Any turbo/mappers/fueling experts around here.
Discussion
I recently slapped a GT2871RS turbo on my Elise 2zz-fe engine. The engine in it is a newly built low compression job (less than 150 miles on it), the turbo is only running 5psi at the moment. The map is not ideal for the car but its good enough to run it in (I think). However I have now noticed that the car stalls all the time on idle when cold and if you put your foot down (again when cold) it just stalls and dies and you get a lovely smell of petrol. Once the car is up to temp or has a bit of heat in it, it still runs a bit rich but it doesn't stall.
I don't want to cause any damage to a rather expensive engine but should I get it mapped properly, get the boost turned right up and drive with a lighter right foot or will it be ok to run as it is for a few more 100 miles?
I don't want to cause any damage to a rather expensive engine but should I get it mapped properly, get the boost turned right up and drive with a lighter right foot or will it be ok to run as it is for a few more 100 miles?
Dave_ST220 said:
Bore wash? Get it mapped now IMO!
Id get it running properly asap may not be overfuelling enough to cause borewash but could well be diluting the oil enough to cause issues,plus should you glaze the bores of your recently fresh engine the only way to sort it would be a strip again.... for the price of a mapping session compared to the potential damage its a no brainer ..... and again wheres the fun in driving a potentially good car when its running crap .Dave_ST220 said:
Bore wash? Get it mapped now IMO!
+1If you don't have a wideband oxygen sensor on the car then you don't want to be driving it as you have zero idea what is going on fuelling wise.
A good mapper will be able to set you up with run in map, you can then take it back to him to be properly mapped once your engine is run in.
This really is a critical time in your engines life and bore wash is something you want to avoid at all costs as the rings will be bedding in right now, throwing in loads of fuel will compromise this process.
You want a good map in there during run in so you can safely load up the engine at low revs to get the rings bedded in proeprly.
I have some experience in mapping(my last car had a programmable ECU) and to my amateur ears it sounds like the cold start fuelling correction is way out.
ps Sounds like it'll be mental when done!
Edited by Marf on Friday 30th July 12:38
I suspect the lower CR will have significantly reduced low speed torque( <1000rpm) as the burn rate will be right down, also, the larger combustion area will affect the transient fuelling, with a greater volume of fuel "hung up" in the crevice volumes. It probably means the engine will require a greater idle airflow and almost certainly a more advanced ignition angle (to compensate for the slow burn) at idle, and possibly a great cold fuel multiplier. Bascially, as others have said, get it mapped ASAP before you break it...... ;-)
Yeah I went for the disco potato as it seemed to meet my needs very well. Doesn't make the power that the engine and gearbox can handle (E154 box) but it seems very drivable. I did ponder on getting a GT3583R which could easily push the car over 500bhp but it would be very very laggy I think.
Hopefully when it does run full boost it should hit about 350 - 370bhp.
Hopefully when it does run full boost it should hit about 350 - 370bhp.
Edited by Mr Darcy on Friday 30th July 15:41
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