Discussion
Jimmyarm said:
I can't make that diagram out. It seems to suggest that the fuel line goes on to the (threaded) end but the cap (with a ball inside?) also goes there. Clearly that can't be so but..............Oh Jimmy, don't take this the wrong way but if you're fiddling with the fuel rail mind your eyes. The pressure is enough to squirt fuel a couple of feet.
Edited by Flintstone on Wednesday 11th May 00:28
The nut (will ball bearing) goes on the end- the plastic shroud running along the engine does (from memory) have a hinged bit at the end to give access.
The pipe (11 on that diagram) comes from the side. As others have said, its a coincidence to say its not related, so start to see if its blocked. Without running the engine, remove this nut slowly and see if fuel leaks out.
There is also a large fuel filter up by the rear suspension which could get clogged and might be worth replacing.
The pipe (11 on that diagram) comes from the side. As others have said, its a coincidence to say its not related, so start to see if its blocked. Without running the engine, remove this nut slowly and see if fuel leaks out.
There is also a large fuel filter up by the rear suspension which could get clogged and might be worth replacing.
chris burman said:
I cut out the defective part and put in a new flexible line it doesn't leak why
Just that the fuel is under a lot of pressure at that point and I had a feeling you may have done exactly that. Hopefully you'll have bought some proper high pressure injection fuel pipe like this:
rather than something more like this?:
They're both bodges; the first is a bit ho-hum, but I've done it in the past as an emergency short-term repair when my Range Rover sprung a massive leak. The second option (even using the kind of pipe that would be fine with carburettors) is dodgy.
A much better repair (particularly in an exposed location under the car) would be to replace the whole run of metal pipe from front to back. Microbore central heating pipe is just the ticket for this and only costs a few quid from the DIY shop.
why is the first repair using porper fuel hose a bodge?
There are many cars with bits of rubber hose joined into the fuel systems on supply and return sides,if the hose is fitted properly with clips it will be just as good as the steel it replaced.
Even if the whole pipe was replaced there will still be a rubber pipe at either end to fix it to the fuel rail and tank/sender.
OP if you need to change the pipe hgv airline is better for fuel line,it bends easily without kinking,is light,cheap,impervious to fuels and unlike metal pipe reforms perfectly after crushing,or squashing.
There are many cars with bits of rubber hose joined into the fuel systems on supply and return sides,if the hose is fitted properly with clips it will be just as good as the steel it replaced.
Even if the whole pipe was replaced there will still be a rubber pipe at either end to fix it to the fuel rail and tank/sender.
OP if you need to change the pipe hgv airline is better for fuel line,it bends easily without kinking,is light,cheap,impervious to fuels and unlike metal pipe reforms perfectly after crushing,or squashing.
Depends on the location - tucked above a chassis rail might be OK, but under the car where it might be struck by debris perhaps not. The rubber pipe is much thicker, which doesn't help.
I thought it was a really horrible bodge when I did it, especially given that the metal fuel pipes were in less than perfect condition!
I thought it was a really horrible bodge when I did it, especially given that the metal fuel pipes were in less than perfect condition!
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