Servicing - its that time
Discussion
my pug206 is now over a 1000 miles due for its service so think i need to do something about it. Thank god its french and not german otherwise i would now be trying to post from ze cooler. Anyway i want to give it a full service because its not been running 100% for a while and does sound like i have a bag of spanners being thrown around under the bonnet. My trouble is ive misplaced my service book so i dont know what needs doing. So i would be very grateful if anybody could tell me what work i need to do to give it a full service.
Thanks (:
P.s sorry for the crap formatting, on the phone and had no sleep yet and ive been in bed for 6 hours
Thanks (:
P.s sorry for the crap formatting, on the phone and had no sleep yet and ive been in bed for 6 hours
Its currently on 87000 miles. I didnt get much in the way of service history with the car the last looking like it was done at a seat dealership where the owner i purchased it from obtained it. That was at 56000. So even though it may not be due a full service now its having one. As for the cambelt ive got nothing that says its been changed so thats going to be done as well.
since its a little on the shady side in terms of what has and has not been done on the service I would spend out on the whole lot. It will cost a lot more but it will give you much more peace of mind.
Brake fluid, gearbox fluid, oil change, cam belt, ancilary(sp?) belt and all the filters.
It might be worth just having a look at the power steering fluid and double check its not just water in the cooling system too.
Brake fluid, gearbox fluid, oil change, cam belt, ancilary(sp?) belt and all the filters.
It might be worth just having a look at the power steering fluid and double check its not just water in the cooling system too.
I did mine around a year before I sold it.
Here's a list of what I did:
- Clutch change (circumstantial, not essential).
- Front brake discs & pads
- Spark plugs
- Oil change
- Oil filter change
- Air filter reconditioned
- Engine flush
- Reconditioned injectors
I think that was it.
For the most part, it was piss-easy.
Oil change is the easiest part, along with engine flush. Get a small bottle of engine flush and run the engine at a fast idle (roughly 2,000rpm) for 15 mins. Undo sump plug and let the car wet itself into a large container.
Oil filter was located near the exhaust manifold, if memory serves correctly. Make sure you get the one that has the return filter. I used a Fram one. Big black circular thing.
Air filter was a Simota CF induction kit, so I reconditioned it myself.
Spark plugs were a very easy change. You need to remove the coil pack, which is held in with 10mm bolts, potentially the fuel rail (it has been a while).
Brakes were easy too, always worth doing.
Most of it you can do with a T20 hex head, a 10mm spanner, a T30/35 for the brakes... pretty much a Meccano car...
http://www.206info.co.uk/Forums/
I was registered there for ages... they may be able to help. I did mine with a Hayne's manual.
Here's a list of what I did:
- Clutch change (circumstantial, not essential).
- Front brake discs & pads
- Spark plugs
- Oil change
- Oil filter change
- Air filter reconditioned
- Engine flush
- Reconditioned injectors
I think that was it.
For the most part, it was piss-easy.
Oil change is the easiest part, along with engine flush. Get a small bottle of engine flush and run the engine at a fast idle (roughly 2,000rpm) for 15 mins. Undo sump plug and let the car wet itself into a large container.
Oil filter was located near the exhaust manifold, if memory serves correctly. Make sure you get the one that has the return filter. I used a Fram one. Big black circular thing.
Air filter was a Simota CF induction kit, so I reconditioned it myself.
Spark plugs were a very easy change. You need to remove the coil pack, which is held in with 10mm bolts, potentially the fuel rail (it has been a while).
Brakes were easy too, always worth doing.
Most of it you can do with a T20 hex head, a 10mm spanner, a T30/35 for the brakes... pretty much a Meccano car...
http://www.206info.co.uk/Forums/
I was registered there for ages... they may be able to help. I did mine with a Hayne's manual.
Edited by sc4589 on Tuesday 10th August 19:32
sc4589 said:
Spark plugs were a very easy change. You need to remove the coil pack, which is held in with 10mm bolts, potentially the fuel rail (it has been a while).
Everthing this man said. I have learnt to take the little metal clip from the accelerator wire just above the coil pack befor you remove it though as you always end up ripping this clip out as you take out the coil pack out. Depending on where you are doing it, its very easy to lose.
They are only about 80p from the dealers but its the inconienience as the pedal goes flat to the floor so is not drivable unless fixed or bodged. (I used cable ties but the pedal was very "loose")
The Oil filter is a little plastic hexagon shape which you use as the bolt to put the socket over. Right next to the manifold. I would get the bucket under here as you undo the filtercovering as the filter comes off topways and sits in a puddle of oil so drips as soon as you take the cover off.
Haynes manuals are very cheap off Ebay

ymwoods said:
sc4589 said:
Spark plugs were a very easy change. You need to remove the coil pack, which is held in with 10mm bolts, potentially the fuel rail (it has been a while).
Everthing this man said. I have learnt to take the little metal clip from the accelerator wire just above the coil pack befor you remove it though as you always end up ripping this clip out as you take out the coil pack out. Depending on where you are doing it, its very easy to lose.
They are only about 80p from the dealers but its the inconienience as the pedal goes flat to the floor so is not drivable unless fixed or bodged. (I used cable ties but the pedal was very "loose")
The Oil filter is a little plastic hexagon shape which you use as the bolt to put the socket over. Right next to the manifold. I would get the bucket under here as you undo the filtercovering as the filter comes off topways and sits in a puddle of oil so drips as soon as you take the cover off.
Haynes manuals are very cheap off Ebay


Good to know even after a year of not servicing it I can remember what has to be done to it...
If you do have to take the fuel rail out you either need to treat it with kid glove and keep it facing the right way, or gently pour off the petrol into a small Coke bottle (remove the Coke first!
). Pop it by the fuel line first, then once that's finishing weeing everywhere, put the fuel rail's contents in there.Edited by sc4589 on Wednesday 11th August 10:27
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