Mk2 golf 8v or 16v?
Discussion
I have had three mk2 golf gti's . They are all reliable . 16v is the way to go , bigger brakes , anti roll bars and better spec all round. Parts are generally very cheap.
These are getting used and abused now , just look for one with a good clean shell and worry about more power later. Lots of options there. I would prefer the 20v turbo transplant
These are getting used and abused now , just look for one with a good clean shell and worry about more power later. Lots of options there. I would prefer the 20v turbo transplant
What is your budget?
A good 16v is the expensive side of the market, and if it is still indeed a factory 16v on K-JET I've found them to be less reliable than the 8v Digifant, which uses digital injection as opposed to the ancient KJET. But no doubt stock the 16v is faster with similar MPG.
Have you considered a Mk2 with say a ABF 16v (from a mk3) transplant? There is quite a lot of them around as it is a very popular swap, and you end up with everything that you'll love of a Mk2, but with more power, tuning options and enhanced reliability. There is even a number of Mk2s with the VR6 conversion, which makes a fantastic noise and has in fact been known to drop thongs from 50 paces particularly when said VR6 is 'blown.
It's important to try to find one with little rust, it seems hit and miss. I've seen some real rust buckets, but others in great condition. Best areas to check- inside fuel filler neck, sills, a pillar, inner wings, and front/rear valance if you opt for an early small bumper model. Also around the windscreen, underneath the battery tray.
As for 8v tuning, it can be done but it is expensive. There are many routes though, but if you want a fast 8v you are better of with a G60 imo. That said, a decent exhaust and manifold really makes an 8v a lot more fun to drive.
Whichever one you go for they are both great cars from that era.
A good 16v is the expensive side of the market, and if it is still indeed a factory 16v on K-JET I've found them to be less reliable than the 8v Digifant, which uses digital injection as opposed to the ancient KJET. But no doubt stock the 16v is faster with similar MPG.
Have you considered a Mk2 with say a ABF 16v (from a mk3) transplant? There is quite a lot of them around as it is a very popular swap, and you end up with everything that you'll love of a Mk2, but with more power, tuning options and enhanced reliability. There is even a number of Mk2s with the VR6 conversion, which makes a fantastic noise and has in fact been known to drop thongs from 50 paces particularly when said VR6 is 'blown.
It's important to try to find one with little rust, it seems hit and miss. I've seen some real rust buckets, but others in great condition. Best areas to check- inside fuel filler neck, sills, a pillar, inner wings, and front/rear valance if you opt for an early small bumper model. Also around the windscreen, underneath the battery tray.
As for 8v tuning, it can be done but it is expensive. There are many routes though, but if you want a fast 8v you are better of with a G60 imo. That said, a decent exhaust and manifold really makes an 8v a lot more fun to drive.
Whichever one you go for they are both great cars from that era.
I have a Mk2 16v and, until recently, also had a Mk2 8v but with a TSR Silverstone 2.1 engine which is now owned by member MDT.
Contrary to what you think, I would say parts for both are cheap, and both are reliable.
The standard 16v is a great car and loves to rev. Keeps up with traffic too. I'm currently making a few enhancements to mine. PM me if you have any questions.
The TSR car was phenomenal and is as fast or faster than lots of cars out there too. The pace was relentless with third into fourth just being a massive wall of acceleration.
I haven't driven a standard 8v, so can't comment.
I really enjoy the Golfs as parts are relatively inexpensive and they are quite straightforward mechanically.
You should get a good one for your budget.
Contrary to what you think, I would say parts for both are cheap, and both are reliable.
The standard 16v is a great car and loves to rev. Keeps up with traffic too. I'm currently making a few enhancements to mine. PM me if you have any questions.
The TSR car was phenomenal and is as fast or faster than lots of cars out there too. The pace was relentless with third into fourth just being a massive wall of acceleration.
I haven't driven a standard 8v, so can't comment.
I really enjoy the Golfs as parts are relatively inexpensive and they are quite straightforward mechanically.
You should get a good one for your budget.
Edited by Ecurie Ecosse on Friday 5th August 07:37
dabofoppo said:
Looks like id be as well going for the 16v. Is there anything i should look out for when i go and see one?
I think there was a period of time where VW used very poor quality steel for the construction which can lead to structural rust. I've seen two written off by the bulk head disintegrating. Can't remember their years of manufacture though, I'm afraid. I'd look at both 8 and 16 valve models, especially with your budget, and just buy the best one you can find out of either. I looked at some mk2 GTI's with my brother earlier this year when he was thinking of getting one and I found that there was a lot of crap out there. If you find one that is mechanically sound and without the dreaded rust you're onto s winner!
I wanted a Mk2 Golf GTI a while back, the ones I looked at were very tatty, they are old cars now and most of them have a lot of miles. Rust, rust and more rust was what I found, the paint seems to like to contract and split over those sharp crease lines, then rust just comes through. On all the ones I looked at, rust was prevalent inside the boot lid (due to perished seals I'd have thought, around the wheel arches and on the door sills.
The insurance difference between the two was shocking, the 8V seemed very reasonable, the 16V, despite not having a huge power difference on paper, was nearly £1000 a year more! I suppose being the more desirable and sportier model, there have probably been more smashed up and stolen 16Vs over the years.
The insurance difference between the two was shocking, the 8V seemed very reasonable, the 16V, despite not having a huge power difference on paper, was nearly £1000 a year more! I suppose being the more desirable and sportier model, there have probably been more smashed up and stolen 16Vs over the years.
dabofoppo said:
Im looking at buying a mk2 golf gti and im having trouble choosing between the two. I immediatly wanted a 16v but a couple of people have told me they are less reliable than the 8vs and thats parts cost a lot more. Is that true? Also does anyone know how tuneable the 8v is?
Thanks.
Thanks.
I vote this.
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3016525.htm
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3016525.htm
Edited by lordlee on Saturday 6th August 16:01
The 5 doors are a bit floppy I found, the shells on all MK2s are but especially the 5 door, also they leak water for fun but the 5 door had more doors to leak from !
Go on "Edition 38", you have to register to see the classifieds but there are some nice ones on there for sale.
Buy the best (3 door) shell you can, there are load son there with engine conversions, a lot have the 2 litre bottom end which is good, they produce 160 ish bhp which is a lot of fun in such a light car, my own pref would be a 20 vt conversion though, failing that a well sorted, non pas, 3 door with a big bore 8 valve.
Go on "Edition 38", you have to register to see the classifieds but there are some nice ones on there for sale.
Buy the best (3 door) shell you can, there are load son there with engine conversions, a lot have the 2 litre bottom end which is good, they produce 160 ish bhp which is a lot of fun in such a light car, my own pref would be a 20 vt conversion though, failing that a well sorted, non pas, 3 door with a big bore 8 valve.
8vFTW said:
What is your budget?
A good 16v is the expensive side of the market, and if it is still indeed a factory 16v on K-JET I've found them to be less reliable than the 8v Digifant, which uses digital injection as opposed to the ancient KJET. But no doubt stock the 16v is faster with similar MPG.
Have you considered a Mk2 with say a ABF 16v (from a mk3) transplant? There is quite a lot of them around as it is a very popular swap, and you end up with everything that you'll love of a Mk2, but with more power, tuning options and enhanced reliability. There is even a number of Mk2s with the VR6 conversion, which makes a fantastic noise and has in fact been known to drop thongs from 50 paces particularly when said VR6 is 'blown.
It's important to try to find one with little rust, it seems hit and miss. I've seen some real rust buckets, but others in great condition. Best areas to check- inside fuel filler neck, sills, a pillar, inner wings, and front/rear valance if you opt for an early small bumper model. Also around the windscreen, underneath the battery tray.
As for 8v tuning, it can be done but it is expensive. There are many routes though, but if you want a fast 8v you are better of with a G60 imo. That said, a decent exhaust and manifold really makes an 8v a lot more fun to drive.
Whichever one you go for they are both great cars from that era.
I've never had a major problem with a k jetronic system before other than idle control valves going and I've set up loads of them for people - they re fine provided you know how to set them up properly which, it seems based on the state of some of the systems I've set up most people don't know how to do.A good 16v is the expensive side of the market, and if it is still indeed a factory 16v on K-JET I've found them to be less reliable than the 8v Digifant, which uses digital injection as opposed to the ancient KJET. But no doubt stock the 16v is faster with similar MPG.
Have you considered a Mk2 with say a ABF 16v (from a mk3) transplant? There is quite a lot of them around as it is a very popular swap, and you end up with everything that you'll love of a Mk2, but with more power, tuning options and enhanced reliability. There is even a number of Mk2s with the VR6 conversion, which makes a fantastic noise and has in fact been known to drop thongs from 50 paces particularly when said VR6 is 'blown.
It's important to try to find one with little rust, it seems hit and miss. I've seen some real rust buckets, but others in great condition. Best areas to check- inside fuel filler neck, sills, a pillar, inner wings, and front/rear valance if you opt for an early small bumper model. Also around the windscreen, underneath the battery tray.
As for 8v tuning, it can be done but it is expensive. There are many routes though, but if you want a fast 8v you are better of with a G60 imo. That said, a decent exhaust and manifold really makes an 8v a lot more fun to drive.
Whichever one you go for they are both great cars from that era.
lordlee said:
I vote this.
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3016525.htm
this looks awesome, how much was it up for? appears to have disappeared now. http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3016525.htm
Edited by lordlee on Saturday 6th August 16:01
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