Clutch bleeding help!

[Crumple Zon3s]

Right then, bought myself a civic 1.8 vti on friday, all was good although i forgot to check one thing on inspection. clutch fluid :S

So driving today and i go to change gear and its hard as hell to put it into gear. scratch my head and think, hmm whats the fluid like.

Pop the bonnet have a look and oh dear, its sucking in air.

So I went home and bled the clutch using a one man bleed kit. had a friend pump the clutch whilst i looked out for air bubbles and fluid level. So level is good and theres no air coming out so i go for a drive but its still doing it. Have a play with the clutch pedal and theres an inch of dead zone at the top where there is NO resistance. It does spring back to the top of the pedal but it doesnt move anything. So im going to bleed it again tomorrow.

Anyone got any tips?? I'm probably going to go for the traditional approach of get helper to depress pedal, open bleed nipple, close bleed nipple, slowly lift clutch pedal to the top and then pump a few times, check level and repeat.

However a few site and people have mentioned other methods

1: attach clear pipe to an aready open bleed nipple, place pipe in container of clean fluid and pump the pedal a fair few times, depress clutch fully and hold, close nipple, check fluid level and lift pedal slowly..

2: Suck out ALL fluid from reservoir, fill syringe with fluid, attach to open nipple on slave cylinder. push through fluid until no more bubbles emerge in the reservoir, close nipple, top up fluid and pump a few times, repeat as neccessary until a good feel is achieved.

Any other methods people would suggest?

I was also thinking i might do it like i would bleed an avid juicy MTB brake.

basically the same as method two, but then you bung the hole that lets the fluid in in the reservoir, then attach a syringe half full of fluid to the bleed nipple, open bleed nipple, pull the syringe plunger back to create negative pressure in the lines and watch for bubbles being drawn out, then slowly release the syringe plunger so the negative pressure draws in new fluid and repeat untill all air bubbles are removed.

That last method worked REALLY well of the avid brakes on my MTB and the theory seems sound so i see no reason why it wouldnt work.

Anyway, all advice welcome

Thanks

CZ

[Crumple Zon3s]

anyone?

[GavinPearson]

I am a big fan of the Gunson's Easy bleed. Try that.

[SLCZ3]

Take it back to the garage and get them to do it, under fit for purpose rule!!!!!

[netherfield]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

and if it was empty it's probably got a leak which needs fixing.

[Athlon]

Clutches are awkward to bleed as the slave can travel as far as the pedal pushes it (brakes stop when the pads touch the disc etc)

Reverse bleeding with the syringe might work although an air bubble can get trapped in the slave depending on where the inlet pipe is in relation to the nipple.
The other way is to stop the slave pushing out, I am not certain with the Civics set up but you need to put a wedge behind the throw out arm or clamp the slave closed really.

Good luck

Edit for not yet awake type spelling of which I am sure I have still missed some...

Edited by Athlon on Tuesday 17th August 07:24

[chris1roll]

Pull back the rubber boot on the slave cylinder - if there is any fluid under it then the cylinder is knackered and needs replacing. (or at least the seals do but the cylinders are so cheap)
If it looks OK, then persist with the bleeding for a bit longer (try the reverse bleeding with a syringe as another poster suggested.)
If you still can't get it right then you might be looking at a clutch master cylinder - one of the seals might be worn or reversed.
Get the dealer to fix it. If you bought it from one.

Just a thought - its not one of those new fangled concentric slave cylinders is it?

Edited by chris1roll on Tuesday 17th August 08:22

[Fish981]

It's got a leak, you'll need to fix that first before worrying about bleeding.

[maniac0796]

I wouldn't worry about that inch of freeplay, most cars will have an inch or two. Stops your release bearing being in constant contact with your diaphragm springs, and therefore wearing the clutch.

[Matt_N]

The slave cylinder has more than likely got a leak.