76k focus, fsh ... and the engine is about to go pop!

[theboymoon]

Hmmm, seems like I've lost the used car lottery this time...

So about a year and a bit ago I bought a sensible car. Head over-ruled heart.

1 owner from new, tdci focus, 54 plate, now with 76,000.

And i've just found out somehow some loose metal has got into the engine, needs a new engine and at anytime could go pop.

Apologies for the lack of technical knowledge, I only put it into the garage because of a whistling under throttle (thought maybe the turbo was on its way out). I don't doubt the garage because i've used them several times over the years. Price to replace the engine is not economical to repair

So the sensible car has bit me hardest!

Don't suppose people know what the value is? I guess not much

[Trustmeimadoctor]

i think turbo has gone pop its a known issue due to the banjo bolt getting clogged if its not serviced properly and tbh it does it sometimes even if it has. it clogs starves turbo of oil then spits its guts into engine

[Classic Grad 98]

I'd be dubious about the service history if the turbo has gone at 76k miles. Premature turbo failure can be caused by inadequate servicing (oil changes).

[Dalto123]

I'll give you a fiver Why not break it for spares? That way you may get more money for it that way rather than as a whole car.

[mwcr85]

Where has it been serviced? if it has had 10/40 rather than 5/30 fully synthetic this can cause problems.

[Billy_rfc]

So it still runs? Just whistles under acceleration? Replace turbo and the jobs a good un.

[Trustmeimadoctor]

Billy_rfc said:

So it still runs? Just whistles under acceleration? Replace turbo and the jobs a good un.

no its not as if its teh usual tdci banjo failure you need to go fish the bits out of the sump as well or turbo number 2 will go the same way very very shortly after. its a well documented problem

[Classic Grad 98]

Trustmeimadoctor said:

no its not as if its teh usual tdci banjo failure you need to go fish the bits out of the sump as well or turbo number 2 will go the same way very very shortly after. its a well documented problem

That kind of work isn't going to render the car beyond economic repair though, presumably some engine damage has already occurred?

[Mastodon2]

Classic Grad 98 said:

I'd be dubious about the service history if the turbo has gone at 76k miles. Premature turbo failure can be caused by inadequate servicing (oil changes).

Alternatively, it might have just been ragged to death by a mechanically unsympathetic owner, which would account for a knackered turbo.

[John D.]

Mate has a Corsa he's owned from new (circa 6-7yrs). Complete Vauxhall service history at supplying dealer, MOTs, everything done by them, no one else ever touched the car. Water pump st itself on 50k, engine overheated (girlfriend was driving!). Dealer wanted £2k to fit a new engine. Not even a goodwill contribution. s.

[Classic Grad 98]

Mastodon2 said:

Alternatively, it might have just been ragged to death by a mechanically unsympathetic owner, which would account for a knackered turbo.

How does hard driving kill turbos? genuine question... I understand the allowing to warm and allowing to spool down theories but what is it about plain hard driving that'll hurt it?

[ArosaMike]

Is the service history full Ford? If so, I'd take it to them and argue goodwill. Friend of mine had his Turbo blow on his Golf 1.4TSI. The engine and Supercharger had been replaced before he bought it (at 20,000 miles!) under warranty. Despite being out of warranty, because of the cars history, VW agreed to pay for the turbo replacement on goodwill and the garage stumped up 50% of the labour! It does seem to vary, garage to garage, but it's worth a try for sure, and I don't think it's unreasonable if the car has FDSH.

On a side note about water pumps.....had an intermittent, rev depended chirp coming from the Cambelt on my 08 Golf GTI, took it in to be checked over and it turned out to be a leaking waterpump with knackered bearings! Seems it's not an unusual fault and the car's only done 36,000 miles. Friendly dealer did it all under warranty including the cambelt which was due in another 6 months due to age as a sticky pump can be a big contributor to early cambelt failure! Just shows you should always get these things checked out early!

[Billy_rfc]

Classic Grad 98 said:

Trustmeimadoctor said:

no its not as if its teh usual tdci banjo failure you need to go fish the bits out of the sump as well or turbo number 2 will go the same way very very shortly after. its a well documented problem

That kind of work isn't going to render the car beyond economic repair though, presumably some engine damage has already occurred?

Exactly, hour and a half labour to remove, clean and refit sump, change oil/filter. The op states the only problem was the noice, so engine should be good.

[Trustmeimadoctor]

if you dont fix the cause of the failure what do you thinks going to happen the same thing again

http://c4owners.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.5.11...

[MGJohn]

Moral:~

ALWAYS get a second opinion from someone who knows the cars. Third opinion even as folks can get things wrong whilst not unknown for someone "in the trade" to speaketh with forked tongue or simply not fit for the job.

FACT! .... and sadly far from rare.

Let us know how things shape up ... or not ...

The highly regarded Full Service History (FSH) is no guarantee of a job well done or done at all for that matter. Doesn't happen did someone say .... Yeah ... right.
.

[Trustmeimadoctor]

and

If Turbo has failed:
Remove turbo, oil feed pipe to turbo, oil return pipe from turbo, brake vacuum pump, engine sump and oil pickup pipe/filter.

Where turbo pipe bolts to engine block, blow through engine block to clear any debris that might be in there. Fully clean the brake vacuum pump as you will find that there is swarf collected.
Fully clean out the sump along with the intercooler.
Discard the sump pickup and fit new pickup and filter.
fit new turbo oil feed and oil return pipes from turbo.
Fit new banjo bolts on oil feed pipe, but firsly remove the gauze filter that is in the banjo bolt that secures pipe to block.

fit new turbo, oil filter and good quality fully synthetic engine oil.
Use vehicle for approx 500 miles, then add oil flush as above and fit new oil and filter.

[RenesisEvo]

Trustmeimadoctor said:

if you dont fix the cause of the failure what do you thinks going to happen the same thing again

Beyond oil changes is there anything that can be done as a preventative measure? I have a 1.6 TDCi and am constantly worried that it's going to let go (on 60k now). Already had the water pump (and belts) replaced under warranty at around 46k, - was a constant squeak when idling, hot or cold.

[Billy_rfc]

Trustmeimadoctor said:

if you dont fix the cause of the failure what do you thinks going to happen the same thing again

http://c4owners.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.5.11...

Different car to the ops fella.

[RenesisEvo]

Billy_rfc said:

Different car to the ops fella.

The engine is basically the same.

[Billy_rfc]

Trustmeimadoctor said:

and

If Turbo has failed:
Remove turbo, oil feed pipe to turbo, oil return pipe from turbo, brake vacuum pump, engine sump and oil pickup pipe/filter.

Where turbo pipe bolts to engine block, blow through engine block to clear any debris that might be in there. Fully clean the brake vacuum pump as you will find that there is swarf collected.
Fully clean out the sump along with the intercooler.
Discard the sump pickup and fit new pickup and filter.
fit new turbo oil feed and oil return pipes from turbo.
Fit new banjo bolts on oil feed pipe, but firsly remove the gauze filter that is in the banjo bolt that secures pipe to block.

fit new turbo, oil filter and good quality fully synthetic engine oil.
Use vehicle for approx 500 miles, then add oil flush as above and fit new oil and filter.

Spot on, I wouldn't use flush, just give it an oil change at 500.