106 gti, running daily and as a track car, any experiences?
Discussion
I had one for over 5 years, and tracked it several times. It was excellent - reliable too except for a cambelt problem which I suspect was due to a botched belt change given it happened soon after.
As with any road car, brakes aren't up to sustained track use but the usual braided hoses and better fluid helps. Bigger discs and new calipers from the 206 can be fitted, or 306 items if you go up to 15" wheels.
The rear suspension is torsion beam, imagine a round bar fixed at one end and twisted from the other end. The cheap way of lowering is to take it all apart, and put the beam back in a spline or two further around. It'll sit lower but unlike aftermarket lowering springs, the effective spring rate is the same so it's more likely to hit the bumpstops. Proper way is to get uprated bars but they're very pricey and rare to see a car with them. Best leave it standard.
If I hadn't changed jobs and needed something newer (car allowance) I'd probably still have it. Perfect blend of fun, practicality and low running costs at price bracket IMO.
As with any road car, brakes aren't up to sustained track use but the usual braided hoses and better fluid helps. Bigger discs and new calipers from the 206 can be fitted, or 306 items if you go up to 15" wheels.
The rear suspension is torsion beam, imagine a round bar fixed at one end and twisted from the other end. The cheap way of lowering is to take it all apart, and put the beam back in a spline or two further around. It'll sit lower but unlike aftermarket lowering springs, the effective spring rate is the same so it's more likely to hit the bumpstops. Proper way is to get uprated bars but they're very pricey and rare to see a car with them. Best leave it standard.
If I hadn't changed jobs and needed something newer (car allowance) I'd probably still have it. Perfect blend of fun, practicality and low running costs at price bracket IMO.
btw, no big changes. Later ones got EGR valves, over the years more became standard rather than optional. Around 99/2000 they changed to white dials and digital odo, and the nicer leather/alcantara seats were standard so worth going for those as the cloth before was pretty horrible. Really late ones got side airbags as well as the steering wheel one.
Have had my Gti three years now, other than head gasket and cracked cylinder head when I first purchased it, has only let me down once. That was a faulty coolant temperature sensor. £10 fix.
Car has done 130,000 now, still pulls strong and took me to Luxembourg and back few weeks ago and never missed a beat. On long runs the short gearing can make it quite a noisy place to be, even worse with mine having full poly bushes and a Peugeot sport exhaust. Have found that engine mount bushes have needed to be replaced with the high miles and so have most of the suspension bushes. Although that's to be expected, especially if driven as it's supposed to be.
Other than that a good fun cheap car to run.
Car has done 130,000 now, still pulls strong and took me to Luxembourg and back few weeks ago and never missed a beat. On long runs the short gearing can make it quite a noisy place to be, even worse with mine having full poly bushes and a Peugeot sport exhaust. Have found that engine mount bushes have needed to be replaced with the high miles and so have most of the suspension bushes. Although that's to be expected, especially if driven as it's supposed to be.
Other than that a good fun cheap car to run.
I can't comment on a standard one as I have an s1 with a tu5jp4 engine in, it's very unstandard but from what i've learnt the problems with modifications are: Lowering it at all puts a lot of stress on driveshafts, i've gone through 4! The ma gearboxes are quite fragile, coilpacks are a pretty common fault and aren't cheap as they are modular and have no leads. On the plus side, they are quite cheap to maintain, other service parts are cheap, lots of interchangeable bits from other Peugeots and citroens. The best modifications you can do are all fairly cheap, intake, manifold, exhaust will free up a bit of power and make the rev range a bit more useable. They are good cars though and on certain roads you can't half make them fly 
SDxsi said:
I can't comment on a standard one as I have an s1 with a tu5jp4 engine in, it's very unstandard but from what i've learnt the problems with modifications are: Lowering it at all puts a lot of stress on driveshafts, i've gone through 4! The ma gearboxes are quite fragile, coilpacks are a pretty common fault and aren't cheap as they are modular and have no leads. On the plus side, they are quite cheap to maintain, other service parts are cheap, lots of interchangeable bits from other Peugeots and citroens. The best modifications you can do are all fairly cheap, intake, manifold, exhaust will free up a bit of power and make the rev range a bit more useable. They are good cars though and on certain roads you can't half make them fly
I'd suggest either your driving style or a previous owners are more to blame than the ride height for killing shafts, same for the boxes, they are perfectly adequate if treated with some sympathy. I've yet to kill a box or a driveshaft and i'm running about 200bhp and 170lb. As far as I can tell my box is still the original at 110k and hasn't been rebuilt! I would agree about the coilpacks though, an easy fix is a side mounted coilpack from an 8v engine and Corsa 1.6 16v HT leads. Also agreed on the freeing up of power, exhaust, manifold and a filter (even just a new standard one will help) will easily see around 145-140bhp.
Generally the cars are very sound and have no major faults, the only thing i'd check for is rust on the bootfloor/inner wing join. Shouldn't be a problem on a newer car but it's starting to kill off some older Rallyes. The shells are all galvanised so generally rust free but this is one spot to watch.
It's not so much the boxes that are the problem it's the syncros that I usually have a problem with. I'll have to agree it's probably a mix of a previous owner and my driving style but then it's a small price to pay for the sheer enjoyment of it.
I'm assuming you're either on Catcam 708s or FI?
I'm assuming you're either on Catcam 708s or FI?
JAM35F said:
Am after a new run around for my short journey to work, I have 3k to spend but also want to itch a track day itch so would like a car that can do both, relatively cheaply.
Have been looking at 106 gtis, does anyone have experience of tracking a reasonably standard one or experience of running one daily? Anything bad to look out for?
Did anything major change over the years it was made?
Also, I'm 6ft 3, will I fit ok? My wife has a mini and I fit in fine in that and want a small, good handling car like that, but on a smaller budget.
Finally, and I'll look a bit unknowledgeable here, but some I have seen mention the rear beam has been lowered. How is this different from standard shocks and springs, how does a rear beam work? I don't want a lowered one as I have heard they are great out of the box but am just curious as to how the suspension is set up on one? thanks in advance
Can't really comment on the GTI, although I did do over 60,000 miles in 106.Have been looking at 106 gtis, does anyone have experience of tracking a reasonably standard one or experience of running one daily? Anything bad to look out for?
Did anything major change over the years it was made?
Also, I'm 6ft 3, will I fit ok? My wife has a mini and I fit in fine in that and want a small, good handling car like that, but on a smaller budget.
Finally, and I'll look a bit unknowledgeable here, but some I have seen mention the rear beam has been lowered. How is this different from standard shocks and springs, how does a rear beam work? I don't want a lowered one as I have heard they are great out of the box but am just curious as to how the suspension is set up on one? thanks in advance
But if you want something fast and fun and small, keep an eye out for a VVC powered Rover 100/Metro. Loads of space and head room in those, lightweight and with a VVC engine they will be fairly nippy.
These turn up in the classifieds and on eBay from time to time, from £900-2000 depending on spec/condition.
JAM35F said:
ex vtskid said:
Size 10's will be fine in a 106, took me about a week before I was properly used to it (Saxo) though. Also I'm 6ft and was never uncomfortable, would think you'd be fine.
I'd try and see if you could get a Clio Sport though, I didn't like mine - reliability was a joke
Clio sport is another option if i raise my budget (which i'd rather not do...) You had unreliablity from a clio sport? Anything in particular.I'd try and see if you could get a Clio Sport though, I didn't like mine - reliability was a joke
Thanks for all those that have posted so far, very helpful. If I got one I'd keep it fairly standard and just tweak the brakes and exhaust etc if necessary as from what I've read and see on you tube (Clarksons handling comparison against exotica is amazing) they are pretty good out of the box.
Cheap to maintain is essential as is cost of any minor tweaks. 306gti-6 is also being considered but there seem to be less of them in good condition about and all associated costs rise with the bigger car.
My 106 was abused pretty hard, and did need some attention. But it was fairly solid overall and seemed to resist rust well too, as in amazingly there wasn't any on it at all.
But stupid annoying things would break. Such as heater controls, vent direction sliders, indicator stalks that suddenly billow smoke while you are driving along. Main fuse for all the lights that blows while you are driving in the dark leaving you with only hazard lights. Gear linkages that detach themselves. Heated rear windows that will only work if it isn't wet or cold out.
106 Gti's are pretty solid cars and would be good for both uses, although have you looked at other options?
I think a 2000 Rover 25 Gti or 51 plate Mg Zr 160 could be picked up for around £1000? To be honest probably not the most reliable of cars but if your going to spend £3000 on a Pug you might as well buy a 160 put modifications and a forged bottem end on it for that price. It would be much faster and more reliable.
I think a 2000 Rover 25 Gti or 51 plate Mg Zr 160 could be picked up for around £1000? To be honest probably not the most reliable of cars but if your going to spend £3000 on a Pug you might as well buy a 160 put modifications and a forged bottem end on it for that price. It would be much faster and more reliable.
doogz said:
300bhp/ton said:
JAM35F said:
ex vtskid said:
Size 10's will be fine in a 106, took me about a week before I was properly used to it (Saxo) though. Also I'm 6ft and was never uncomfortable, would think you'd be fine.
I'd try and see if you could get a Clio Sport though, I didn't like mine - reliability was a joke
Clio sport is another option if i raise my budget (which i'd rather not do...) You had unreliablity from a clio sport? Anything in particular.I'd try and see if you could get a Clio Sport though, I didn't like mine - reliability was a joke
Thanks for all those that have posted so far, very helpful. If I got one I'd keep it fairly standard and just tweak the brakes and exhaust etc if necessary as from what I've read and see on you tube (Clarksons handling comparison against exotica is amazing) they are pretty good out of the box.
Cheap to maintain is essential as is cost of any minor tweaks. 306gti-6 is also being considered but there seem to be less of them in good condition about and all associated costs rise with the bigger car.
My 106 was abused pretty hard, and did need some attention. But it was fairly solid overall and seemed to resist rust well too, as in amazingly there wasn't any on it at all.
But stupid annoying things would break. Such as heater controls, vent direction sliders, indicator stalks that suddenly billow smoke while you are driving along. Main fuse for all the lights that blows while you are driving in the dark leaving you with only hazard lights. Gear linkages that detach themselves. Heated rear windows that will only work if it isn't wet or cold out.
Other than usual wear and tear, the only thing that ever broke was an engine mount, after i spent a day ragging my saxo round a field
I actually don't think they are bad cars, but their reputation does precede them.
My best mate had 2 Citroen's, an AX and a brand new VTR. The AX had loads of gremlins. the VTR was good for the first few years, but a bit before he sold it, it started having tantrums.
My Mum had a large Citroen saloon (forget the model number at the mo). Huge and comfy and very economical. But it had some real oddities and some dangerous. When you started it, if the pneumatic suspension didn't pressure correctly it would disable the foot brakes. Which was nice as our drive had a fairly steep slope at the time, so unless you were careful you'd start it, select drive, brakes would suddenly be disabled and you'd roll into the road.
I've had 2 106's, and early XND 1.4 diesel. It had a HG failure, but soldiered on for many weeks doing 100+ miles a day, stopping to change the coolant every 30-40 miles or so.
It had silly things wrong with it, driver window would fall out of runner, despite all the bits being in place and looking as though they worked the same as the passenger window. A few other minor issues.
Then had the 106 1.5 diesel. I admit I did abuse it. It carried a Land Rover 200Tdi engine in the back and won a couple of trophies autotesting. It needed in my time, clutch, gear linkage, driveshafts, rad, wheel bearings, exhaust, brakes. On top of the other issues highlighted. But it would do over 60mpg.
A friend also had a 206 1.4 GLS. Lots of silly issues, it would eat brake bads and it had the worse gear change I've ever experienced, and I'm used to driving farm tractors!!
All that aside though, one thing that really bugs me and would stop me buying another. Is getting parts. The French seem to change suppliers ever 3-6 months during production. This means each time you want anything, you'll be presented with multiple choice. And know one will know which is the right bit. So you end up trial and error until you order the right bit.
e.g. brake pads. For some models I've seen 4 different front pads listed.
On my Pug the exhaust was a real PITA. It was a very, very early facelift car, it had the latter 1.5 diesel engine instead of the older 1.4 but was pre-CAT. In the parts world this model doesn't exist at all. So it was trial and error, thing we order 3 exhausts for it, before we found one that fitted.
But I suppose they do add a little flavour, lol
Ive got an S2 106 (granny spec) with a gti engine for an everyday driver and track car. I find that the Bilstein suspension setup is very harsh on the roads but amazing on the track.
My engine is on about 80k and pulls very well in every gear although I find they need to be kept high in the rev range for most power. Gearboxes are pretty good im still on the original.
Fixing it costs peanuts aswel. The worst job was changing the heater matrix which meant getting the dash out. Gearboxes/driveshafts can be replaced in an hour or 2.
Performance wise it keeps up with a Clio 172 and Civic Type R on the track.
Check out 106 rallye register for more indepth information.
My engine is on about 80k and pulls very well in every gear although I find they need to be kept high in the rev range for most power. Gearboxes are pretty good im still on the original.
Fixing it costs peanuts aswel. The worst job was changing the heater matrix which meant getting the dash out. Gearboxes/driveshafts can be replaced in an hour or 2.
Performance wise it keeps up with a Clio 172 and Civic Type R on the track.
Check out 106 rallye register for more indepth information.
Edited by Matt106 on Friday 17th September 09:44
JAM35F said:
StottyZr said:
106 Gti's are pretty solid cars and would be good for both uses, although have you looked at other options?
I think a 2000 Rover 25 Gti or 51 plate Mg Zr 160 could be picked up for around £1000? To be honest probably not the most reliable of cars but if your going to spend £3000 on a Pug you might as well buy a 160 put modifications and a forged bottem end on it for that price. It would be much faster and more reliable.
my wife had a Rover 200 about 6 years ago, what a pile of s&5t it became, head gasket was on the way out and it had overheating issues, garage told us to get rid of it sharpish. So after the removal of a jars worth of mayo it was sold on to a couple of fools who deserved it for their tyre kicking attitude when they viewed it. They spotted lots of problems but not the head gasket, so like a true gent I gave them £50 off and waved them off in a maroon piece of junk.I think a 2000 Rover 25 Gti or 51 plate Mg Zr 160 could be picked up for around £1000? To be honest probably not the most reliable of cars but if your going to spend £3000 on a Pug you might as well buy a 160 put modifications and a forged bottem end on it for that price. It would be much faster and more reliable.
I'll never go near a Rover again.
Am beginning to be put off the 106gti by all these tales of things breaking...
JAM35F said:
Have to disagree there, my wife falls in to neither of your descriptions and it was over serviced regularly by a main dealer. Gasket still went pop. Crap cars.
Yeah I have to agree, they are weak engines head gasket wise (unless you get a Mk2 160 with uprated HG)The problem with these cars were they were almost great, if the origional cars had been fitted with the uprated HG's they would have been brilliant! But nothing stops anybody buying one now and fitting this head gasket.
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