So these MX5 things.....
Discussion
After getting my hard earned bonus this month I’ve been considering getting a car that I can use for my winter commute instead of the bike. I don’t need a boot, 4 seats, basically anything hugely practical. Just something that won’t cost the earth to run.
This had me thinking of getting a little shed that would get me from A to B. However you can’t come onto GG without at least every other post mentioning an MX5 so this got me thinking that this could potentially be a good purchase. Other than winter it wouldn’t get used much if it was any other car but I can imagine using one of these for some summer fun too. I’m used to riding bikes in winter so not too fussed about that side of things (don’t know how cold a soft top is vs a hardtop as I’ve never been in one) although I do see that they come up with hardtops now and again.
So would a 15+ year old car do this job for me? In the MK1 as I understand it you have the 1.6 and 1.8 UK models and the imports. The UK 1.6 is a bit diluted at around 90bhp while the import had 115bhp? Which is the better buy? Most obvious advantage to the 1.6 would be keeping it in the lower road tax bracket. Budget is about £1500 would have been 2k but have just had some expensive bike bills.
This had me thinking of getting a little shed that would get me from A to B. However you can’t come onto GG without at least every other post mentioning an MX5 so this got me thinking that this could potentially be a good purchase. Other than winter it wouldn’t get used much if it was any other car but I can imagine using one of these for some summer fun too. I’m used to riding bikes in winter so not too fussed about that side of things (don’t know how cold a soft top is vs a hardtop as I’ve never been in one) although I do see that they come up with hardtops now and again.
So would a 15+ year old car do this job for me? In the MK1 as I understand it you have the 1.6 and 1.8 UK models and the imports. The UK 1.6 is a bit diluted at around 90bhp while the import had 115bhp? Which is the better buy? Most obvious advantage to the 1.6 would be keeping it in the lower road tax bracket. Budget is about £1500 would have been 2k but have just had some expensive bike bills.
andrew311 said:
In the MK1 as I understand it you have the 1.6 and 1.8 UK models and the imports. The UK 1.6 is a bit diluted at around 90bhp while the import had 115bhp?
Not quite right chap. All 1.6 cars were 114bhp until the 1.8 was launched in '94. The 1.8 had 132bhp so they then 'detuned' the 1.6 at that time to differentiate it more from the 1.8. So... all pre-94 1.6 cars are 114bhp. I'd avoid Post '94 1.6s, not enough power.andrew311 said:
Which is the better buy?
My money would go with an imported 1.8, a budget of 1.5-2k is ample to pick up a decent one. Main thing to watch out for is rust on the rear arches and sills.Go for an import. LSDs are standard on, well certainly the 1.8 imports, possibly all of them(?) and you stand far more chance of getting one with goodies like lowered final drive, chassis bracing, uprated suspension and so on. The array of special editions is bewildering. When I had mine I found no evidence of the higher insurance premiums or inferior rust protection that the imports are rumoured to have. Personally I think that's just something made up by people with the 88bhp UK 1.6s. 
I suppose it's worth emphasising that virtually any car will feel pedestrian after a big bike and the MX5 certainly isn't one of the quicker sports cars in a straight line! It is, however, affordable to run, watertight (which isn't always the case for a convertible), tolerably practical (again, not always the case) and great fun to drive.
Other cars to consider... Well it depends on your budget, but the various iterations of the Toyota MR2 spring to mind. Less luggage space and not as flattering on the limit, but arguably sharper to drive and better value.
I suppose it's worth emphasising that virtually any car will feel pedestrian after a big bike and the MX5 certainly isn't one of the quicker sports cars in a straight line! It is, however, affordable to run, watertight (which isn't always the case for a convertible), tolerably practical (again, not always the case) and great fun to drive.
Other cars to consider... Well it depends on your budget, but the various iterations of the Toyota MR2 spring to mind. Less luggage space and not as flattering on the limit, but arguably sharper to drive and better value.
Also if you get a 1.8 give it a good service at an MX5 specialist - quite often the cam sensor o-ring (cheap fix) leaks oil but its a quick cheap fix but if left can split the heater hoses as it drips hot oil (happened to me).
This has pretty much all the answers if your buying one:
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/t/425.aspx
This has pretty much all the answers if your buying one:
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/t/425.aspx
The following is just a very high level overview.
Which Mk1 you go for is a matter of personal choice really. They were all built on the same production lines and, aside from minor spec/trim differences, all markets around the world got the same car whether it was badged MX-5, Roadster, Miata, etc.
You've got a choice of two engine sizes, 1.6 & 1.8. Some later UK 1.6 cars had as little as 90bhp but the earlier ones had a fair bit more. The Japanese cars were never fitted with the lower powered variant of the 1.6. The 1.8 does offer a little more go but there are other benefits like better chassis bracing, bigger brakes, etc (although nothing that can't be retro-fitted to a 1.6).
I haven't owned one for a while now but from memory the Japanese 1.8 models from 1995 onwards came with a proper Torsen LSD etc which UK cars never had. There are other features like air con (which, while hardly essential, is handy for demisting the screen in winter).
Japanese shaken tests (broadly equivalent to our MOTs) mean that general roadworthiness standards are often better than cars from the UK. Additionally, the bodywork can be in better condition as the Japanese don't salt their roads (although some of the imports have been in the UK a long time now so you should still check carefully for rust). The average annual mileage seems lower in Japan too. While evidence of servicing rarely accompanies the cars on their journey over here, it doesn't necessarily mean they haven't been serviced. If the was still in Japan when it hit 100,000km, check that there is a silver sticker at the front of the cam cover with a mileage figure on it - this tells you when the cambelt was changed.
Common areas where problems can occur include:
Bodywork - rust is the main concern. Check the rear wheel arches/sills.
Electric windows - prone to slowing or sticking.
Noisy tappets - for a few minutes after start up this is fine, if it continues, investigate further.
Dampness in the boot - often because the plastic rail that the base of the hood sits in has perished.
Hood damage - they don't last forever but damage should be obvious.
Usually the above are neither difficult nor expensive to rectify.
There were plenty of Japanese special editions to chose from - some, like the V-Special had leather & wood if you like that sort of thing, others like the RS-Ltd had kevlar bucket seats and Bilstein suspension.
I'm not trying to put you off UK cars, I just think that because of the excellent reliability of the MX-5, the main advantage of UK cars (service history) isn't as vital as it would be if we were talking about some hand built Italian V12.
Personally I'd get a post 1995 1.8 Eunos Roadster but whichever model you go for, you'll get a reliable, simple to maintain, fun, cheap, great handling car!
There's an MX-5 sub forum here that has a more detailed buying guide, plenty of other useful info and people who know far more than I do about these cars.
Which Mk1 you go for is a matter of personal choice really. They were all built on the same production lines and, aside from minor spec/trim differences, all markets around the world got the same car whether it was badged MX-5, Roadster, Miata, etc.
You've got a choice of two engine sizes, 1.6 & 1.8. Some later UK 1.6 cars had as little as 90bhp but the earlier ones had a fair bit more. The Japanese cars were never fitted with the lower powered variant of the 1.6. The 1.8 does offer a little more go but there are other benefits like better chassis bracing, bigger brakes, etc (although nothing that can't be retro-fitted to a 1.6).
I haven't owned one for a while now but from memory the Japanese 1.8 models from 1995 onwards came with a proper Torsen LSD etc which UK cars never had. There are other features like air con (which, while hardly essential, is handy for demisting the screen in winter).
Japanese shaken tests (broadly equivalent to our MOTs) mean that general roadworthiness standards are often better than cars from the UK. Additionally, the bodywork can be in better condition as the Japanese don't salt their roads (although some of the imports have been in the UK a long time now so you should still check carefully for rust). The average annual mileage seems lower in Japan too. While evidence of servicing rarely accompanies the cars on their journey over here, it doesn't necessarily mean they haven't been serviced. If the was still in Japan when it hit 100,000km, check that there is a silver sticker at the front of the cam cover with a mileage figure on it - this tells you when the cambelt was changed.
Common areas where problems can occur include:
Bodywork - rust is the main concern. Check the rear wheel arches/sills.
Electric windows - prone to slowing or sticking.
Noisy tappets - for a few minutes after start up this is fine, if it continues, investigate further.
Dampness in the boot - often because the plastic rail that the base of the hood sits in has perished.
Hood damage - they don't last forever but damage should be obvious.
Usually the above are neither difficult nor expensive to rectify.
There were plenty of Japanese special editions to chose from - some, like the V-Special had leather & wood if you like that sort of thing, others like the RS-Ltd had kevlar bucket seats and Bilstein suspension.
I'm not trying to put you off UK cars, I just think that because of the excellent reliability of the MX-5, the main advantage of UK cars (service history) isn't as vital as it would be if we were talking about some hand built Italian V12.
Personally I'd get a post 1995 1.8 Eunos Roadster but whichever model you go for, you'll get a reliable, simple to maintain, fun, cheap, great handling car!
There's an MX-5 sub forum here that has a more detailed buying guide, plenty of other useful info and people who know far more than I do about these cars.
Edited by Risotto on Thursday 7th July 10:39
Do be aware that some insurers can get a bit funny about imports - I insured my UK car for well under £200 this year, an import would have been closer to £300.
I also don't subscribe to the theory that imports rust less - unless they've been recently imported, there's likely to be nothing in it between UK and import cars these days - most imports will have been in the UK for over 10 years now anyway.
I also don't subscribe to the theory that imports rust less - unless they've been recently imported, there's likely to be nothing in it between UK and import cars these days - most imports will have been in the UK for over 10 years now anyway.
I've had 5 of 'em, 2 1.6 and 3 1.8's.
The 1.6's were so much purer than 1.8's - the worst versions were the NB 1.8's, they were a bit crude - the best 1.8 was the 2004 MK2.5 with slightly more power but it had big wheels and tyres as standard and that made it think it was a proper fast car when really it wasn't.
Find a cared for 1.6 with reasonable miles and you won't regret it.
The 1.6's were so much purer than 1.8's - the worst versions were the NB 1.8's, they were a bit crude - the best 1.8 was the 2004 MK2.5 with slightly more power but it had big wheels and tyres as standard and that made it think it was a proper fast car when really it wasn't.
Find a cared for 1.6 with reasonable miles and you won't regret it.
andrew311 said:
...(don’t know how cold a soft top is vs a hardtop as I’ve never been in one) although I do see that they come up with hardtops now and again....
Only had mine a few weeks, but the heater seems very reliable/effective and the transmission tunnel is like a radiator, so I'm expecting it to be toasty-warm in the winter! In fact, if you're going to be running it with a hardtop when it's not that cold outside, I'd suggest you get one with aircon...To correct posts about the LSD: Any s-special based import model has one. The 1.6 has a Viscous (pretty much useless by now) and the 1.8 has a Torsen. Around 1995 the 1.8s were upgraded to Torsen Type 2 with a different ratio, but you probably wouldn't notice the difference.
Imports tend to be cheaper (apart from the more sought after special editions), but insurance is more. If you're only driving in winter, it'll probably go sideways (if you're into that kinda thing) without a limi but will require more effort - usually by standing it on it's nose under braking.
Imports tend to be cheaper (apart from the more sought after special editions), but insurance is more. If you're only driving in winter, it'll probably go sideways (if you're into that kinda thing) without a limi but will require more effort - usually by standing it on it's nose under braking.
I wont cover all the usual stuff as its all available elsewhere.
Specific to buying one as a winter/commuter car -
The hoods are good. But only if in good nick - lots are shagged, and will leak.
Leaky hood equals damp car, equals lots of demisting in winter.
They rust, badly - winter is the enemy.
If you use one over a winter with no effort put into rustproofing and regular washing of the underside, you may aswell expect it to be riddled by March.
They require concentration to drive - they twitch about, are slow unless driven hard (It wont accellerate down a sliproad in 4th/5th like a TDI, you've got to stir it), are hard work on the motorway. Many have no ABS which if your not used to it, you might find a bit alarming when the Motorway in front of you turns a sea of red and it locks up at 50mph in the fog. Easily done.
People will continously drive over you or pull out on you on motorways. You'll be permanently dazzled at night.
If it snows its going to require much more effort to travel than in a regular car - proper winter tyres needed really.
However - heater is fantastic. With roof up it can get furnace like quickly - lovely snug warm car.
I dont sugarcoat it - its not the mythical wonder-car some people seem to go on about.
I am however one of the biggest fans.
Would I rather do the same in a German TDI Saloon? Would I heck!
Specific to buying one as a winter/commuter car -
The hoods are good. But only if in good nick - lots are shagged, and will leak.
Leaky hood equals damp car, equals lots of demisting in winter.
They rust, badly - winter is the enemy.
If you use one over a winter with no effort put into rustproofing and regular washing of the underside, you may aswell expect it to be riddled by March.
They require concentration to drive - they twitch about, are slow unless driven hard (It wont accellerate down a sliproad in 4th/5th like a TDI, you've got to stir it), are hard work on the motorway. Many have no ABS which if your not used to it, you might find a bit alarming when the Motorway in front of you turns a sea of red and it locks up at 50mph in the fog. Easily done.
People will continously drive over you or pull out on you on motorways. You'll be permanently dazzled at night.
If it snows its going to require much more effort to travel than in a regular car - proper winter tyres needed really.
However - heater is fantastic. With roof up it can get furnace like quickly - lovely snug warm car.
I dont sugarcoat it - its not the mythical wonder-car some people seem to go on about.
I am however one of the biggest fans.
Would I rather do the same in a German TDI Saloon? Would I heck!
I've avoided rust on mine by doing a thorough rust proofing (A weekends work) when I first got it, and then by making sure that every week at the very least I got underneath it with a jetwash, under the arches etc etc. The salt in winter will get in and rot it otherwise.
The rust proofing was touched up in Autumn too.
I'm possibly about to buy another one, a Mk2, and the first job will be to get the car on stands, partially stripped, and a full weekend spent cleaning, converting, and covering all the underside and any damage. Well worth it in long run.
The rust proofing was touched up in Autumn too.
I'm possibly about to buy another one, a Mk2, and the first job will be to get the car on stands, partially stripped, and a full weekend spent cleaning, converting, and covering all the underside and any damage. Well worth it in long run.
snotrag said:
defblade said:
If you can get a Mk2 the glass rear screen with demister is worth its weight in gold in winter.
I have a Mk2 roof with heated window on my Mk1, Massive improvement. 
OP - Look for a Eunos (import)
Worth noting that if your commute takes in a decent amount of motorway driving anywhere windswept you will feel like the car will change lanes of its own accord in side winds.
Great cars (I had a Mk1 1.6) - also look for a drip of water onto your leg (after rain) from the hood when first braking which can be fixed by putting a thin piece of tubing through the seals. Apparently anyway, only found that out AFTER I sold the car having endured several years of wet knees!
Boot size is pretty small though...
Great cars (I had a Mk1 1.6) - also look for a drip of water onto your leg (after rain) from the hood when first braking which can be fixed by putting a thin piece of tubing through the seals. Apparently anyway, only found that out AFTER I sold the car having endured several years of wet knees!
Boot size is pretty small though...
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