4.7 V8 HO Jeep Grand Cheerokee
Discussion
Fancy one of these and seem to be able to pick one up for 3K. I dont do large mileage so consumption not an issue but don't want it to become a money pit. Looking at 2000 - 2003 vintages.
If I get one with recent brakes / tyres and a full ticket what are my chances of 2 years of motoring without big bills. Anybody got any experience.
Thks
Mark
If I get one with recent brakes / tyres and a full ticket what are my chances of 2 years of motoring without big bills. Anybody got any experience.
Thks
Mark
I was just looking at one of these on ebay yesterday for that same money
Only have experience of the 4.0 Cherokee myself, and that was an awesome car.
I'd expect most of the problems to be quite similar, these being electrical gremlins and air-con going, both of which can be expensive to fix if you really want them.
the electrics in the jeeps are pretty notorious. having said that though, there are quite a lot in there and you won't notice most of them breaking anyhow, such as chair movement etc.
I have seen quite a few jeeps with very oily centre diffs, so do give this a good check as well. also good to have a look down there and see if there is any damage from offroading.
Only have experience of the 4.0 Cherokee myself, and that was an awesome car.
I'd expect most of the problems to be quite similar, these being electrical gremlins and air-con going, both of which can be expensive to fix if you really want them.
the electrics in the jeeps are pretty notorious. having said that though, there are quite a lot in there and you won't notice most of them breaking anyhow, such as chair movement etc.
I have seen quite a few jeeps with very oily centre diffs, so do give this a good check as well. also good to have a look down there and see if there is any damage from offroading.
Efbe said:
I was just looking at one of these on ebay yesterday for that same money
Only have experience of the 4.0 Cherokee myself, and that was an awesome car.
Me too.Only have experience of the 4.0 Cherokee myself, and that was an awesome car.
A lex said:
- Im not up to date on the V8 engine in the WJ, but AFAIK its pretty bullet-proof.
Though looking on Ebay I see a few with damaged engines and at least one that's been replaced (V8's)I've got one. Lovely old thing. Its a 2001 4.7 V8 so not an HO
They were 2002 onwards I think?
I'm not sure I could really reccomend one though to be honest.... and with the diff problems and dodgy electrics I dont think you will get away without lumpy bill somewhere along the line.
Not without a certain charm. If I had done more research I don't think I would have bought one! I should have bought a Disco I think
They were 2002 onwards I think?
I'm not sure I could really reccomend one though to be honest.... and with the diff problems and dodgy electrics I dont think you will get away without lumpy bill somewhere along the line.
Not without a certain charm. If I had done more research I don't think I would have bought one! I should have bought a Disco I think
Ive had an 02 v8 overland for nearly a year now. Wasnt long before the exhaust mid box started blowing so gave me an excuse to decat and fit a flowmaster mid box from the states (cost £50 + fitting). Search flowmaster jeep on youtube but the sound is truly amazing!
Other than that, its needed a new rad(£1900) and new front discs and pads (£120). Had a faulty blower control unit but did a diy solder job to sort that.
Latest issues are worn ball joints (keeping it on the straight and narrow can be tricky!) and the handbrake wont latch.
Not exactly what I'd call reliable but I would say most of the issues are well documented so easy enough to fix yourself
Sound makes up for any reliabilty questions though
Other than that, its needed a new rad(£1900) and new front discs and pads (£120). Had a faulty blower control unit but did a diy solder job to sort that.
Latest issues are worn ball joints (keeping it on the straight and narrow can be tricky!) and the handbrake wont latch.
Not exactly what I'd call reliable but I would say most of the issues are well documented so easy enough to fix yourself
Sound makes up for any reliabilty questions though
Am being given the exact model you are looking at, a 4.7 Limited model which was owned and used daily by my old man until he SORNed it a couple of years back. Will be insuring for work purposes.
Things to consider are the electrics and the mpg - don't expect much more than 17-18 in mixed driving.
Ours has had the usual problems but when it isn't seriously borked it is a lovely drive - comfortable and a good high lordly position.
Oh, and the noise
Things to consider are the electrics and the mpg - don't expect much more than 17-18 in mixed driving.
Ours has had the usual problems but when it isn't seriously borked it is a lovely drive - comfortable and a good high lordly position.
Oh, and the noise
cwis said:
Tell me that's a typo!
I recall most routines services on ours nearing the four figure mark, so maybe not!Edited by Engineerino on Monday 6th February 17:42
Lifted from another forum. when I find it again I'll credit it...
The Test Drive/Common Problems
WJ Grand Cherokees are generally pretty reliable vehicles... after all, you wouldn't see them EVERYWHERE when you drive around if they were unreliable or expensive to maintain. But, like any vehicle, they are not without their faults. Here are some common issues to be aware of and some things to look into during your test drive. As with any used car, service history is important. A Pre-Purchase Inspection done by a dealer or a trusted mechanic can prove to be a good investment if you are considering buying one.
Blend Doors
Limited and Overland models (those with the dual-zone/automatic climate controle) have a 100% failure rate on the HVAC Blend Doors. These doors regulate the mix of hot and cold air and ride on thin plastic axles controlled by electronic actuators. The actuators go through a frequent self-test mode that breaks the axles that the doors ride on. While this is extremely common, it is also a very easy and inexpensive fix. There are kits available to replace the defective parts with prices ranging from $80-180. It takes about 2 hours of easy labor and is repaired through the glove box.
In addition, the recirculation door does the same self-test cycle and can break from its axle. In most cases, it just dangles there and you lose the ability to close the cabin off from outside air. In some cases, it drops down and blocks airflow completely.
On your test drive:
Cycle the heater through all of its settings. Be sure that you can get hot and cold air through BOTH sides of the dashboard vents. If you have the chance, run the HVAC diagnostics. When the doors fail, you lose the ability to get hot air through the heater. If you can't get hot air, don't pass on the vehicle if it is otherwise in good condition. This is an easy fix and also an easy way to talk $500 off the price.
Transfer Case
Models with QuadraDrive and Quadra-Trac II require special fluid for the transfer case but unfortunately, ATF+4 is often used instead (as that was the original specification in 1999). The end result is that you might notice some scrubbing sounds or binding from the front tires when you turn sharply (like in a normal parking lot manuever). Changing the fluid to the correct fluid often fixes the issue, but if it is left unresolved for a long time it can damage the transfer case. Repairs can be expensive, but swapping to the NV242 (Selec-Trac) transfer case is a cheaper alternative.
On your test drive:
Do a few sharp turns in a parking lot and see if you notice any scrubbing or hopping from the front wheels. If you have a mechanic do a Pre-Purchase Inspection, have them check the transfer case fluid. If it is red, it is the wrong fluid. It should be honey-colored. The correct fluid is only about $30 for enough to do the job and it is an easy do-it-yourself job. If you can change your oil, you can change the transfer case fluid.
Warped Brake Rotors
Early WJ models (1999-2001, early 2002) had a new dual-piston sliding caliper on the front brakes known as Teves or ATE calipers. The caliper carriers freeze up easily and then cause uneven clamping on the rotor. This usually goes unnoticed by the driver as braking performance does not suffer noticeably... but it does eventually result in warped rotors. Chrysler published a TSB on this and also released an updated brake caliper for late 2002-2004 models called "Akebono" calipers and many earlier models were upgraded to them by the dealer. They had a much stiffer caliper carrier and a design less susceptible to freezing. They do not provide any additional performance increase, just improve reliability. Regardless of what caliper you have, be sure to grease the caliper carrier sliders when you replace the brake pads/rotors.
On your test drive:
Test the brakes. Really *test* them. Find a section of empty road, prepare yourself, and do a good stop from 45-50 mph. If you notice suddering or shaking in the steering wheel, you probably have warped rotors. Visually inspect the brakes. If you have the Teves calipers, either plan on replacing them soon, or pass and look for another WJ.
Tires
One thing to consider with ANY 4WD vehicle: matching tire size is ABSOLUTELY critical. Jeep allows only 3/32" difference in tire size between front and rear. Any more and you risk damage to the transfer case and the possibility of being stuck in 4WD. Even different model tires of the same listed size can vary enough to cause damage. This is also key with your spare tire. If you change tire size, always get a matching spare tire.
On your test drive:
Look at all 4 tires. Look for irregular wear, have different tread depths, and check If any are not matching brands/models or matching sizes, pass on the vehicle. This is indicative of a vehicle that has not been cared for and is likely already damaged to the point that it would need major repairs. One forum member found this out the hard way when his front differential seized up completely on his drive home from the dealer.
Other Common Issues
Other common but relatively minor issues - some people have bad luck with power window regulators and heated seat elements. Taillight sockets can corrode and may just need the tabs bent slightly to make contact again. Axles tend to leak more often than I would like. Tire Pressure Monitoring Sensors have 7-10 year battery life and the batteries are not individually replaceable. If you are looking at a WJ with TPMS, try to find out if the sensors have been replaced. Throttle position sensors can fail and cause erratic response and shifting. Hood, liftgate, and popper glass support struts commonly fail, but again, easy and cheap to fix.
On your test drive:
Treat the WJ as if you were looking at any other used car. Check that everything works!
Despite these faults, the WJ is overall a dependable vehicle. Every used car can have problems. Buying from a private party is going to yield a better indication of what kind of vehicle you are looking at; you will get more information, some indication of service history, and slightly more honest answers than from a car dealer. Buy the best WJ you can, take care of it, and you will not be disappointed.
Test Drive Checklist
The Walk-Around
Check all panel gaps for consistent spacing and that paint colors match. This could be indicative of a vehicle that has had accident damage.
Check for dents, especially around the rocker panels, which could be a sign that the vehicle has been taken off-road.
Crawl underneath and look for dents in the undercarriage. While you are down there, look for rust around the rocker panels, skid plates, oil pan, and transmission oil pan.
Check the undersides of the doors for rust.
Have your seller operate various lights while you observe that they work. Pay special attention to the brake lights as this is common issue.
Look at the brakes through the wheels (especially the front). The upgraded Akebono caliper is on the left, the original Teves caliper on the right. Akebono is desired. Look for excessive rust.
Check that the liftgate glass opens and stays open. If it won't open, it could have a bad actuator or the strut could be rusted frozen .
Likewise, check that that liftgate opens and stays open on its own. Replacing liftgate or popper glass struts is easy but can be a sign of poor care overall.
Under the Hood: Before Driving.
Pop the hood. Does it stay open on its own? If not, it needs new hood struts.
Open the radiator cap. Any sign of oil? Is the coolant green (wrong)? Any signs of stop-leak products? (metal powder or goop)
Check the radiator overflow bottle. It should be midway full and clean.
Pop the oil filler cap. Look for a build up of milky goo (signs of a bad headgasket or cracked head). 4.7L V8s may have a slight build up here which is normal and was addressed with a revised filler tube. Check the oil dipstick to see the level and condition of the oil.
Check for signs of fluid leaks. Radiator hoses will have a build up of white residue, somewhat crystalline. Oil or power steering leaks will always appear wet. If it is at a dealer, chances are the engine bay has been steam-cleaned.
Check the air filter. The airbox is on the right side of the engine bay (US driver's side) and is held together with 4 clips. It should be clean. If its not clean, it is a sign that the seller may not have taken care of the vehicle. There are many brands of paper air filters that are all acceptable. K&N reusable air filters are also popular but offer less filtration than paper.
Pull off the rubber strip that holds on the plastic cowl cover (by the wipers). It just snaps back in place by hand. Look under the cowl cover for a build up of dead leaves and pine needles.
Check the battery terminals. They should be clean and corrosion free.
Check the battery. They should have a date code on the label for when they were installed.
Have your seller start the vehicle. Listen for abnormal rattles or sputtering on start up. Note: an electronic ticking sound from the right side of the engine bay is normal, it is part of the evap system.
On the Road
Drive around!
Listen for odd noises in the suspension. Clunks on bumps or while cornering can indicate worn suspension
Feel for looseness in the steering wheel and sloppy response or imprecise, wandering behavior.
Acceleration and shifts should be smooth, both upshifts and downshifts.
Get up to highway speeds. Roll on and off the throttle and feel for wandering side/side.
Find a parking lot. Make a few sharp turns into parking spaces and feel for scrubbing or hopping from the front axle.
If possible, find a gravel road or parking lot. Do a good stomp on the gas and see if the front tires engage and pull you away (Quadra Trac II and QuadraDrive)
Shift the transfer case. If you have Quadra-Trac II or QuadraDrive, cruise at idle, no more than 3 mph, and then put the transmission into Neutral. Then pull the transfer case shifter from 4 hi to 4 lo in one move. It should move slightly firmly but freely. Then, put it back in drive and make sure you are still moving. Only drive in a straight line in 4 Lo if you are testing it on a paved surface. If you have Selec-Trac, you can try 4 part time and 4 full time at speeds up to 55 mph. 4 low has the same shift technique as Quadra-Trac II.
Operate the HVAC system and check that you get hot and cold air from both sides of the air vents. Make sure that you can get airflow from all of the vents, defrost, dash, and foot well.
Operate the cruise control. It should hold speed well. If it does not, that is a sign that there is a vacuum leak in the cruise system.
If this WJ has heated seats, test them out!
Roll down all the windows and open/close the sunroof.
The Test Drive/Common Problems
WJ Grand Cherokees are generally pretty reliable vehicles... after all, you wouldn't see them EVERYWHERE when you drive around if they were unreliable or expensive to maintain. But, like any vehicle, they are not without their faults. Here are some common issues to be aware of and some things to look into during your test drive. As with any used car, service history is important. A Pre-Purchase Inspection done by a dealer or a trusted mechanic can prove to be a good investment if you are considering buying one.
Blend Doors
Limited and Overland models (those with the dual-zone/automatic climate controle) have a 100% failure rate on the HVAC Blend Doors. These doors regulate the mix of hot and cold air and ride on thin plastic axles controlled by electronic actuators. The actuators go through a frequent self-test mode that breaks the axles that the doors ride on. While this is extremely common, it is also a very easy and inexpensive fix. There are kits available to replace the defective parts with prices ranging from $80-180. It takes about 2 hours of easy labor and is repaired through the glove box.
In addition, the recirculation door does the same self-test cycle and can break from its axle. In most cases, it just dangles there and you lose the ability to close the cabin off from outside air. In some cases, it drops down and blocks airflow completely.
On your test drive:
Cycle the heater through all of its settings. Be sure that you can get hot and cold air through BOTH sides of the dashboard vents. If you have the chance, run the HVAC diagnostics. When the doors fail, you lose the ability to get hot air through the heater. If you can't get hot air, don't pass on the vehicle if it is otherwise in good condition. This is an easy fix and also an easy way to talk $500 off the price.
Transfer Case
Models with QuadraDrive and Quadra-Trac II require special fluid for the transfer case but unfortunately, ATF+4 is often used instead (as that was the original specification in 1999). The end result is that you might notice some scrubbing sounds or binding from the front tires when you turn sharply (like in a normal parking lot manuever). Changing the fluid to the correct fluid often fixes the issue, but if it is left unresolved for a long time it can damage the transfer case. Repairs can be expensive, but swapping to the NV242 (Selec-Trac) transfer case is a cheaper alternative.
On your test drive:
Do a few sharp turns in a parking lot and see if you notice any scrubbing or hopping from the front wheels. If you have a mechanic do a Pre-Purchase Inspection, have them check the transfer case fluid. If it is red, it is the wrong fluid. It should be honey-colored. The correct fluid is only about $30 for enough to do the job and it is an easy do-it-yourself job. If you can change your oil, you can change the transfer case fluid.
Warped Brake Rotors
Early WJ models (1999-2001, early 2002) had a new dual-piston sliding caliper on the front brakes known as Teves or ATE calipers. The caliper carriers freeze up easily and then cause uneven clamping on the rotor. This usually goes unnoticed by the driver as braking performance does not suffer noticeably... but it does eventually result in warped rotors. Chrysler published a TSB on this and also released an updated brake caliper for late 2002-2004 models called "Akebono" calipers and many earlier models were upgraded to them by the dealer. They had a much stiffer caliper carrier and a design less susceptible to freezing. They do not provide any additional performance increase, just improve reliability. Regardless of what caliper you have, be sure to grease the caliper carrier sliders when you replace the brake pads/rotors.
On your test drive:
Test the brakes. Really *test* them. Find a section of empty road, prepare yourself, and do a good stop from 45-50 mph. If you notice suddering or shaking in the steering wheel, you probably have warped rotors. Visually inspect the brakes. If you have the Teves calipers, either plan on replacing them soon, or pass and look for another WJ.
Tires
One thing to consider with ANY 4WD vehicle: matching tire size is ABSOLUTELY critical. Jeep allows only 3/32" difference in tire size between front and rear. Any more and you risk damage to the transfer case and the possibility of being stuck in 4WD. Even different model tires of the same listed size can vary enough to cause damage. This is also key with your spare tire. If you change tire size, always get a matching spare tire.
On your test drive:
Look at all 4 tires. Look for irregular wear, have different tread depths, and check If any are not matching brands/models or matching sizes, pass on the vehicle. This is indicative of a vehicle that has not been cared for and is likely already damaged to the point that it would need major repairs. One forum member found this out the hard way when his front differential seized up completely on his drive home from the dealer.
Other Common Issues
Other common but relatively minor issues - some people have bad luck with power window regulators and heated seat elements. Taillight sockets can corrode and may just need the tabs bent slightly to make contact again. Axles tend to leak more often than I would like. Tire Pressure Monitoring Sensors have 7-10 year battery life and the batteries are not individually replaceable. If you are looking at a WJ with TPMS, try to find out if the sensors have been replaced. Throttle position sensors can fail and cause erratic response and shifting. Hood, liftgate, and popper glass support struts commonly fail, but again, easy and cheap to fix.
On your test drive:
Treat the WJ as if you were looking at any other used car. Check that everything works!
Despite these faults, the WJ is overall a dependable vehicle. Every used car can have problems. Buying from a private party is going to yield a better indication of what kind of vehicle you are looking at; you will get more information, some indication of service history, and slightly more honest answers than from a car dealer. Buy the best WJ you can, take care of it, and you will not be disappointed.
Test Drive Checklist
The Walk-Around
Check all panel gaps for consistent spacing and that paint colors match. This could be indicative of a vehicle that has had accident damage.
Check for dents, especially around the rocker panels, which could be a sign that the vehicle has been taken off-road.
Crawl underneath and look for dents in the undercarriage. While you are down there, look for rust around the rocker panels, skid plates, oil pan, and transmission oil pan.
Check the undersides of the doors for rust.
Have your seller operate various lights while you observe that they work. Pay special attention to the brake lights as this is common issue.
Look at the brakes through the wheels (especially the front). The upgraded Akebono caliper is on the left, the original Teves caliper on the right. Akebono is desired. Look for excessive rust.
Check that the liftgate glass opens and stays open. If it won't open, it could have a bad actuator or the strut could be rusted frozen .
Likewise, check that that liftgate opens and stays open on its own. Replacing liftgate or popper glass struts is easy but can be a sign of poor care overall.
Under the Hood: Before Driving.
Pop the hood. Does it stay open on its own? If not, it needs new hood struts.
Open the radiator cap. Any sign of oil? Is the coolant green (wrong)? Any signs of stop-leak products? (metal powder or goop)
Check the radiator overflow bottle. It should be midway full and clean.
Pop the oil filler cap. Look for a build up of milky goo (signs of a bad headgasket or cracked head). 4.7L V8s may have a slight build up here which is normal and was addressed with a revised filler tube. Check the oil dipstick to see the level and condition of the oil.
Check for signs of fluid leaks. Radiator hoses will have a build up of white residue, somewhat crystalline. Oil or power steering leaks will always appear wet. If it is at a dealer, chances are the engine bay has been steam-cleaned.
Check the air filter. The airbox is on the right side of the engine bay (US driver's side) and is held together with 4 clips. It should be clean. If its not clean, it is a sign that the seller may not have taken care of the vehicle. There are many brands of paper air filters that are all acceptable. K&N reusable air filters are also popular but offer less filtration than paper.
Pull off the rubber strip that holds on the plastic cowl cover (by the wipers). It just snaps back in place by hand. Look under the cowl cover for a build up of dead leaves and pine needles.
Check the battery terminals. They should be clean and corrosion free.
Check the battery. They should have a date code on the label for when they were installed.
Have your seller start the vehicle. Listen for abnormal rattles or sputtering on start up. Note: an electronic ticking sound from the right side of the engine bay is normal, it is part of the evap system.
On the Road
Drive around!
Listen for odd noises in the suspension. Clunks on bumps or while cornering can indicate worn suspension
Feel for looseness in the steering wheel and sloppy response or imprecise, wandering behavior.
Acceleration and shifts should be smooth, both upshifts and downshifts.
Get up to highway speeds. Roll on and off the throttle and feel for wandering side/side.
Find a parking lot. Make a few sharp turns into parking spaces and feel for scrubbing or hopping from the front axle.
If possible, find a gravel road or parking lot. Do a good stomp on the gas and see if the front tires engage and pull you away (Quadra Trac II and QuadraDrive)
Shift the transfer case. If you have Quadra-Trac II or QuadraDrive, cruise at idle, no more than 3 mph, and then put the transmission into Neutral. Then pull the transfer case shifter from 4 hi to 4 lo in one move. It should move slightly firmly but freely. Then, put it back in drive and make sure you are still moving. Only drive in a straight line in 4 Lo if you are testing it on a paved surface. If you have Selec-Trac, you can try 4 part time and 4 full time at speeds up to 55 mph. 4 low has the same shift technique as Quadra-Trac II.
Operate the HVAC system and check that you get hot and cold air from both sides of the air vents. Make sure that you can get airflow from all of the vents, defrost, dash, and foot well.
Operate the cruise control. It should hold speed well. If it does not, that is a sign that there is a vacuum leak in the cruise system.
If this WJ has heated seats, test them out!
Roll down all the windows and open/close the sunroof.
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