writing an ebay advert...
Discussion
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Understatement!Lazy advert makes me think they take the same amount of care of the vehicle.
Full list of options, how many owners, details (dates/mileages/garage) for services.
Condition of tyres, interior, alloys. Any marks. Anything not working.
Better pics (inside, outside, wheels, documents).
All keys? V5? Finance? Accidents?
The more detail, the better - the less you give the more time you spend answering questions.
This is more like it : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2006-LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-3-...
I wrote this for a motorcycle forum that I frequent. Its quite detailed but hopefully it'll help.
What I don't mention is that spelling and grammar are pretty important too...
What I don't mention is that spelling and grammar are pretty important too...
MarJay said:
Ok.
MarJay's guide to buying and selling vehicles on ebay.
Selling:
Selling is the easy part but you need to remember a number of things:
Golden rule: Realistic pricing. Ebay is not magic, and it won't mysteriously get you ten grand for your old C90. Pick the absolute minimum you want for the vehicle, the amount that you would accept if push came to shove. This is likely to be closer to the actual value of the vehicle than what you *think* its worth. Its human nature I'm afraid. This value will be your auction start price. I don't hold much sway with the idea of 99p no reserve, its too uncertain for a non-gambler like me.
Ok. So you've picked the lowest price you'd accept for your car or bike. Now you need to list it. The best way to do this is to list it with no reserve (a reserve puts buyers off) and on a ten day auction starting on a Thursday evening about 9pm. This gives you two whole weekends for people to view the vehicle before bidding. You need to make your starting price as the minimum price you want for the vehicle.
Description. Start by giving a brief overview of the make and model for someone who knows nothing about it at all. Just two lines about what makes it a good car or bike, how popular it was and what reviewers said etc. This is for selling the bike so be positive.
Describe the bike or car accurately. Do not leave anything out of the description that will be immediately obvious to the buyer when they turn up and examine the bike or car closely. Do not lie, describe it accurately. Any dents, scratches or imperfections need to be described with photos. Try to anticipate any questions that buyers might ask and answer them. Tell them about the condition of the tyres, the mileage, and service history etc. Accentuate the good parts, and explain why the bad parts aren't a complete disaster (eg "Tyres are a bit worn, but there is plenty of life left in them" etc).
Use all of the available 12 free photos on ebay. Take good photos from the front, back, both sides, the odometer, the imperfections, the wheels, 1 of all documents (with your details hidden) and interior if it is a car. If you don't use your 12 photos... why not? They are free, and each photo encourages more buyers. Its all about making potential bidders trust that what you've said is accurate. If they distrust you they won't bid - simple. Choose a reasonable location for your photos, and try to take them on a sunny day after having washed the vehicle. Never take photos of a vehicle whilst it is standing in the same spot as when you've washed it as people will notice you've just washed it! What I sometimes do with bikes is take it up to a local industrial estate with a fountain and a lake. I put the bike with the lake and fountain in the background as it looks nicer than a block of garages. This isn't essential, but it does help to make the photos look that bit better. Take the front rear and side photos from as low angle as you can get without having your face in the dirt. This makes the photos look better too. I suggest using a proper digital camera and not a phone camera as on the whole phone cameras are rubbish.
At the end of the description point out strenuously that there is plenty of time to view the vehicle before the auction end, and you are prepared to arrange viewing. This is doubly important, but I will come to the reason later. Say that they are bidding to buy and not kick tyres, especially as you've deliberately left time for people to view the vehicle. This means there is less chance of the buyer wheedling their way out if they snipe it.
I usually put a little blurb about delivery (I don't do it but its up to you) I also say I will not accept west-on -onion (ebay won't allow auctions which contain the words "Western Union") , no bankers drafts, cheques or anything like that. I want a deposit using Paypal and the rest in cold hard cash in person. I will not hand over the vehicle to anybody other than the buyer - so no courier nonsense. I want to be in posession of the cash before I let anyone take it. This includes bank transfers etc; I don't trust them. I want the money in my hand. I also say I don't want scammers, agencies, tyre kickers or test pilots. I outline my policy on test driving/riding very carefully. You are welcome to let people test ride or drive but its up to you. I personally will take people out in a car and perhaps let them drive it if I trust them but I'm always wary of any bike testing. Maybe thats just me. If you've got the whole cash amount in verfied notes which aren't forgeries then I don't see an issue, although it is an offense to knowingly allow someone who doesn't have proper insurance drive your vehicle. If you ask them and they say yes I've got insurance I think that is enough. You took reasonable steps to ensure they had insurance.
So, you've got your ten day auction, with an accurate description, great photos and a brief blurb about what you do not want to see from a bidder. You've got your start price, and you've said there is plenty of time to view the vehicle and you are willing to arrange viewing at reasonable times during the auction run. The auction could go one of two ways:
1.) Someone comes to look at the vehicle and they like it. They will ask you to end the auction early. This is a good thing for you as you will miss out on final value fees. Don't let the buyer know this is a good thing. Tell them you have a number of watchers and you think it will go above the start price by some margin. Usually buyers will offer you a couple of hundred quid above the start price, which is cool because its the amount of money you want for it right? Haggle carefully, but aim to sell the vehicle to them if possible, especially if they seem trustworthy. Its much easier to size someone up in person than it is via ebay.
2.) Nobody comes to view the vehicle, or people view but don't seem that interested. If you've got enough watchers, somebody will snipe at the last minute. If you are lucky, a couple of people will and will start a minor bidding war. You'll get what you want but you won't be able to size up the buyer before it goes. Hopefully this doesn't matter because you've already explained to people that they are bidding to buy, not to kick tyres and you've given them ample opportunity to view before bidding.
I reckon I've sold about eight vehicles that way and its never failed.
MarJay's guide to buying and selling vehicles on ebay.
Selling:
Selling is the easy part but you need to remember a number of things:
Golden rule: Realistic pricing. Ebay is not magic, and it won't mysteriously get you ten grand for your old C90. Pick the absolute minimum you want for the vehicle, the amount that you would accept if push came to shove. This is likely to be closer to the actual value of the vehicle than what you *think* its worth. Its human nature I'm afraid. This value will be your auction start price. I don't hold much sway with the idea of 99p no reserve, its too uncertain for a non-gambler like me.
Ok. So you've picked the lowest price you'd accept for your car or bike. Now you need to list it. The best way to do this is to list it with no reserve (a reserve puts buyers off) and on a ten day auction starting on a Thursday evening about 9pm. This gives you two whole weekends for people to view the vehicle before bidding. You need to make your starting price as the minimum price you want for the vehicle.
Description. Start by giving a brief overview of the make and model for someone who knows nothing about it at all. Just two lines about what makes it a good car or bike, how popular it was and what reviewers said etc. This is for selling the bike so be positive.
Describe the bike or car accurately. Do not leave anything out of the description that will be immediately obvious to the buyer when they turn up and examine the bike or car closely. Do not lie, describe it accurately. Any dents, scratches or imperfections need to be described with photos. Try to anticipate any questions that buyers might ask and answer them. Tell them about the condition of the tyres, the mileage, and service history etc. Accentuate the good parts, and explain why the bad parts aren't a complete disaster (eg "Tyres are a bit worn, but there is plenty of life left in them" etc).
Use all of the available 12 free photos on ebay. Take good photos from the front, back, both sides, the odometer, the imperfections, the wheels, 1 of all documents (with your details hidden) and interior if it is a car. If you don't use your 12 photos... why not? They are free, and each photo encourages more buyers. Its all about making potential bidders trust that what you've said is accurate. If they distrust you they won't bid - simple. Choose a reasonable location for your photos, and try to take them on a sunny day after having washed the vehicle. Never take photos of a vehicle whilst it is standing in the same spot as when you've washed it as people will notice you've just washed it! What I sometimes do with bikes is take it up to a local industrial estate with a fountain and a lake. I put the bike with the lake and fountain in the background as it looks nicer than a block of garages. This isn't essential, but it does help to make the photos look that bit better. Take the front rear and side photos from as low angle as you can get without having your face in the dirt. This makes the photos look better too. I suggest using a proper digital camera and not a phone camera as on the whole phone cameras are rubbish.
At the end of the description point out strenuously that there is plenty of time to view the vehicle before the auction end, and you are prepared to arrange viewing. This is doubly important, but I will come to the reason later. Say that they are bidding to buy and not kick tyres, especially as you've deliberately left time for people to view the vehicle. This means there is less chance of the buyer wheedling their way out if they snipe it.
I usually put a little blurb about delivery (I don't do it but its up to you) I also say I will not accept west-on -onion (ebay won't allow auctions which contain the words "Western Union") , no bankers drafts, cheques or anything like that. I want a deposit using Paypal and the rest in cold hard cash in person. I will not hand over the vehicle to anybody other than the buyer - so no courier nonsense. I want to be in posession of the cash before I let anyone take it. This includes bank transfers etc; I don't trust them. I want the money in my hand. I also say I don't want scammers, agencies, tyre kickers or test pilots. I outline my policy on test driving/riding very carefully. You are welcome to let people test ride or drive but its up to you. I personally will take people out in a car and perhaps let them drive it if I trust them but I'm always wary of any bike testing. Maybe thats just me. If you've got the whole cash amount in verfied notes which aren't forgeries then I don't see an issue, although it is an offense to knowingly allow someone who doesn't have proper insurance drive your vehicle. If you ask them and they say yes I've got insurance I think that is enough. You took reasonable steps to ensure they had insurance.
So, you've got your ten day auction, with an accurate description, great photos and a brief blurb about what you do not want to see from a bidder. You've got your start price, and you've said there is plenty of time to view the vehicle and you are willing to arrange viewing at reasonable times during the auction run. The auction could go one of two ways:
1.) Someone comes to look at the vehicle and they like it. They will ask you to end the auction early. This is a good thing for you as you will miss out on final value fees. Don't let the buyer know this is a good thing. Tell them you have a number of watchers and you think it will go above the start price by some margin. Usually buyers will offer you a couple of hundred quid above the start price, which is cool because its the amount of money you want for it right? Haggle carefully, but aim to sell the vehicle to them if possible, especially if they seem trustworthy. Its much easier to size someone up in person than it is via ebay.
2.) Nobody comes to view the vehicle, or people view but don't seem that interested. If you've got enough watchers, somebody will snipe at the last minute. If you are lucky, a couple of people will and will start a minor bidding war. You'll get what you want but you won't be able to size up the buyer before it goes. Hopefully this doesn't matter because you've already explained to people that they are bidding to buy, not to kick tyres and you've given them ample opportunity to view before bidding.
I reckon I've sold about eight vehicles that way and its never failed.
Edited by MarJay on Tuesday 12th October 12:09
Blatant advert! Buut ignoring that, yes the ad's crap and you wont get as many bidders as you should. Ive done a few tips for you. More pics will help, especially the inside. Also repeat some of the info from the eBay specification in your ad, keeping it clear i.e use bullet points, for example.
Most importantly it says in the eBay spec 1 previous owner.
Is this the case as you say in the description 1 owner (i.e was it an ex-demo - in which case it has 1 private owner + Demo). If not and you are the first owner, previous owners should be 0.
Anyway...
Welcome to the auction for my 2005 Land Rover Discovery TDV6.
I have owned the car since new **/**/** and will be sad to see it go (are you?!!!).
The car has had 1 previous owner (or 1 oener from new) and has covered (MILEAGE?!!!!) with full service history.
The car has been maintained regardless of cost. Most recently I have replaced the following at a cost of £****:
- 4 x new tyres
- new brake pads
- new brake discs
The car is finished in Metallic Silver (with what colour interior - cloth/leather?) which is in (?fantastic original?) condition (ammend as appropriate).
(add VERY honest description noting any scratches panel by panel if necessary as you'll only get probs if you deont mention something).
The car has a high specifiaction which includes the following features:
- Xenon headlights
- Air Conditioning/Climate Control
- Cruise Control
- CD Player
- Alloy Wheels
- Parking Sensors
- Power Steering (PAS)
- Electric Windows etc
- Electronic Stability Program (ESP
- Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
- Driver/Passenger/Side Airbags
- Alarm/Immobiliser
- Rear seat belts
This has been a great car - reliable with no problems - was amazing in the snow.
...etc etc.
OH - AND DO NOT ACCEPT PAYPAL UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.
I think that Chaps transfer is safest - do some research.
Most importantly it says in the eBay spec 1 previous owner.
Is this the case as you say in the description 1 owner (i.e was it an ex-demo - in which case it has 1 private owner + Demo). If not and you are the first owner, previous owners should be 0.
Anyway...
Welcome to the auction for my 2005 Land Rover Discovery TDV6.
I have owned the car since new **/**/** and will be sad to see it go (are you?!!!).
The car has had 1 previous owner (or 1 oener from new) and has covered (MILEAGE?!!!!) with full service history.
The car has been maintained regardless of cost. Most recently I have replaced the following at a cost of £****:
- 4 x new tyres
- new brake pads
- new brake discs
The car is finished in Metallic Silver (with what colour interior - cloth/leather?) which is in (?fantastic original?) condition (ammend as appropriate).
(add VERY honest description noting any scratches panel by panel if necessary as you'll only get probs if you deont mention something).
The car has a high specifiaction which includes the following features:
- Xenon headlights
- Air Conditioning/Climate Control
- Cruise Control
- CD Player
- Alloy Wheels
- Parking Sensors
- Power Steering (PAS)
- Electric Windows etc
- Electronic Stability Program (ESP
- Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
- Driver/Passenger/Side Airbags
- Alarm/Immobiliser
- Rear seat belts
This has been a great car - reliable with no problems - was amazing in the snow.
...etc etc.
OH - AND DO NOT ACCEPT PAYPAL UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.
I think that Chaps transfer is safest - do some research.
Edited by Gallen on Tuesday 12th October 12:28
Gallen said:
The car has been maintained regardless of cost. Most recently I have replaced the following at a cost of £****:
- 4 x new tyres
- new brake pads
- new brake discs
I think that the amount spent on this work is not really relevant as it would depend who carried out the work (main dealer, indie, friend round the corner etc. and if the parts were first quality or aftermarket) and if the figure appeared high would put people (certainly me) off as it may appear that the seller has realised what a money pit the car is and needs to get rid quick. After all, why would you spend lots of money and then sell the car shortly afterwards? Best just to say "Most recently I have replaced the following:" - 4 x new tyres
- new brake pads
- new brake discs
Edited by Gallen on Tuesday 12th October 12:28
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