Waxoyl alternative
Discussion
Dinitrol.
http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/rust_prevention_waxes_an...
4941 is excellent.
Used it myself on a previously scabby Astra I derusted, and it seems to be used heavily by Hyundai in the factory on the OH's i30.
http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/rust_prevention_waxes_an...
4941 is excellent.
Used it myself on a previously scabby Astra I derusted, and it seems to be used heavily by Hyundai in the factory on the OH's i30.
Grey Ghost said:
The nice people who service my Chim 450 and make it go faster applied Schutz underseal to the chassis last time it was with them.
Looks like it will take some form of urban warfare to shift it
+1,Looks like it will take some form of urban warfare to shift it

My dad runs a bodyshop and we've had a few people (Mostly MX5's wanting a decent rust proofing) We use Dinitrol inside the sills and 3M schutz underneath. Seems to do the trick!
This:
http://www.rust.co.uk/dinitrol-products.cfm
Tough as boots, US military spec, can be used for cavities and as well as exposed surfaces.
http://www.rust.co.uk/dinitrol-products.cfm
Tough as boots, US military spec, can be used for cavities and as well as exposed surfaces.
Bonefish Blues said:
This:
http://www.rust.co.uk/dinitrol-products.cfm
Tough as boots, US military spec, can be used for cavities and as well as exposed surfaces.
This looks good - wax without the oilhttp://www.rust.co.uk/dinitrol-products.cfm
Tough as boots, US military spec, can be used for cavities and as well as exposed surfaces.
bonesX said:
Is it useable for wheelarches? ie will it wash off when blasted with road water like waxoyl will?
Yes, I think so, it dries to a very tough finish - we did the MX5 last autumn, and used it as our main car during the worst of the Winter (Winter tyres, see...), and even where it had been scraped along in snow and slush ridges it stayed on.Having said that, I'm might be tempted to use POR 15 http://www.por15.com/ in the arches, assuming you could get it down to clean metal so it would adhere properly, and then put this on top as extra insurance.
Bonefish Blues said:
Yes, I think so, it dries to a very tough finish - we did the MX5 last autumn, and used it as our main car during the worst of the Winter (Winter tyres, see...), and even where it had been scraped along in snow and slush ridges it stayed on.
Having said that, I'm might be tempted to use POR 15 http://www.por15.com/ in the arches, assuming you could get it down to clean metal so it would adhere properly, and then put this on top as extra insurance.
POR15 is designed to be Painted On Rust and can be a pain to work with on clean metal surfaces. You have to use the special primer and even then it sometimes doesn't adhere very well.Having said that, I'm might be tempted to use POR 15 http://www.por15.com/ in the arches, assuming you could get it down to clean metal so it would adhere properly, and then put this on top as extra insurance.
Would someone be kind enough to explain how this works to an idiot (me!)
I've recently bought a 1985 635csi, and while I don't plan on using it much over the winter it might get the odd run.
This car looks pretty good underneath, but has a few patches of areas with surface corrosion. Does this need to be ground out before using a product like Waxoyl, or does applying the waxoyl stop the rust thanks to some sort of air tight seal..?
I've recently bought a 1985 635csi, and while I don't plan on using it much over the winter it might get the odd run.
This car looks pretty good underneath, but has a few patches of areas with surface corrosion. Does this need to be ground out before using a product like Waxoyl, or does applying the waxoyl stop the rust thanks to some sort of air tight seal..?
andy665 said:
Never found anything better than the little known Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 - truly fantastic stuff as is always the case with their products
This......highest zinc content of all the ones mentioned.Just like Cuprinol's slogan, does what it says on the tin.
Rust removal and prevention in the industrial & commercial sectors is Bilt Hamber's main income, not car cleaning stuff - that's a mere sideline.
PJ S said:
This......highest zinc content of all the ones mentioned.
Just like Cuprinol's slogan, does what it says on the tin.
Rust removal and prevention in the industrial & commercial sectors is Bilt Hamber's main income, not car cleaning stuff - that's a mere sideline.
Why is the zinc so important?Just like Cuprinol's slogan, does what it says on the tin.
Rust removal and prevention in the industrial & commercial sectors is Bilt Hamber's main income, not car cleaning stuff - that's a mere sideline.
jon- said:
Would someone be kind enough to explain how this works to an idiot (me!)
I've recently bought a 1985 635csi, and while I don't plan on using it much over the winter it might get the odd run.
This car looks pretty good underneath, but has a few patches of areas with surface corrosion. Does this need to be ground out before using a product like Waxoyl, or does applying the waxoyl stop the rust thanks to some sort of air tight seal..?
some products claim to be able to just slap over the rust , id suggest you scrape back any suspect underseal with a old wood chisel , then wire wheel /grind/dremel or whatever until its nice and clean , then some good primer like an epoxy over the bare steelI've recently bought a 1985 635csi, and while I don't plan on using it much over the winter it might get the odd run.
This car looks pretty good underneath, but has a few patches of areas with surface corrosion. Does this need to be ground out before using a product like Waxoyl, or does applying the waxoyl stop the rust thanks to some sort of air tight seal..?
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