Mazda RX--8. Buyers guide...
Discussion
Hi all, spent a hungover afternoon trawling auto-trader and stumbled across mazda rx8s... Was wondering if anyone has any experience of them that you would like to pass on... would want the 230hp version and the low mpg doesn't phase me so any other problems i should know about...
i'm 20 atm and have an S60 T5 and am looking at S60Rs, but going to wait until ive got 10k tucked away and get a low miler... in a few months should have around 5k to spend and might go down the sports car route before i return to quick barges...
anything else that fits my criteria you can think of?
i'm 20 atm and have an S60 T5 and am looking at S60Rs, but going to wait until ive got 10k tucked away and get a low miler... in a few months should have around 5k to spend and might go down the sports car route before i return to quick barges...
anything else that fits my criteria you can think of?
Get one, as long as it has full service history you'll be fine, I've had mine (R3) for 6 months and runs like a dran, averaging 19.6 mpg and I used more oil in my previous Golf GTI over a year than I have this car (I have put half a litre in in six months).
The Pro-drive PZ models and R3 models are the ones to go for. The PZ has been tinkered by Pro-drive and the R3 has a stiffer body shell, front end and back end have been changed, slight dash change, improved gear box and clutch.
But any mode as long as it well cared for is dream to drive, I tend not to use mine in town, use yours for fun rather than a work horse and you'll have a smile on your face always.
Some ppl suffer problems with the coils at around 20K, and get them changed I have not so have not changed mine. The only thing I would look at is the owner, press them and see how much they know about the car, if they are a bit of a dunce avoid it. The reason is some models are cheap get picked up at the car warehouse, where most of ppl I think go into buy one car and end up buying another without knowing anything about it.
Not had any issues with mine, no problems with the engine flooding, no over use of oil, this car is serious fun, once you go rotary....
The Pro-drive PZ models and R3 models are the ones to go for. The PZ has been tinkered by Pro-drive and the R3 has a stiffer body shell, front end and back end have been changed, slight dash change, improved gear box and clutch.
But any mode as long as it well cared for is dream to drive, I tend not to use mine in town, use yours for fun rather than a work horse and you'll have a smile on your face always.
Some ppl suffer problems with the coils at around 20K, and get them changed I have not so have not changed mine. The only thing I would look at is the owner, press them and see how much they know about the car, if they are a bit of a dunce avoid it. The reason is some models are cheap get picked up at the car warehouse, where most of ppl I think go into buy one car and end up buying another without knowing anything about it.
Not had any issues with mine, no problems with the engine flooding, no over use of oil, this car is serious fun, once you go rotary....
As mentioned previously just be sure to get a well looked after version with full service history. The servicing really should be done by Mazda or a rotary specialist.
A few things to check- there have been a few recalls. Make sure these have been done. One of them was the oil cooling pipes. I forget which years were affected by this, but a quick phone call to a Mazda dealer will tell you if a specific car has any outstanding recalls.
Someone has mentioned the CD changer. It is not unusual for these to break, however it is a £700-800 fix from Mazda. I had mine done under warranty, and if it wasn't covered I would have bought the unit (£250ish) and changed it myself. That is the cost of the CD changer itself, not the whole stereo (before anyone asks).
The coil packs are prone to overheat, so will need changing every 30-40k miles. These are absolutely critical, and whilst they may last much longer than this, they can also cause engine issues if left unfixed. You can pick these up for around £200 and they are very easy to change.
Finally, starting the car- check that the car fires up from cold pretty much immediately. If it doesn't, then it may be a new starter motor (older models had a slower motor), battery or the coils. After a drive the engine should be nice and warm. Turn the engine off, wait around 30 seconds and try to start the car again. If there is a hesitation, walk away from the car. Go to the owners club and search 'warm start issues', you don't want these.
Check the differences between the 231 and 192 models- there are a few more toys on the 231 and it is slightly faster in a straight line. But it also has 6 gears, so it can be harder work (changing up and down all the time) driving around town. What I'm trying to say here is- don't just go for the 231 because it has more power. You won't be disappointed with either version.
A few things to check- there have been a few recalls. Make sure these have been done. One of them was the oil cooling pipes. I forget which years were affected by this, but a quick phone call to a Mazda dealer will tell you if a specific car has any outstanding recalls.
Someone has mentioned the CD changer. It is not unusual for these to break, however it is a £700-800 fix from Mazda. I had mine done under warranty, and if it wasn't covered I would have bought the unit (£250ish) and changed it myself. That is the cost of the CD changer itself, not the whole stereo (before anyone asks).
The coil packs are prone to overheat, so will need changing every 30-40k miles. These are absolutely critical, and whilst they may last much longer than this, they can also cause engine issues if left unfixed. You can pick these up for around £200 and they are very easy to change.
Finally, starting the car- check that the car fires up from cold pretty much immediately. If it doesn't, then it may be a new starter motor (older models had a slower motor), battery or the coils. After a drive the engine should be nice and warm. Turn the engine off, wait around 30 seconds and try to start the car again. If there is a hesitation, walk away from the car. Go to the owners club and search 'warm start issues', you don't want these.
Check the differences between the 231 and 192 models- there are a few more toys on the 231 and it is slightly faster in a straight line. But it also has 6 gears, so it can be harder work (changing up and down all the time) driving around town. What I'm trying to say here is- don't just go for the 231 because it has more power. You won't be disappointed with either version.
Edited by STW2010 on Monday 22 November 07:54
STW2010 said:
As mentioned previously just be sure to get a well looked after version with full service history. The servicing really should be done by Mazda or a rotary specialist.
A few things to check- there have been a few recalls. Make sure these have been done. One of them was the oil cooling pipes. I forget which years were affected by this, but a quick phone call to a Mazda dealer will tell you if a specific car has any outstanding recalls.
Someone has mentioned the CD changer. It is not unusual for these to break, however it is a £700-800 fix from Mazda. I had mine done under warranty, and if it wasn't covered I would have bought the unit (£250ish) and changed it myself. That is the cost of the CD changer itself, not the whole stereo (before anyone asks).
The coil packs are prone to overheat, so will need changing every 30-40k miles. These are absolutely critical, and whilst they may last much longer than this, they can also cause engine issues if left unfixed. You can pick these up for around £200 and they are very easy to change.
Finally, starting the car- check that the car fires up from cold pretty much immediately. If it doesn't, then it may be a new starter motor (older models had a slower motor), battery or the coils. After a drive the engine should be nice and warm. Turn the engine off, wait around 30 seconds and try to start the car again. If there is a hesitation, walk away from the car. Go to the owners club and search 'warm start issues', you don't want these.
Check the differences between the 231 and 192 models- there are a few more toys on the 231 and it is slightly faster in a straight line. But it also has 6 gears, so it can be harder work (changing up and down all the time) driving around town. What I'm trying to say here is- don't just go for the 231 because it has more power. You won't be disappointed with either version.
what sort of realistic combined mpg do you get. In the S60 im getting about 24 mpg combined but only do about 5-6k a year so not to bothered...A few things to check- there have been a few recalls. Make sure these have been done. One of them was the oil cooling pipes. I forget which years were affected by this, but a quick phone call to a Mazda dealer will tell you if a specific car has any outstanding recalls.
Someone has mentioned the CD changer. It is not unusual for these to break, however it is a £700-800 fix from Mazda. I had mine done under warranty, and if it wasn't covered I would have bought the unit (£250ish) and changed it myself. That is the cost of the CD changer itself, not the whole stereo (before anyone asks).
The coil packs are prone to overheat, so will need changing every 30-40k miles. These are absolutely critical, and whilst they may last much longer than this, they can also cause engine issues if left unfixed. You can pick these up for around £200 and they are very easy to change.
Finally, starting the car- check that the car fires up from cold pretty much immediately. If it doesn't, then it may be a new starter motor (older models had a slower motor), battery or the coils. After a drive the engine should be nice and warm. Turn the engine off, wait around 30 seconds and try to start the car again. If there is a hesitation, walk away from the car. Go to the owners club and search 'warm start issues', you don't want these.
Check the differences between the 231 and 192 models- there are a few more toys on the 231 and it is slightly faster in a straight line. But it also has 6 gears, so it can be harder work (changing up and down all the time) driving around town. What I'm trying to say here is- don't just go for the 231 because it has more power. You won't be disappointed with either version.
Edited by STW2010 on Monday 22 November 07:54
with regards to reliability will look for a decent one with FSH; but looking at that site Mazda's reputation for reliability applies... only looking at keeping it for a year or so until i can afford the S60R (again, does anyone have any other suggestions for joining the 300bhp club @ 21?)
what is the 231 bhp version like on the motorway... granted, the S60 is no slouch off the line but on the motorway few car's can keep up. i know the mazda doesn't have the most torque in the world so scared that what i will gain in the B roads will be lost on the motorways; which ultimately is where i do most of my driving. Interiors; again used to armchairs and silence drowned out by a superb sound system; how does the mazda rate in that department (on a side note can p1ssed up mates fit in the back; they pretty flexible when they drunk?)...
20 mpg day to day is about right. Mid 20s on a long motorway run, high teens in traffic or short journeys. Max of perhaps 27-28 driven very gently on the motorway.
Motorway acceleration in top is perfectly adequate - think two litre turbodiesel saloon - but for full acceleration at 70, you would want to drop three gears...
Ride quality is surprisingly good.
Rear seat accommodation is very good.
Mechanical refinement is excellent.
Bose stereo is standard.
Motorway acceleration in top is perfectly adequate - think two litre turbodiesel saloon - but for full acceleration at 70, you would want to drop three gears...
Ride quality is surprisingly good.
Rear seat accommodation is very good.
Mechanical refinement is excellent.
Bose stereo is standard.
Edited by otolith on Monday 22 November 21:51
otolith said:
20 mpg day to day is about right. Mid 20s on a long motorway run, high teens in traffic or short journeys. Max of perhaps 27-28 driven very gently on the motorway.
Motorway acceleration in top is perfectly adequate - think two litre turbodiesel saloon - but for full acceleration at 70, you would want to drop three gears...
Ride quality is surprisingly good.
Rear seat accommodation is very good.
Mechanical refinement is excellent.
Bose stereo is standard.
realised my driving style on the motorway would need to change and become a lot more "revvy" but providing i can still mix it with the german executive knobheads and beat the 20 year old VTS/ST/Corsa VXR rudebois in the right hand lane when needs be i'll be happy spending 90% of my time on the left with the elephants saving the planet Motorway acceleration in top is perfectly adequate - think two litre turbodiesel saloon - but for full acceleration at 70, you would want to drop three gears...
Ride quality is surprisingly good.
Rear seat accommodation is very good.
Mechanical refinement is excellent.
Bose stereo is standard.
Edited by otolith on Monday 22 November 21:51
again, its something i plan to keep for a year just to try the sports car scene before i return to the power games...
Edited by jimbobsimmonds on Monday 22 November 21:57
Edited by jimbobsimmonds on Monday 22 November 21:57
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