Stereo Wiring Conundrum
Discussion
Hi There,
I am trying to rewire my stereo back into my Rover Mini, and it doesn't seem to be going well! It is a Sony stereo and I know it works. When I wired it in, if I turn the ignition on, the radio doesnt turn on but it will accept and eject CDs, so there is power getting to it.
I wondered if I had wired the perminent and the ignition circuits in back to front, but I haven't! Looking at the loom, the only wire in the ISO connector I haven't used is this one:
When I googled it, it is called (12V output). Is this what is missing? If yes, where does it go into the loom? The only wires in the loom are perminent 12V, switched 12V and ground plus the speaker wires.
Any ideas appreciated!
I am trying to rewire my stereo back into my Rover Mini, and it doesn't seem to be going well! It is a Sony stereo and I know it works. When I wired it in, if I turn the ignition on, the radio doesnt turn on but it will accept and eject CDs, so there is power getting to it.
I wondered if I had wired the perminent and the ignition circuits in back to front, but I haven't! Looking at the loom, the only wire in the ISO connector I haven't used is this one:
When I googled it, it is called (12V output). Is this what is missing? If yes, where does it go into the loom? The only wires in the loom are perminent 12V, switched 12V and ground plus the speaker wires.
Any ideas appreciated!
Been a while since I did a stereo install, but IIRC the blue 12v output can be used to power electric ariels or as the control wire for a bass box etc. It shouldn't have any effect on the working of the stereo as you wire it in.
If you're geting power to the headunit but it's not working correctly, try re-checking all the connections (especially the earth). Have you tried to operate it with the ignition on rather that just with the key in the accessory position?
I trust you have the faceplate correctly installed on the head unit?
If you're geting power to the headunit but it's not working correctly, try re-checking all the connections (especially the earth). Have you tried to operate it with the ignition on rather that just with the key in the accessory position?
I trust you have the faceplate correctly installed on the head unit?
Mr Happy said:
If your car doesn't have a switched 12v in the block (in the position of the red wire) then you can connect the red and yellow together and it will work, albeit on permanent live. Basically you'll need to remove the front to turn the radio off.
Ok Thanks! I may do this in the mean time as I need my music! haharawkyjnr said:
Athlon said:
Yellow is permanant 12v (+30)
Red is switched 12v (+15)
Black is ground,earth,negative whatever
You have no supply to the red wire, check the fuses
Isn't it the other way round? Red is switched 12v (+15)
Black is ground,earth,negative whatever
You have no supply to the red wire, check the fuses
rawkyjnr said:
Yeah apparently Sony stereos are the opposite way round..
No they aren't - I've fitted thousands of them.Some *cars* have the 12v permanent and 12v switch reversed. Notably GM Group cars (Vauxhall, Saab etc) and VW Group cars, although that isn't a hard and fast rule as some are wired normally.
Then to add more to the mix, any PSA group car made between about 2004 to 2008 had an ISO block but multiplex wiring, which gives you no switched live (needs to be tapped from the cig lighter or fusebox). Most new stuff has CANBus wiring which requires an interface to give you a switched live (or you tap it from one of the diminishing number of ignition switched lives).
That picture above does not follow the ISO standard for wiring.
Mr Happy said:
No they aren't - I've fitted thousands of them.
Some *cars* have the 12v permanent and 12v switch reversed. Notably GM Group cars (Vauxhall, Saab etc) and VW Group cars, although that isn't a hard and fast rule as some are wired normally.
Then to add more to the mix, any PSA group car made between about 2004 to 2008 had an ISO block but multiplex wiring, which gives you no switched live (needs to be tapped from the cig lighter or fusebox). Most new stuff has CANBus wiring which requires an interface to give you a switched live (or you tap it from one of the diminishing number of ignition switched lives).
That picture above does not follow the ISO standard for wiring.
Hmm ok, the plot thickens! I must admit there were some unknown wires and small boxes added to the standard loom when I got to it. I just cut them off and tried to wire the loom straight into the ISO connector, I'll post a photo of them tomorrow! Some *cars* have the 12v permanent and 12v switch reversed. Notably GM Group cars (Vauxhall, Saab etc) and VW Group cars, although that isn't a hard and fast rule as some are wired normally.
Then to add more to the mix, any PSA group car made between about 2004 to 2008 had an ISO block but multiplex wiring, which gives you no switched live (needs to be tapped from the cig lighter or fusebox). Most new stuff has CANBus wiring which requires an interface to give you a switched live (or you tap it from one of the diminishing number of ignition switched lives).
That picture above does not follow the ISO standard for wiring.
Where can I find diagrams that follow the ISO standard?
Cheers
rawkyjnr said:
Mr Happy said:
No they aren't - I've fitted thousands of them.
Some *cars* have the 12v permanent and 12v switch reversed. Notably GM Group cars (Vauxhall, Saab etc) and VW Group cars, although that isn't a hard and fast rule as some are wired normally.
Then to add more to the mix, any PSA group car made between about 2004 to 2008 had an ISO block but multiplex wiring, which gives you no switched live (needs to be tapped from the cig lighter or fusebox). Most new stuff has CANBus wiring which requires an interface to give you a switched live (or you tap it from one of the diminishing number of ignition switched lives).
That picture above does not follow the ISO standard for wiring.
Hmm ok, the plot thickens! I must admit there were some unknown wires and small boxes added to the standard loom when I got to it. I just cut them off and tried to wire the loom straight into the ISO connector, I'll post a photo of them tomorrow! Some *cars* have the 12v permanent and 12v switch reversed. Notably GM Group cars (Vauxhall, Saab etc) and VW Group cars, although that isn't a hard and fast rule as some are wired normally.
Then to add more to the mix, any PSA group car made between about 2004 to 2008 had an ISO block but multiplex wiring, which gives you no switched live (needs to be tapped from the cig lighter or fusebox). Most new stuff has CANBus wiring which requires an interface to give you a switched live (or you tap it from one of the diminishing number of ignition switched lives).
That picture above does not follow the ISO standard for wiring.
Where can I find diagrams that follow the ISO standard?
Cheers
If you read +12v switched red (beside black) and +12v permanent on yellow (2 up from black) then that's correct.
Some manufacturers (mainly German) from my experiance have the yellow and red wires switched. In some cars the yellow will be permanant live and the red switched, in other cars the red is the permanant live and the yellow switched live.
Best thing to do is use a multi meter to see which one is permanant live, once you've found this go to the other wire and check that you have no supply with the ignition off and 12v with the ignition on.
Best thing to do is use a multi meter to see which one is permanant live, once you've found this go to the other wire and check that you have no supply with the ignition off and 12v with the ignition on.
I have done this now. I haven't learnt a lot though!
I have perminent power fine, but when I turn the ignition on 12V isn't appearing across the switched wire and the ground wire. The fuses are all intact, and I have no idea where to go next! I think I may go to an Auto Electrician as I need my immobiliser changing anyway and I suspect the issue stems from when this was fitted as the wiring is questionable in a few places...
I have perminent power fine, but when I turn the ignition on 12V isn't appearing across the switched wire and the ground wire. The fuses are all intact, and I have no idea where to go next! I think I may go to an Auto Electrician as I need my immobiliser changing anyway and I suspect the issue stems from when this was fitted as the wiring is questionable in a few places...
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