Easy to change a cylinder head?
Discussion
Found a cheap Vectra with a cracked head on ebay. I dont need a second car but want something to have a play around on as i love engines and stuff.
Its a 2000 Vectra 2.2 SRi. I love those cars and was just intending to use it as a bit of a project. If i mess it up i'll just break it and sell the parts to get my money back.
I would class my mechanical knowledge as 'reasonable' but have never tried anything as big as the head before. Worth a go? Suppose ive not got that much to lose have i? :S
Its a 2000 Vectra 2.2 SRi. I love those cars and was just intending to use it as a bit of a project. If i mess it up i'll just break it and sell the parts to get my money back.
I would class my mechanical knowledge as 'reasonable' but have never tried anything as big as the head before. Worth a go? Suppose ive not got that much to lose have i? :S
Can't speak for this specific model, however it is overhead cam and will need locked at TDC i think. The task itself is simple enough, where your costs start to mount up is replacing gaskets, cam belt and tensioners(if required), and of course any repairs required to the head before refitting.
A good workshop manual and some patience will see you through.
Good luck.
A good workshop manual and some patience will see you through.
Good luck.
Again, cannot speak for this specific car, but if you're a methodical sort of person, who likes to take the time to research and do a job properly, then I'd say go for it.
This sort of thing used to scare the hell out of me, but I'm one who like to know how everything works. Years ago, in my late teens, I decided to strip the top-end and do a decoke/replace valve oil seals on an old Cavalier. I read the Haynes manual, made sure I had all the appropriate tools (borrowed some of the specialist ones) and did the job alone, on the front drive.
Went one step further with a Pug 405 a few years later, removing the head and the cylinder liners and replacing the seals, piston rings, valve oil seals, gaskets, belts, etc.
It helps if you have somewhere to work undercover and in the warm. It's also good if you have use of another car and can afford to have yours off the road for a couple of days.
This sort of thing used to scare the hell out of me, but I'm one who like to know how everything works. Years ago, in my late teens, I decided to strip the top-end and do a decoke/replace valve oil seals on an old Cavalier. I read the Haynes manual, made sure I had all the appropriate tools (borrowed some of the specialist ones) and did the job alone, on the front drive.
Went one step further with a Pug 405 a few years later, removing the head and the cylinder liners and replacing the seals, piston rings, valve oil seals, gaskets, belts, etc.
It helps if you have somewhere to work undercover and in the warm. It's also good if you have use of another car and can afford to have yours off the road for a couple of days.
I would describe my mechanical knowledge as 'reasonable' too. I'd never removed a cylinder head before so I bought a Fiat Seicento with head gasket failure for £50 and set about sorting it out.
Essentially it's a pretty straight forward job. Get a decent guide off the net or have a Haynes manual to hand, and take lots of photos as you take it all apart to refer to when you put it back together. As someone has said above, there is quite a lot of expense in all the bits you don't expect like gaskets, head bolts, head skimming, cam belts and tensioners and even things like grinding paste if you don't have it already. I also made the mistake of buying a car with no tax or mot, which caused further expense with bits like brakes and a new windscreen.
In the end it cost me £600 all up and I sold it for £480. But £120 is cheap for the extra knowledge and experience I gained from doing it, so I'm happy. Go for it.
Essentially it's a pretty straight forward job. Get a decent guide off the net or have a Haynes manual to hand, and take lots of photos as you take it all apart to refer to when you put it back together. As someone has said above, there is quite a lot of expense in all the bits you don't expect like gaskets, head bolts, head skimming, cam belts and tensioners and even things like grinding paste if you don't have it already. I also made the mistake of buying a car with no tax or mot, which caused further expense with bits like brakes and a new windscreen.
In the end it cost me £600 all up and I sold it for £480. But £120 is cheap for the extra knowledge and experience I gained from doing it, so I'm happy. Go for it.
Cheers guys, might go for it in that case 
On the auction, it says it is still driveable, and its two hours away. The seller describes it as coolant found in the well of the 4th spark plug.
Would it be advisable to drive it, around 100 miles at a slow pace and just keep an eye on it?
I know the ideal option is a tow, but thats further expense but is it worth a gamble?
The seller is also throwing in a vaxuahll technical service manual on disc too.
On the auction, it says it is still driveable, and its two hours away. The seller describes it as coolant found in the well of the 4th spark plug.
Would it be advisable to drive it, around 100 miles at a slow pace and just keep an eye on it?
I know the ideal option is a tow, but thats further expense but is it worth a gamble?
The seller is also throwing in a vaxuahll technical service manual on disc too.
Edited by Acheron on Tuesday 23 November 19:17
We had the job of replacing a 2.2 timing and balancing shaft chain into today. Looking for information threw up this:
http://www.z22se.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&am...
It's quite a good read.
http://www.z22se.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&am...
It's quite a good read.
Acheron said:
Cheers guys, might go for it in that case
On the auction, it says it is still driveable, and its two hours away. The seller describes it as coolant found in the well of the 4th spark plug.
Would it be advisable to drive it, around 100 miles at a slow pace and just keep an eye on it?
I know the ideal option is a tow, but thats further expense but is it worth a gamble?
The seller is also throwing in a vaxuahll technical service manual on disc too.
What I'd do is take the lid off the expansion tank so the cooling system doesn't pressurise, then drive it back slowly on back roads keeping an eye on the temperature gauge and how much warm air is coming out of the heater. As long as there were no signs of the water getting into the oil, that is.On the auction, it says it is still driveable, and its two hours away. The seller describes it as coolant found in the well of the 4th spark plug.
Would it be advisable to drive it, around 100 miles at a slow pace and just keep an eye on it?
I know the ideal option is a tow, but thats further expense but is it worth a gamble?
The seller is also throwing in a vaxuahll technical service manual on disc too.
Changing a head is easy enough, the hard part is usually rusted up nuts on the exhaust. Apart from that it's just the usual things-you-can't-get-at sort of problem that you get with any job.
doogz said:
I'd like to add, to taking lots of pictures, when you unplug a sensor/hose/lead, wrap a bit of tape around it, and write on it either what it is, or where you unplugged it from.
Makes putting it back together, especially when you're unfamiliar with that particular engine, much easier. You might unplug it and think "I'll not forget where that came from" but 2 days later, when your out in the garage at 11 at night trying to finish the job, it can be f-ing annoying!
Good advice. I did this and although when fully dismantled the engine bay looked like a ticker-tape parade, I was able to put everything back with confindence. Makes putting it back together, especially when you're unfamiliar with that particular engine, much easier. You might unplug it and think "I'll not forget where that came from" but 2 days later, when your out in the garage at 11 at night trying to finish the job, it can be f-ing annoying!
Well, i won the auction, the car is mine 
Its 130 miles from my place to where the car is. What is the safest bet and cheapest way of getting it to me? I could maybe get someone to give me a lift but its not totally practical at the moment.
Failing that its either train down there (£50) and drive it back (cost of fuel and a days insurance), or pay someone to put it on a low loader and bring it to me.
Best idea anyone?
Its 130 miles from my place to where the car is. What is the safest bet and cheapest way of getting it to me? I could maybe get someone to give me a lift but its not totally practical at the moment.
Failing that its either train down there (£50) and drive it back (cost of fuel and a days insurance), or pay someone to put it on a low loader and bring it to me.
Best idea anyone?
Edited by Acheron on Wednesday 24th November 19:11
They are really easy to get the head on and off,you wont go wrong with that,chain is easy too,they have three links that have different colors on two for the cams and one for the crank you can not really get it wrong,i have done a few of these now. they look a lot worse than they look 
Acheron said:
Well, i won the auction, the car is mine
Its 130 miles from my place to where the car is. What is the safest bet and cheapest way of getting it to me? I could maybe get someone to give me a lift but its not totally practical at the moment.
Failing that its either train down there (£50) and drive it back (cost of fuel and a days insurance), or pay someone to put it on a low loader and bring it to me.
Best idea anyone?
Where in the world are you? A truck or car trailer is the easiest and safest option.Its 130 miles from my place to where the car is. What is the safest bet and cheapest way of getting it to me? I could maybe get someone to give me a lift but its not totally practical at the moment.
Failing that its either train down there (£50) and drive it back (cost of fuel and a days insurance), or pay someone to put it on a low loader and bring it to me.
Best idea anyone?
Edited by Acheron on Wednesday 24th November 19:11
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