What's bad about coasting?
Discussion
Plotloss said:
soad said:
Wears out clutch = costly repair with time, shortens it's life too.
No engine breaking.
How can coasting wear the clutch?No engine breaking.
As it's disengaged.
The release bearing is being stressed yes but the clutch itself won't be.
You haven't as much control over the speed of your vehicle due to the loss of engine braking and the fact you can't just accelerate. Also you would be wearing the spring that releases your clutch unless you were in neutral.
Oh and you use less fuel by being in gear on the overrun than you do coasting in neutral or with the clutch depressed.
Oh and you use less fuel by being in gear on the overrun than you do coasting in neutral or with the clutch depressed.
I coast A LOT, I tend to slip into nuetral as well.
in control? hardly, the brakes are fab in or out of gear. and the accelleration so pathetic it wouldnt safe me enough in the reaction time anyway.
engine breaking? ok I get some, but I coast because I DONT want to slow down that much, just enough. eg long run down a gentle slope, that I eventually turn right at the bottom -
1) in gear, have to keep topping up the speed with the throttle, then ease of near the junction to drop the speed.
2) coast all the way, engine at idle, speed maintained all the way.
I reckon the coasting is more economical.
excessive clutch wear? after 140,000 miles. I havent fitted a new clutch yet. yet MIL, who had the same car with less mileage needed a clutch, I assume due to the style of slipping out the clutch on down shifts without blipping the throttle to match the revs, and sitting in traffic with the clutch in, or balance the car on a hill using the clutch..
go coasting....
in control? hardly, the brakes are fab in or out of gear. and the accelleration so pathetic it wouldnt safe me enough in the reaction time anyway.
engine breaking? ok I get some, but I coast because I DONT want to slow down that much, just enough. eg long run down a gentle slope, that I eventually turn right at the bottom -
1) in gear, have to keep topping up the speed with the throttle, then ease of near the junction to drop the speed.
2) coast all the way, engine at idle, speed maintained all the way.
I reckon the coasting is more economical.
excessive clutch wear? after 140,000 miles. I havent fitted a new clutch yet. yet MIL, who had the same car with less mileage needed a clutch, I assume due to the style of slipping out the clutch on down shifts without blipping the throttle to match the revs, and sitting in traffic with the clutch in, or balance the car on a hill using the clutch..
go coasting....
I think coasting is one of those curious points in that when it's raised on the internet, most people struggle to accept anything other than a black and white response e.g. coasting is not a perfect driving technique, therefore it must be incredibly dangerous.
The same thing happens in threads about driving bare-foot too.
The same thing happens in threads about driving bare-foot too.

durbster said:
I think coasting is one of those curious points in that when it's raised on the internet, most people struggle to accept anything other than a black and white response e.g. coasting is not a perfect driving technique, therefore it must be incredibly dangerous.
The same thing happens in threads about driving bare-foot too.
You're not allowed to be reasonable on the internet. Get out.The same thing happens in threads about driving bare-foot too.

1. No control (or slower control) in that you cant quickly accelerate.
2. No engine braking.
3. It is pointless as it uses more fuel than taking your foot of the gas in gear (you are using the same as silting stationary idling, versus modern engines with throttle closed using next to no fuel).
2. No engine braking.
3. It is pointless as it uses more fuel than taking your foot of the gas in gear (you are using the same as silting stationary idling, versus modern engines with throttle closed using next to no fuel).
Plotloss said:
The release bearing is being stressed yes but the clutch itself won't be.
As soon as you disengage to neutral the thrust bearing retracts in to the arm of the gearbox thus having no stress on the bearing at all. The thrust bearing would only be in stress in neutral if the driver had there foot slighty on the clutch which pushed the bearing to meet the clutch plate or alternatively a manually adjusted clutch cable was adjusted too tight not allowing the thrust bearing to fully retract from the clutch plate. Both examples would prematurely wear a clutch out.
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