BMW - rwd driving advice
Discussion
I'm planning to buy a 3 litre BMW this weekend. I've never had a BMW or a rwd car before. However, I am an experienced driver.
Can anything suggest what issues I need to look for when driving a rwd?
Further, are there any books or cheap courses that I should consider?
For what it is worth I will buy some snowsocks-I'm just unsure whether they will fit a 19" tyre.
Can anything suggest what issues I need to look for when driving a rwd?
Further, are there any books or cheap courses that I should consider?
For what it is worth I will buy some snowsocks-I'm just unsure whether they will fit a 19" tyre.
during normal driving at legal speeds - I am going to stick my neck out here maybe - there is nothing special to consider imo
general application of a roadcraft esque system of car control will ensure that you have no problems.
consider a run out with an observer from your local IAM / RoADAR group to develop further in this area if it is something you haven't done much of yet
generally speaking rwd BM's (especially those of a more sporty nature) are fabled to be bad in snow, but the reality ime (had a e60 530i all last winter) is that they are OK until the weather turns really bad, the snow shoe things are a good call
others will doubtless pop up with information about the differences in under/oversteer of fwd/rwd/awd cars in corners / skids and it is interesting to experience these differences in appropriate conditions.
but I repeat my opening line: in normal driving at legal speeds, there is nothing special to consider imo
general application of a roadcraft esque system of car control will ensure that you have no problems.
consider a run out with an observer from your local IAM / RoADAR group to develop further in this area if it is something you haven't done much of yet
generally speaking rwd BM's (especially those of a more sporty nature) are fabled to be bad in snow, but the reality ime (had a e60 530i all last winter) is that they are OK until the weather turns really bad, the snow shoe things are a good call
others will doubtless pop up with information about the differences in under/oversteer of fwd/rwd/awd cars in corners / skids and it is interesting to experience these differences in appropriate conditions.
but I repeat my opening line: in normal driving at legal speeds, there is nothing special to consider imo
If you boot it out of a greasy corner, the back will slide, not the front.
If it starts to slide (and you've switched off the electronic driver aids) don't lift off too suddenly or the back will overtake the front.
Otherwise, just drive it like you do anything else - If you go into a corner too quick, you will probably crash!
M.
If it starts to slide (and you've switched off the electronic driver aids) don't lift off too suddenly or the back will overtake the front.
Otherwise, just drive it like you do anything else - If you go into a corner too quick, you will probably crash!
M.
It will have traction control so no need to worry. Highly recommend finding an empty, preferably wet, carpark, switching off the traction control and broadening your driving experience.
Until Feb this year I have never owned a FWD drive and have driven in snow, ice rain etc and I am still alive despite having no formal driver training beyond what is needed to obtain road licenses.
Until Feb this year I have never owned a FWD drive and have driven in snow, ice rain etc and I am still alive despite having no formal driver training beyond what is needed to obtain road licenses.
Are you meaning more what mechanical things to look out for?
in that case not too much, just listen out for the transmission etc that it isn't noisy, whining or clunky.
for some reason alot of rwd cars struggle to go from first to reverse and back again without big clunks. mainly on mercs, but does happen on beamers sometimes.
I'd expect most beamers to be able to hold a high mileage well, so it can be tougher to tell a clocked one. I wouldn't worry too much about it though, just go through the paperwork very carefully.
in that case not too much, just listen out for the transmission etc that it isn't noisy, whining or clunky.
for some reason alot of rwd cars struggle to go from first to reverse and back again without big clunks. mainly on mercs, but does happen on beamers sometimes.
I'd expect most beamers to be able to hold a high mileage well, so it can be tougher to tell a clocked one. I wouldn't worry too much about it though, just go through the paperwork very carefully.
As above really, day to day there shouldn't be much difference unless you are used to torque steer in FWD - in which case there won't be the same grabbing feel.
Pushing on just be aware of booting it out of slippy corners, although this shouldn't be too big a problem with 19" and TC on.
I've never had any trouble in the snow and it'll give you the perfect opportunity to get used to RWD dynamics at safe(ish) speed.
I went from FWD to RWD in december a couple of years ago and I'm still alive and the car hasn't needed any repair - that should tell you all you need to know (I was 21 so I did all the crazy stuff too and came close to going sideways into hedges - if I survived then you will too!).
Pushing on just be aware of booting it out of slippy corners, although this shouldn't be too big a problem with 19" and TC on.
I've never had any trouble in the snow and it'll give you the perfect opportunity to get used to RWD dynamics at safe(ish) speed.
I went from FWD to RWD in december a couple of years ago and I'm still alive and the car hasn't needed any repair - that should tell you all you need to know (I was 21 so I did all the crazy stuff too and came close to going sideways into hedges - if I survived then you will too!).
I'd agree with others, short of hoofing it on a wet roundabout or junction and the back stepping out instead of lighting up a front wheel, unless you drove your FWD on the ragged edge then there isn't much difference, and if you did then you'd probably be aware of the differences to expect.
On that note the only rule of thumb is take it easy on the throttle at first, and if it does let go, steer into the slide and don't snap the throttle shut
On that note the only rule of thumb is take it easy on the throttle at first, and if it does let go, steer into the slide and don't snap the throttle shut
Dr Jekyll said:
tomtom said:
I've driven RWD cars exclusively for so long I honestly can't remember what it feels like to drive a FWD car fast.
Unless you're really pushing it I'd wager you won't be able to tell the difference.
+1. Heresy on pistonheads but perfectly true.Unless you're really pushing it I'd wager you won't be able to tell the difference.
It's not hard to tell that it's RWD, but IMHO that's more down to the way suspension geometry gets set up for RWD cars than the actual fact that the rear wheels are driven.
The only fundamental difference with RWD is that you can get power, as well as lift-off, over-steer. This means that you need to know the cause of the over-steer before knowing whether to increase or decrease throttle input to correct it. It's almost always bloody obvious, though.
The only fundamental difference with RWD is that you can get power, as well as lift-off, over-steer. This means that you need to know the cause of the over-steer before knowing whether to increase or decrease throttle input to correct it. It's almost always bloody obvious, though.
tI have a BMW 330i Sport and tbh as long as you have the DSC on it will be no different to driving a FWD car. Even completely switching it of (holding DSC button for 5sec) it's still very planted at speed.
Too much right foot on take off or exiting a corner will always get the back end sliding especially in the greasy/wet conditions but without a LSD its not savage or difficult to correct.
Too much right foot on take off or exiting a corner will always get the back end sliding especially in the greasy/wet conditions but without a LSD its not savage or difficult to correct.
BMW employ such ruthless stability control systems that, assuming you arent being completely stupid so as to push the boundaries of physics (which, on the road, you wont do im sure) then any tail out moments will be swiftly halted. That said, the mid-setting does allow you to get yourself into a little bit of mischief...
should you wish to understand whats involved when you do push past the limit, a drift day at somewhere like oulton park will help. I wouldnt advoate the use of an empty roundabout for your first foray into power oversteer...
should you wish to understand whats involved when you do push past the limit, a drift day at somewhere like oulton park will help. I wouldnt advoate the use of an empty roundabout for your first foray into power oversteer...
With suspension that's done more than about 80-90k miles, you may find the back slides occasionally in wet and greasy conditions. If the car's reasonably fresh you'd more than likely have to drive like an idiot to have any real moments. Most of my non-petrolhead friends who've changed to RWD have just had the odd "weird moment" about once every couple of years when they do something silly, so nothing really to worry about. My advice is to drive smoothly and to corner not on or off the power, but at a constant speed (what's known as a "steady throttle").
Gassing Station | General Gassing [Archive] | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff