Jag X type, What to check?
Discussion
If auto boxes fail they are expensive to fix. Plus in the snow, the manual box gives you more control for using engine breaking.
The AWD transfer box will fail around 100k miles. If caught very early, you might be able to get a rebuild (£550) but if it is left too long you will need a newconditioned unit (£1000+)
The 3.0 gives better performance than the 2.5 but it gets similar MPG.
Avoid the 2.0 (its actually a 2.1) as it is thirsty and wheezy. (ETA: and only FWD!)
What you need is a 3.0 Manual car with a rebuilt/new transfer box.
Check my profile - I might know the perfect car for you!
The AWD transfer box will fail around 100k miles. If caught very early, you might be able to get a rebuild (£550) but if it is left too long you will need a newconditioned unit (£1000+)
The 3.0 gives better performance than the 2.5 but it gets similar MPG.
Avoid the 2.0 (its actually a 2.1) as it is thirsty and wheezy. (ETA: and only FWD!)
What you need is a 3.0 Manual car with a rebuilt/new transfer box.
Check my profile - I might know the perfect car for you!
Edited by FreeLitres on Sunday 9th October 10:32
If you have any specific questions about X-Types I will have a go at answering as I have owned mine for over 5 years and have researched various aspects of them throughthe Jaguar forums, etc.
The two main specifications for early cars are:
"Sport" - 15% stiffer and lower suspension, 17 or 18 inch alloys, half leather seats, NO cruise, NO reverse sensors
"SE" - More equipment, full leathers, cruise, reverse sensors, 16 or 17 inch alloys, slightly smoother ride over the bumps
The manual cars get better MPG than autos and have better performance figures. The 3.0 manual shoots from 0-62mph in just 6.6 secs but you would have to drive with zero mechanical sympathy for your clutch or transfer box to get those times!
The two main specifications for early cars are:
"Sport" - 15% stiffer and lower suspension, 17 or 18 inch alloys, half leather seats, NO cruise, NO reverse sensors
"SE" - More equipment, full leathers, cruise, reverse sensors, 16 or 17 inch alloys, slightly smoother ride over the bumps
The manual cars get better MPG than autos and have better performance figures. The 3.0 manual shoots from 0-62mph in just 6.6 secs but you would have to drive with zero mechanical sympathy for your clutch or transfer box to get those times!
The major common faults have already been mentioned. Leaking expansion tanks, and broken sun visor flaps are other common weak points. For the price you're paying I'd look at both 2.5 and 3.0 models as condition will be more important than getting to 60mph slightly quicker. Neither are exactly economical due to the cars size and weight. This is a good place for information http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=14
FreeLitres said:
If auto boxes fail they are expensive to fix. Plus in the snow, the manual box gives you more control for using engine breaking.
The AWD transfer box will fail around 100k miles. If caught very early, you might be able to get a rebuild (£550) but if it is left too long you will need a newconditioned unit (£1000+)
The 3.0 gives better performance than the 2.5 but it gets similar MPG.
Avoid the 2.0 (its actually a 2.1) as it is thirsty and wheezy. (ETA: and only FWD!)
What you need is a 3.0 Manual car with a rebuilt/new transfer box.
Check my profile - I might know the perfect car for you!
My Dads Manual 3.0's transfer box failed at just 43000 miles so I dont think you can pin point it to a milage. If you get caught for one its well north of £1000 to fix.The AWD transfer box will fail around 100k miles. If caught very early, you might be able to get a rebuild (£550) but if it is left too long you will need a newconditioned unit (£1000+)
The 3.0 gives better performance than the 2.5 but it gets similar MPG.
Avoid the 2.0 (its actually a 2.1) as it is thirsty and wheezy. (ETA: and only FWD!)
What you need is a 3.0 Manual car with a rebuilt/new transfer box.
Check my profile - I might know the perfect car for you!
Edited by FreeLitres on Sunday 9th October 10:32
Most issues have been covered pretty well. Here's what I'd add.
The problem with it is that there's so much crammed in the engine bay. Fixing one thing often means removing something else. I've got a small leak from the sump but one of the bolts that holds the sump on is covered by the transfer box so replacing it is actually quite a big job. I'll just sort it if I have to do the clutch or whatever.
With regards to the transfer box it's not the box itself that's the problem, it's the amount of oil it holds. It's only 600ml or so. It doesn't need much of a leak to lose that and the box will go bang quickly afterwards. You can't top the oil up using the filler because the filler hole is impossible to get to when everything is fitted in the car. I changed the oil in mine by topping it up through the drain hole using an adaptor and a hose pipe. The oil that came out was dirty but there wasn't any rubbish in it and there was the correct amount so I'm confident that it'll be ok for some miles to come.
The rear suspension is quite complicated so I'd make sure there are no squeaks or bangs coming from that. Luckily the various links are all fairly cheap so it's not worth worrying about too much but definitely a negotiating point.
I didn't try the auto so I can't comment on that but I will say that the 3 litres I tried felt a lot keener to go than the 2.5 litres. They felt lethargic to me, a lot more so than the numbers suggest. The economy is meant to be similar so if everything else is equal I'd always go with the 3 litre.
If you're buying it with awd in mind then be aware that the transfer box loses the viscous coupling in about 2004 so you'll want an earlier one than that.
Finally check the air conditioning as it's common for it not to work.
I'd recommend one. I'm really pleased with mine, particularly given how little it cost.
The problem with it is that there's so much crammed in the engine bay. Fixing one thing often means removing something else. I've got a small leak from the sump but one of the bolts that holds the sump on is covered by the transfer box so replacing it is actually quite a big job. I'll just sort it if I have to do the clutch or whatever.
With regards to the transfer box it's not the box itself that's the problem, it's the amount of oil it holds. It's only 600ml or so. It doesn't need much of a leak to lose that and the box will go bang quickly afterwards. You can't top the oil up using the filler because the filler hole is impossible to get to when everything is fitted in the car. I changed the oil in mine by topping it up through the drain hole using an adaptor and a hose pipe. The oil that came out was dirty but there wasn't any rubbish in it and there was the correct amount so I'm confident that it'll be ok for some miles to come.
The rear suspension is quite complicated so I'd make sure there are no squeaks or bangs coming from that. Luckily the various links are all fairly cheap so it's not worth worrying about too much but definitely a negotiating point.
I didn't try the auto so I can't comment on that but I will say that the 3 litres I tried felt a lot keener to go than the 2.5 litres. They felt lethargic to me, a lot more so than the numbers suggest. The economy is meant to be similar so if everything else is equal I'd always go with the 3 litre.
If you're buying it with awd in mind then be aware that the transfer box loses the viscous coupling in about 2004 so you'll want an earlier one than that.
Finally check the air conditioning as it's common for it not to work.
I'd recommend one. I'm really pleased with mine, particularly given how little it cost.
Crawl under it and stick your fingers up under the plastic voers on the sills. The sills can rot out alarmingly if dirt has accumulated. Mine is a 2002 and I recently took the covers off to find......just a little sruface rust. All cleaned up and sealed now.
Mine is a 3.0 manual with 68k on the clock and the transfer box has just started whining. Getting the cash together to have it seen to as son as I can.
Economy wise - in town 21-22mpg
Motorway at indicated 65 - around 40mpg (yes really and done it over hndreds of miles)
Motorway at inidcated 75 - around 35-36mpg
Performance is ample quite frankly. I find it on a par with my old 540i and very pleasing. Seats are very comfy and it's a smooth ride (se model).
Mine is a 3.0 manual with 68k on the clock and the transfer box has just started whining. Getting the cash together to have it seen to as son as I can.
Economy wise - in town 21-22mpg
Motorway at indicated 65 - around 40mpg (yes really and done it over hndreds of miles)
Motorway at inidcated 75 - around 35-36mpg
Performance is ample quite frankly. I find it on a par with my old 540i and very pleasing. Seats are very comfy and it's a smooth ride (se model).
Six Fiend said:
Economy wise - in town 21-22mpg
Motorway at indicated 65 - around 40mpg (yes really and done it over hndreds of miles)
Motorway at inidcated 75 - around 35-36mpg
Performance is ample quite frankly. I find it on a par with my old 540i and very pleasing. Seats are very comfy and it's a smooth ride (se model).
I can confirm all of that (we've even got a 540 Touring to compare it against), although your mpg figures on the motorway are a couple of mpg better than I manage at those speeds. The seats are fantastic. Mine are heated too which is a bonus when you hop in when it's cold outside.Motorway at indicated 65 - around 40mpg (yes really and done it over hndreds of miles)
Motorway at inidcated 75 - around 35-36mpg
Performance is ample quite frankly. I find it on a par with my old 540i and very pleasing. Seats are very comfy and it's a smooth ride (se model).
Interesting about the rust under the plastic sill protectors. I must look under mine!
The viscous couple on the X Type is like a limited slip diff on a sports car except on these it's front to back rather than side to side. What it means is that if one wheel starts to slip you don't lose all of your torque through spinning that wheel up. For example with a viscous coupling between the front and back axles if your front left wheel starts to spin you will still get a strong turning force on the rear wheels. Without it you would get next to no force on any of the non-spinning wheels. Even if neither wheel on the front axle had any traction you'd still be able to turn the rear wheels and move, and vice versa if the rear wheels were spinning for that matter.
Put simply I see very little point in carrying around the awd stuff if it is possible to defeat it with only one wheel spinning so I wouldn't buy one without it. I bought mine just before the snow last year and it was very capable in those conditions. Not as good as a car with proper winter tyres but it's good for what it is.
gingerpaul said:
Six Fiend said:
Economy wise - in town 21-22mpg
Motorway at indicated 65 - around 40mpg (yes really and done it over hndreds of miles)
Motorway at inidcated 75 - around 35-36mpg
Performance is ample quite frankly. I find it on a par with my old 540i and very pleasing. Seats are very comfy and it's a smooth ride (se model).
I can confirm all of that (we've even got a 540 Touring to compare it against), although your mpg figures on the motorway are a couple of mpg better than I manage at those speeds. The seats are fantastic. Mine are heated too which is a bonus when you hop in when it's cold outside.Motorway at indicated 65 - around 40mpg (yes really and done it over hndreds of miles)
Motorway at inidcated 75 - around 35-36mpg
Performance is ample quite frankly. I find it on a par with my old 540i and very pleasing. Seats are very comfy and it's a smooth ride (se model).
Interesting about the rust under the plastic sill protectors. I must look under mine!
Have a look here regarding the sills:
http://www.kelsey-forums.co.uk/cgi-bin/jwm/YaBB.pl...
But don't have sleepless nights...(Crimewatch style moment)
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