Advice on removing stuck pad from 4 pot?
Advice on removing stuck pad from 4 pot?
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R1 Indy

Original Poster:

4,482 posts

206 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
Im having problems changing the front pads on my 159.

They seem to be 4 pot calipers.

I've managed to get the one pad out by using a g clamp against the pad and the caliper which pushed the pistons back in and the pad came out.

But the other pad won't come out. I've tried the g clamp to push the pistons back. But it's just bending the pad!

I don't really want to take the caliper right off as it has a solid brake pipe so I would have to remove that drain fluids then bleed after.

Here is a pic:



So does anyone have any advice?

Cheers

R1 Indy

Original Poster:

4,482 posts

206 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
doogz said:
Solid brake pipe? Unlucky!

Sorry i have nothing further to add.
Tell me about it.

It has a flexi up to the strut, then a solid to the caliper!

What idiot thought that was a good idea?

neejah

196 posts

249 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
Put the other pad back in, and lever against the disc on the stuck pad side - take care not to bend the disc.

Think you'll need to pull the caliper TBH...you can normally bend the pipes slightly to avoid undoing them just enough to get the caliper past the disc...

thinfourth2

32,414 posts

227 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
Bite the bullet and take the calliper off as the new pads will jam up in the back thats jamming the old pad

R1 Indy

Original Poster:

4,482 posts

206 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
Yea im thinking im going to have to, as the disk won't even spin now! as the pad has bent.

I take it not too much fluid should come out?

and once its off i should be able to get a g clamp on the pistons?

Just need to make sure ive got some fluid for bleeding.

Maximum Bobs

3,762 posts

241 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
Wedge the pad back as neejah suggests but failing that take the calliper off. Clamp the flexi pipe with mole grips or similar if you don't have a proper brake pipe clamp, do not use too much force to clamp flexi pipe, remove pipe then calliper. This way you'll only need to bleed the brake you are working on.

Frances The Mute

1,816 posts

264 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
Caliper off.

It's clearly gong to need a good clean-up, anyway.

ronaldo342

126 posts

209 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
You will probably find it is jammed with rust etc on the side of the pad, bit of wd40 down the sides of the pad, use a small pinch bar with a pointed end into the hole on the pad lever or tap up the pad moving side to side to keep it square as it comes up, good luck ! oh and put something under the bar so as not to damage the other side of the caliper as you lever it, copaslip on when refitting

Edited by ronaldo342 on Friday 13th January 13:11

R1 Indy

Original Poster:

4,482 posts

206 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
I went for it and removed the caliper.

The pad was completely seized to the pistons. It took quite some force to remove it.

And there seems to be rather a lot of white gunk.

Is this normal?



Anyway I will clean it all up and reassemble.

McSam

6,753 posts

198 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
doogz said:
Solid brake pipe? Unlucky!

Sorry i have nothing further to add.
I can't be helpful either, but this was my exact thought so it rather tickled me hehe

El Capitano

1,157 posts

216 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
Id give the pistons a good clean up, wd40 around the pistons (not too much, and make sure it doesn't contaminate pads!!!) And when installing new pads, a light coat of copper grease on the back of them to stop them getting seized in again!

RobCrezz

7,892 posts

231 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
New dust seals required I would guess? Also when was the brake fluid last changed? As it absorbs water over time, which might be part of the reason you have white gunk? Just guessing here really.

neejah

196 posts

249 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
doogz said:
You must have bigger arms than me if that's something you think about when changing brakes!

but bending a vented disc?
How much distortion do you think it takes to create judder in the brakes...not difficult with a pry bar.

The white stuff is either corrosion or old brake grease...just clean it off.

CoolHands

22,187 posts

218 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
the white stuff's corrosion from our lovely salty roads. As above, some copper slip on back of pads to prevent.

R1 Indy

Original Poster:

4,482 posts

206 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
All done now (apart from bleeding)

The other side was completly corroded aswell so took apart to make life easy.

It would be so much easier if they just used a flexi hose!


Im also amazed they put the 4 pot brembos on the diesal repmobile. (it might explain why the brakes are so good lol)


Just need to find someone to help me bleed and job done.

Cheers for the advice.

Maximum Bobs

3,762 posts

241 months

Friday 13th January 2012
quotequote all
R1 Indy said:
All done now (apart from bleeding)

The other side was completly corroded aswell so took apart to make life easy.

It would be so much easier if they just used a flexi hose!


Im also amazed they put the 4 pot brembos on the diesal repmobile. (it might explain why the brakes are so good lol)


Just need to find someone to help me bleed and job done.

Cheers for the advice.
Gunson G4062 Eezibleed Kit.. About 18 quid from amazon & worth it's weight in gold.