removing hub nut?
Author
Discussion

matt 2LT

Original Poster:

4,509 posts

213 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
im breaking a 92 sierra for my kit car.

now i stupidly removed the brakes, and cut the brake hoses/handbrake cables, before removing the hub nut.

so ive got a wheel on one side, which has a brick wedged so it cann't move, and is in gear.

ive applied loads of wd40 and plus gas, ive heated it up for about 5 mins with a blow torch, lump hammer with a ratchet, and my huge breaker bar, but all that happens is the drive shaft turns slightly in the diff.

also its the passenger side, that is a left hand thread that im having problems with.

so any suggestions

cheers

Superhoop

4,913 posts

223 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
Have you still got wheel studs on the hub?

If you have, put a lever bar across two of them to prevent the hub turning, and lever away with the breaker bar.

Also, are you 100% sure that it's a left hand thread?

Eggman

1,253 posts

241 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
Try removing the wheel and positioning an axle stand under one of the wheel studs to prevent the wheel turning.

MX7

7,902 posts

204 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
If it's going to be scrapped, could you push it against a wall to stop it moving?

Also, put a long metal tube over the breaker bar.

Edited by MX7 on Saturday 3rd July 11:46

Buzz word

2,028 posts

239 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
Pretty sure they are opposite thread iirc there are white and green locking bands to signify the differnet nuts. Also i'm pretty sure the torque to do them up is about 200nm so they are on pretty hard. I tried this job once off the car and couldnt to it even with an air gun. Maybe refit the wheel and drop it until the wheel touches the floor and thisk the socket in the wheel center. probably be easier once you have cracked it. Then back in the air.

Edited by Buzz word on Saturday 3rd July 11:57

Rich_W

12,548 posts

242 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
"If" the disc is vented. Stick a large screwdriver in the vents to lock it.

matt 2LT

Original Poster:

4,509 posts

213 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
cheers, ive just tryed putting a metal bar between a stud and the floor, then jumping on the breaker bar, and it now seems to be lifting the car off the ground. yikes

im now thinking about removing it all off the car and taking it to a garage and see if there air gun will remove it, but im guessing it will just spin, as there will be nothing to stop it spinning.

or if its possible to split the nut? but its a 41mm nut, so won't be easy?

lost in espace

6,608 posts

237 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
Have you tried heating it?

matt 2LT

Original Poster:

4,509 posts

213 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
there off woohoo

extendable wheel wrench bar, between 2 studs, and onto the chassis, jump ontop of breaker bar, and they came off pretty easy.

cheers

Mroad

829 posts

245 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
Drill then chisel the nut to weaken. The only option I had in the last one I did after everything else failed, it was torqued to 275Nm though.

Editted to say Congrats, have a beer!

Edited by Mroad on Saturday 3rd July 12:23

Eggman

1,253 posts

241 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
matt 2LT said:
cheers, ive just tryed putting a metal bar between a stud and the floor, then jumping on the breaker bar, and it now seems to be lifting the car off the ground. yikes
You could try giving the nut a few sharp taps end-on with a BIG hammer and then having another go with the breaker bar. Also, try tightening it a bit before you go to loosen it.

(Presumably it's recessed so you can't get at it with a grinder? Otherwise you could grind the side off and then open it up very slightly with a sharp chisel before undoing it. On the subject of chisels, if you have a nice sharp one you could try tapping it round with a club hammer, but then you're getting into territory where the nut starts getting damaged)

ETA: Well done! I should type quicker.

Edited by Eggman on Saturday 3rd July 12:36

Petemate

1,674 posts

221 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
I know you have got them undone now but have to add my 2 pennorth (for the sake of anyone else with the same problem) Among my bits 'n' pieces in the workshop are 1) a 2 ft long piece of 2" dia steel tubing; 2) an old Britool 'break-back' type torque wrench salvaged from my days in the RAF 30 yrs ago - it was scapped as the spring had failed, and I took the mechanism off the side and welded the whole end up and boy is it strong, obviously able to cope with both hands of thread and 3) a long strong old drive shaft that sits between the studs of any hub or bolts as nec. The Sierra hubs which I dismantled when I built my Robin Hood were torqued up deffo to the recommended figure as it took all my strength with the afore-mentioned items but the nuts gave in eventually!!

WhoseGeneration

4,090 posts

237 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
Old motorcyle fork tubes make good "all else failed" extension bars.
Sometimes added to my breaker bar.

lost in espace

6,608 posts

237 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
Just to add I tightend the nuts on my mpv with a broken torque wrench locked solid as the standard wheel wrench seemed a bit naff. The garage said I had managed to achieve about 500lb/ft and needed a borrowed truck air gun to shiftgetmecoat

WhoseGeneration

4,090 posts

237 months

Saturday 3rd July 2010
quotequote all
lost in espace said:
Just to add I tightend the nuts on my mpv with a broken torque wrench locked solid as the standard wheel wrench seemed a bit naff. The garage said I had managed to achieve about 500lb/ft and needed a borrowed truck air gun to shiftgetmecoat
Are you talking wheel nuts or bolts?
If so, I hope the garage fitted new ones.