Acid dipping shells
Author
Discussion

m444ttb

Original Poster:

3,177 posts

252 months

Monday 25th October 2010
quotequote all
Has anyone had a shell dipped either as part of a track / race car build or restoration? Im looking for a recommendation! Ideally somewhere that can / will do some weight saving during the process.

jagman21

195 posts

247 months

Monday 25th October 2010
quotequote all
I've heard this stories of acid remaining in box section after dipping the only way to get it out is to drill holes and let it drip, otherwise it will eat away at the steel.

Soda blast is safer. perhaps not as thorough

filski666

3,865 posts

215 months

Monday 25th October 2010
quotequote all
jagman21 said:
I've heard this stories of acid remaining in box section after dipping the only way to get it out is to drill holes and let it drip, otherwise it will eat away at the steel.

Soda blast is safer. perhaps not as thorough
I can't believe that is true - part of the production process for the BIW is to dip it for the e-coat.

As long as you remove ALL the paint plugs before dipping I don't believe any acid would remain in the box sections.

Anyway - don't they normally run it through a neutraliser after the acid dip?

Don't forget to replace the paint plugs or you WILL get wet feet!

vpr

3,907 posts

261 months

Monday 25th October 2010
quotequote all
I had one dipped and neutralised and e-coated.

Wouldn't do it again......infact I haven't, ive media blasted the latest project

filski666

3,865 posts

215 months

Monday 25th October 2010
quotequote all
vpr said:
I had one dipped and neutralised and e-coated.

Wouldn't do it again......infact I haven't, ive media blasted the latest project
what happened to the one you had dipped which put you off?

Steve_W

1,567 posts

200 months

Monday 25th October 2010
quotequote all
My mate just had the chassis, bulkhead, etc. done for his Series 2 Land Rover by Surface Processing. He can't praise their work highly enough.

It certainly seems to have removed all rust, underseal, etc.

SPL in Dudley

m444ttb

Original Poster:

3,177 posts

252 months

Monday 25th October 2010
quotequote all
That's the company I was looking at. Looks like it will be c£3.3k + vat. They have stressed the need to make sure there is sufficient drainage!

m444ttb

Original Poster:

3,177 posts

252 months

Monday 25th October 2010
quotequote all
Edit: Double post

Edited by m444ttb on Monday 25th October 22:32

Lagerlout

1,812 posts

259 months

Monday 25th October 2010
quotequote all
Restoring a valuable car at the moment and the weight of advice was not to get it dipped as it can continue to seep out and cause paint problems long after the respray. There are two schools of thought on this so I'm sure you'll hear from both sides!!

dom9

8,550 posts

232 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
I was also put off doing this (for the reasons described), so will be following this thread with interest...

Psimpson7

1,071 posts

264 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
I had a Land Rover 90 chassis done by SPL a few years ago, before it was galvanised.

They did a very good job. I would recommend them.

Rgds
Pete

mat205125

17,790 posts

236 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
Book marked to hear some first hand stories regarding this

vpr

3,907 posts

261 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
filski666 said:
vpr said:
I had one dipped and neutralised and e-coated.

Wouldn't do it again......infact I haven't, ive media blasted the latest project
what happened to the one you had dipped which put you off?
I had a large car done and it was smashed about....an original panel car with no damage but when it returned it had majaor dents to rear wings for example.

I'm just not sure that all gets neutralised in all the box sections etc. A simple example of this is where the inside of the rear wheel well (under the car not in the boot)there was a pocket of air I guess. The acid worked there but the neutralising and e coat didn't. Evidence of this is when it came back there was approximately 4" round area of deep rust. Easy for me to get to and clean up but I imagine there are lots or other air traps.

Also the bodyshop had to pick apart all the seams and thoroughly clean them off and weld back up. Again there is no way this could be done throughout the entire car.

Since completion the car was left in the rain just once and I see the smallest amount of orange streaking from areas such as where the outer bonnet skin meets the inner.

This car will never see damp or rain. I'm scared.

muunch

9 posts

223 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
when refreshing rally shells we always acid dip .

mat205125

17,790 posts

236 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
muunch said:
when refreshing rally shells we always acid dip .
I'm following this thread with a large amount of interest, and I'd be interested to consider dipping my Mk2 Escort HOWEVER .............

Whilst I'd intend to prepare my car to be able to use on single venue events, and regularly on trackdays, I'd want the finish to be a little higher than a "rally only" car. I've done rallying for many years, and the battering a forest car takes is unbeleiveable, to the point that we would touch it up with brushes post event.

m444ttb

Original Poster:

3,177 posts

252 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
When did manufacturers start dipping shells as part of their processes? Where my thinking is going is whether dipping a
BMW e90 would be easier than a 60's 2002 (just as an example of old and new) due to better drainage etc.

My shell will most likely be dipped, then spend quite a while sitting inside having welding done (cage, seam welding, etc) before going back to be flashed through the process again and then put through the protection dipping. The floor has a number of drains in from the factory. Ironic really that this is where some rust has come from! Either way it wouldn't be seeing paint that quick post-acid dip.

anonymous-user

77 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
Had my car dipped and plated by SP, they did an OK job, but you deffinately need to get it plated if you dip it, because the dipping takes all internal sections back to clean steel, so without a dipped electroplate of some description you can't really get any rust prevention back into those internal cavities. Was good come paint time, because the smooth electroplate surface hardly needed any primer or paint (so less weight in paint!!)

They did manage to put a few dents in one of the sills (probably with the forklift they moved it around with) so i would get pics before you send the shell, and tell 'em every dent is £100 off the bill!!



more pics here:

http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/max_torque...

davepoth

29,395 posts

222 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
I had mine done years ago when they had just started advertising. Bit strapped at the time so I got it etch primed instead of electroplated. The shell ended up sitting out in the weather like that (under a rubbish tarp) for a month before it got to the place it was being welded, and it didn't seem to suffer too badly.

m444ttb

Original Poster:

3,177 posts

252 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
When did manufacturers start dipping shells as part of their processes? Where my thinking is going is whether dipping a
BMW e90 would be easier than a 60's 2002 (just as an example of old and new) due to better drainage etc.

My shell will most likely be dipped, then spend quite a while sitting inside having welding done (cage, seam welding, etc) before going back to be flashed through the process again and then put through the protection dipping. The floor has a number of drains in from the factory. Ironic really that this is where some rust has come from! Either way it wouldn't be seeing paint that quick post-acid dip.