help changing wheel bearings?

[matt 2LT]

ive taken them apat and removed he actual bearings, and the carrier now looks like ths:


but ive got a race along with the bearing, now do i need to remove the race from the carrier? or can i just re-use the old race that is currently attatched to the carrier and use the new bearing?

it looks like this:


cheers for any help on this

[Bill]

Just carefully drift it out with a punch (or screwdiver) and hammer.

[matt 2LT]

ok, so its not a good idea to re-use it?

i did give it a whack with a screwdriver and hammer but it didn't move at all.

ill try it with a punch later, and se if that gets it.

[TonyRPH]

It's not a good idea to re-use it.

You may have to get it pressed out with a hydraulic press.

Just be careful you don't damage the carrier, trying to drift it out.

Could also try a little heat - I've heard of people putting them in an oven, in the absence of a gas torch...

[MadRob6]

What car is it? If it's a popular model you can probably find a guide online that'll guide you in the right direction. You could probably also take the part to a garage and get the race changed for you with the correct tools then carry on as you were.

[munroman]

I also put the race in the freezer for a few hours, it all helps to make fitting easier.

[kev b]

If you are going to use a punch be sure to use eye protection.

[Fastra]

TonyRPH said:

It's not a good idea to re-use it.

You may have to get it pressed out with a hydraulic press.

Just be careful you don't damage the carrier, trying to drift it out.

Could also try a little heat - I've heard of people putting them in an oven, in the absence of a gas torch...

Oven = Yes!

Microwave = No!

Edited by Fastra on Friday 27th August 15:43

[S. Gonzales Esq.]

And if you fit the new one back in using a punch or a drift, make sure it's softer than the part it's hitting.

[andym1603]

Hi,
The races should punch out no bother. They have to come from the inside out if you know what I mean. To press the new races in use the old one as a drift and lightly hammer the new one in hitting around the old race to make sure it goes in squarely. The tone of the hammer will change when the race is fully home. Remember to pack the new bearings with multi purpose grease and use a new split pin if one is used to hold the hub nut.
Hope this is of help.
Andy..

[matt 2LT]

cheers, i will have another go at this in the morning.

i do actually have a "race driver" set that i bought for this, so putting them back in shouldn't be too much trouble, its getting them out.

also the hubs are off a sierra, but will be going onto my 7


and i realised earlier the front bearings ive been sent must be the wrong ones, as they seem to be the same extenal size, but the middle hole is too big, so is not a tight fit on the shaft.

[matt 2LT]

ive got them out, they actually came out quite easily, and have put the new ones in, greased and fitted bearings, and pushed the hub through them.

one question though, how tight a fitting should the shaft be on the hub through the bearings?

as it just seemed a litle too easy to go on, i was expecting to spend a good couple of minuets hammering it on, but it went in after just a couple of knocks with a hammer.

i know they are not going to come off once the D/S is in and hub nut done up, but was expecting them to be a tighter fit.

[Mazda Baiter]

They should be like that. It is only. A thou or so clearance. They will only be tight if there is crap between the surfaces or things have got hot and the bearing has welded itself to the shaft.

As long as it is not a sloppy fit you will be fine.

[matt 2LT]

cheers, ive put the D/s into it now, to stop durt getting into it Etc, and did the ub nut up slightly, and it seems nice and solid now, although it is a litle bit stiff to rotate.

i take it, it will loosen up slightly once its been driven a bit?

[TonyRPH]

matt 2LT said:

cheers, ive put the D/s into it now, to stop durt getting into it Etc, and did the ub nut up slightly, and it seems nice and solid now, although it is a litle bit stiff to rotate.

i take it, it will loosen up slightly once its been driven a bit?

As this is a tapered bearing, there should be a torque setting to preload the bearing.

Check the specs for the car.

ETA: If it's stiff to rotate then you have too much preload - i.e. it's too tight!

Edited by TonyRPH on Saturday 28th August 17:36

[matt 2LT]

well i only did it up a bit, with a small ratchet. the haynes manual says it should be around 300NM so it will need to be a lot tighter.

but i will need to take the D/S back out to fit it to the car, i only attatched it to stop dirt getting in.