Rust treatment
Author
Discussion

Roger Dodger

Original Poster:

12,423 posts

215 months

Monday 21st November 2011
quotequote all
Evening all,

I'm going to pick up something to treat some rust.

Which is the best around at the mo? Last time I used Kurust - wasn't brilliant.


Cheers!

PJ S

10,842 posts

248 months

Monday 21st November 2011
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m444ttb

3,176 posts

250 months

Monday 21st November 2011
quotequote all
PJ S said:
After research I would have to say +1!

marksx

5,168 posts

211 months

Monday 21st November 2011
quotequote all
The bilt hamber products every good, and their service is excellent. There is a lot more to rust treatment than just good products though.

Davie

5,801 posts

236 months

Monday 21st November 2011
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On a similar note, can anybody recommend the best method to remove rust from nuts, bolts, screws and so on. Mine is stripped down for a rebuild so I have loads of such parts needing cleaned up. I was told malt vinegar, however Bilt Hamber Detox-C seems like it could be the product for the task? Basically, mix a stromng solution up then chuck all the fittings in and wait 12hrs?

Cheers in advance

marksx

5,168 posts

211 months

Monday 21st November 2011
quotequote all
A weak <5% solution of citric acid is great for de rusting bolts etc. You can pick it up cheap on eBay.

Soak for 24 hour or so and brush off. Trouble is they need coating straight away it begin to rust very quickly.

Davie

5,801 posts

236 months

Monday 21st November 2011
quotequote all
marksx said:
A weak <5% solution of citric acid is great for de rusting bolts etc. You can pick it up cheap on eBay.

Soak for 24 hour or so and brush off. Trouble is they need coating straight away it begin to rust very quickly.
Never heard that one before though I have heard that malt vinegar works too?

Cheers

Neil_Sc

2,257 posts

228 months

Monday 21st November 2011
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Don't bother with the hydrate 80 (like kurust), as experience shows the rust comes back in 6 months. Deox C or the gel followed by multiple coats of Electrox zinc rich primer is the way to go and I have found it very good at resisting rust.

marksx

5,168 posts

211 months

Monday 21st November 2011
quotequote all
Davie said:
Never heard that one before though I have heard that malt vinegar works too?

Cheers
This is a good example:

http://youtu.be/ckdMdiJlV7c

Crafty_

13,827 posts

221 months

Monday 21st November 2011
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You can get POR15 from Frosts - http://www.frost.co.uk/

marksx

5,168 posts

211 months

Monday 21st November 2011
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The products I'm using on my car are in here somewhere:

http://pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f... Underseal/Fettle project&mid=128486

Although, I'm not really treating rust. I have a good base to start with. More, rust prevention.

Davie

5,801 posts

236 months

Monday 21st November 2011
quotequote all
marksx said:
This is a good example:

http://youtu.be/ckdMdiJlV7c
"...but remember hydrogen embritlement. Don't use on brake drums, car frames etc..."

So, would it be wise to use such a method on subframe, caliper carrier bolts etc?

marksx

5,168 posts

211 months

Monday 21st November 2011
quotequote all
Good point. Must watch videos to the end! I know of people that have used this method for driveshaft bolts without issue. Also people that have used it for gun parts. But that doesn't give any guarantees.

Edit - wouldn't vinegar give the same effect?

Edited by marksx on Monday 21st November 23:04

Davie

5,801 posts

236 months

Monday 21st November 2011
quotequote all
Hmmm, I shall investigate that one then.

Back on track (apologies OP) with regards to treating surface rust, or indeed surface rust on the chassis rails and welds once it's been buffed back with a wire wheel, what's the best product to paint on to kill/stop/help prevent corrosion before priming and painting? I initially thought Genolite but seems the Bilt Hamber Deox Gel could be better?

http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduction.php?cna...

It's by no means rotten, but on some of the box sections and so on I'm left with slight pitting once it's been buffed back and all the loose crap has been removed. Hence, need something to apply that will stop the remaining corrosion from breaking out through the new primer and paint.

PJ S

10,842 posts

248 months

Tuesday 22nd November 2011
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Deox is a rust remover, not inhibitor.
If you're not painting the metal afterwards, then Dynax UB or the new mastic will make for a fairly impenetable barrier.
Best phone and have a chat with Pete or John about what's the best solution to the area(s) you're tackling.

marksx

5,168 posts

211 months

Tuesday 22nd November 2011
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From what I have noticed, the mastic needs the UB over the top to provide a sound barrier. It seems a little brittle on it's own and quite easy to chip.