than likely get rapped unless its a backstreet garage.
ETA : Just seen the Volvo :O . How did that happen ?
Edited by RB26DETT on Saturday 10th April 01:10
Dragoncaviar said:
chrisr29 said:
Dragoncaviar said:
chrisr29 said:
How do you know it's the big end, what are the symptoms?
Really really loud knocking. I don't, and everyone else is right, I know fk all about cars, but as I said a mechanic took a quick look (in the dark with a torch without getting underneath the car) and he's pretty certain it's the big end.Checked oil, tiny bit milky in the cap, not at all milky on the dip stick, and the level is fine.
Dragoncaviar said:
But yeah, just greasy roads, back end went out
Do you think the rear end stepping out was related to having the spare wheel on the rear in place of the proper one? I span a Saab 9000 many years ago whilst left-foot braking whilst suffering a rear wheel slow puncture...Dragoncaviar said:
chrisr29 said:
Dragoncaviar said:
chrisr29 said:
How do you know it's the big end, what are the symptoms?
Really really loud knocking. I don't, and everyone else is right, I know fk all about cars, but as I said a mechanic took a quick look (in the dark with a torch without getting underneath the car) and he's pretty certain it's the big end.Checked oil, tiny bit milky in the cap, not at all milky on the dip stick, and the level is fine.
Spoke to a guy who has fitted loads of these as bottom end failure is VERY common, the fan boys say it has been run low on oil but this happened to my m8 twice and he loves that car more than his Mrs(& checks the oil before every journey). The problem with a second hand lump is the same problem happening again(as the cars stuck in his garage prove). I guess that is your only choice.
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