Quick reply needed, RE: Brakes.
Quick reply needed, RE: Brakes.
Author
Discussion

PainTrain

Original Poster:

438 posts

189 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
I am just taking the subframe off my mini and was wondering how to take of the rear union and not get brake fluid leaking out the system? I read that you can cover the brake resevoir with a sheet of plastic under the cap, how does this work?


R11ysf

1,968 posts

211 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
If you put clingfilm over the top of the reservoir it will sort of form an airlock and stop the fluid from running out as no air can get in from the top.

You will still have to bleed the brakes when you re-assemble though.

*Al*

3,830 posts

251 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
What about a plastic cap that is very tight?Or a bit of thick plastic and a strong elastic band, but you'll still have to bleed the system but it'll stop dirt getting into your brake system.

varsas

4,075 posts

231 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
Empty the brake reservoir first. Use a piece of pipe and syphon it out (brake fluid tastes horrible, by the way). I have a plastic bottle with an airtight cap and a pipe. Squeeze bottle, put end of pipe in brake reservoir, lower bottle to below the reservoir, un-squeeze and it'll empty it for you.

Hot Dog Harrigan

3,762 posts

247 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...

Clamps on to the rubber part of brake pipe.

varsas

4,075 posts

231 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
Hot Dog Harrigan said:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...

Clamps on to the rubber part of brake pipe.
Mini's must have very odd brake pipes if that will work. Most cars have fixed copper pipes running through the car, i.e. from the master cylinder to the union at the subframe and of course you wouldn't want to crimp those. learn something every day!

S1_RS

782 posts

228 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
Bit of plastic over the top of the master cylinder then put cap back on. When you undo the brake line that connects to the rear subframe, place a plastic bag tightly over the end and hold it in place with a cable tie.

PainTrain

Original Poster:

438 posts

189 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
Cheers guys, brakes disconnected. No drama and minimal fluid loss biggrin

Hot Dog Harrigan

3,762 posts

247 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
varsas said:
Mini's must have very odd brake pipes if that will work. Most cars have fixed copper pipes running through the car, i.e. from the master cylinder to the union at the subframe and of course you wouldn't want to crimp those. learn something every day!
You gotta have some rubber somewhere to allow for movement when the wheel, calliper/hub move up & down or when the front wheels turn, if you didn't then your brakes wouldn't work for long. smile

Edited by Hot Dog Harrigan on Thursday 7th July 20:24

Fartgalen

6,928 posts

236 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
Hot Dog Harrigan said:
varsas said:
Mini's must have very odd brake pipes if that will work. Most cars have fixed copper pipes running through the car, i.e. from the master cylinder to the union at the subframe and of course you wouldn't want to crimp those. learn something every day!
You gotta have some rubber somewhere to allow for movement when the wheel, calliper/hub move up & down.
You learn something everyday Varsas wink

Petrolhead_Rich

4,659 posts

221 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
Hot Dog Harrigan said:
You gotta have some rubber somewhere to allow for movement when the wheel, calliper/hub move up & down or when the front wheels turn, if you didn't then your brakes wouldn't work for long. smile

Edited by Hot Dog Harrigan on Thursday 7th July 20:24
I think that will be between the subframe and the suspension, if he's removing the subframe then that isn't going to do much.

Besides which I really don't like the idea of clamping a rubber hose that tightly, especially not one my life depends on.....

Hot Dog Harrigan

3,762 posts

247 months

Thursday 7th July 2011
quotequote all
Petrolhead_Rich said:
I think that will be between the subframe and the suspension, if he's removing the subframe then that isn't going to do much.
You are correct. I didn't digest the op properly. smile

Petrolhead_Rich said:
Besides which I really don't like the idea of clamping a rubber hose that tightly, especially not one my life depends on.....
Standard practice with those or or the little screw up type available. They don't need to be clamped that tightly, the rubber is very soft & thick.

Petrolhead_Rich

4,659 posts

221 months

Saturday 9th July 2011
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Hot Dog Harrigan said:
Standard practice with those or or the little screw up type available. They don't need to be clamped that tightly, the rubber is very soft & thick.
yikes I think I'll stick to draining the fluid and giving it a damn good bleed!!



chunkol

7,703 posts

257 months

Saturday 9th July 2011
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I've used a plastic bag stretched over the filler opening with the cap screwed back down on it successfuly before.

TallPaul

1,524 posts

287 months

Saturday 9th July 2011
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Put something on the brake pedal so the brakes are "on". Its the basics of hydraulic braking systems, when the pedal is applying pressure, the circuit is closed so after the initial head of fluid, no more will leak out.

EDLT

15,421 posts

235 months

Saturday 9th July 2011
quotequote all
Take a rubber cap off the bleed nipple and push it over the end of the pipe. It fits perfectly (assuming the rubber is still soft) and its stops fluid leaking out.