Drilling out snapped allen key head
Discussion
Any advice on how to do this? I need to remove a shock absorber, but noticed that there is a snapped allen key head in the top of the shocker.
I tried to drill it out with a small 3.5mm piece but it's going no where. I'm guessing it's a much harder material than normal. Do I need a specific drill piece?
Thanks in advance.
I tried to drill it out with a small 3.5mm piece but it's going no where. I'm guessing it's a much harder material than normal. Do I need a specific drill piece?
Thanks in advance.
Centre punch and 'easy out'. I guess if it's the head of a hex key then it's not "screwed" in place as such - rather it needs to be pulled "straight up" to get it out? I'd aim for centre punch followed by drilling a v small hole in the top of it, then screwing the tip of a screw into that, then pulling on it. However a screw may not be strong enough, hence the "easy out" suggestion - that would bind onto the edges of the hole you drilled and you may be able to pull that out. However an easy out is designed to 'unscrew' stuff, so it's design is focussed on rotating the thing it's screwed into, rather than biting on enough to be able to pull it - hence the screw idea. Make sure it's not stuck in place - use penetrating fluid (Wd40 not KY!) to free up any rust. I guess you may need to consider heat, but being as it's the top of a shock, that may be a bad idea.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-Grip-Remover-Ex...
is there room to use one of those on it , they work very very well and have never failed me
shop around though , thats the first link i found
is there room to use one of those on it , they work very very well and have never failed me
shop around though , thats the first link i found
Not sure you will have much luck drilling an allen key bit deep enough to get enough purchase with an easy out, always worth a pop I guess. Do you need to resuse the allen key fastener your trying to remove? Might be better with a mini drill or dremmel type tool and grind away until the allen key comes loose and then go for the easy out option once the allen key bit is out of the way.
doogz said:
Has the shock absorber to be re-used, or is it knackered?
Complicated... but yes it has to be re-used. It's pretty much brand new, done 100 miles or so. However there is a knocking noise from the front end, went to re-tighten everything up and noticed this was in there (a friend of a friend put them together). So I want to remove the allen key head so I can re-tighten that shocker up to the top mount. Think that makes sense.... This is why all the ball ends of my keys at work and home are ground off.
Best way is to get it on a pedestal drill, something a bit beefier than a hand drill, atleast then you have more of a chance of getting some kind of depth inside it, obviously it's not going to make it completely easy as allen keys are extremely hard.
All i can say is good luck.
Best way is to get it on a pedestal drill, something a bit beefier than a hand drill, atleast then you have more of a chance of getting some kind of depth inside it, obviously it's not going to make it completely easy as allen keys are extremely hard.
All i can say is good luck.
doogz said:
Did a garage fit this for you? Or did you snap the allen key in there?
A friend of a friend put the springs, top mounts etc on for me (I don't have an impact gun). I then fitted the complete shocker myself, but could only tighten the top nut as far as I could without the shaft from spinning. I can't remember what I did with the other side. It could be the case you don't need to stop the shaft from spinning when tightening it up, as when it spins then it's as tight as it will go. Just need to get the allen key in to remove the nut. Can't remember.
Looking at that it seems a slightly worn or wrong size allen key has been used and it's shifted round the fitting. So it's jammed. Looking at that pic you need to get a chisel and hammer and tap it clockwise so the allen key is lined into the fitting correctly. Then it should come out easier.
As already suggested, cut a slot across the top of the threaded portion so you can hold it still whilst undoing the nut.
The threaded portion is part of the shock absorber so don't cut it off or drill down into it unless you want to buy a new pair. Don't replace them singly both sides should be replaced at the saem time.
The threaded portion is part of the shock absorber so don't cut it off or drill down into it unless you want to buy a new pair. Don't replace them singly both sides should be replaced at the saem time.
Engineer1 said:
My approach would be to cut across the top giving you a slot for a flat head screwdriver, besides looking at that isn't the nut actually doing the holding in place?
Yep, looks like the allen head is only to stop the rod from spinning while the nut is removed. You could hammer in an oversized allen key or use vice grips/monkey grips to hold the rod while you use a ring spanner to remove the nut.
If you give the nut a fast, quick turn it may come by itself.
Christ there's some piss poor advice being dished out on these forums - mole grips on the damper rod FFS! 
A cobalt drill will get through an allen key, but I would try to tap it around with a small punch first to see if you get it to align with the hex in the damper rod, it will probably come out with a magnet-on-a-stick if you can do that.
A cobalt drill will get through an allen key, but I would try to tap it around with a small punch first to see if you get it to align with the hex in the damper rod, it will probably come out with a magnet-on-a-stick if you can do that.
Seems to be a bit of confusion over this.
The threaded portion is part of the shock absorber.
It sticks up through the hole you can see in the black 'cup' in your picture.
The nyloc nut you can see on this threaded portion is how the shock absorber is held onto the car.
The allen socket in the top of it is so you can hold it still whilst fitting or removing the nyloc nut.
If you remove this threaded bit by cutting it off or drilling down into it you will need a new shock absorber.
The threaded portion is part of the shock absorber.
It sticks up through the hole you can see in the black 'cup' in your picture.
The nyloc nut you can see on this threaded portion is how the shock absorber is held onto the car.
The allen socket in the top of it is so you can hold it still whilst fitting or removing the nyloc nut.
If you remove this threaded bit by cutting it off or drilling down into it you will need a new shock absorber.
Edited by paintman on Thursday 5th April 10:09
Use a centre punch to tap the Allen clockwise, might loosen it up enough to pull out with a magnet or even vacuum cleaner.
Otherwise -
Cut a slot in the top, an angle grinder with a 0.8mm slitting blade would do the trick, you may then be able to loosen the Allen using the slot. If not then just hold the spindle using the slot and screwdriver as already suggested.
Otherwise -
Cut a slot in the top, an angle grinder with a 0.8mm slitting blade would do the trick, you may then be able to loosen the Allen using the slot. If not then just hold the spindle using the slot and screwdriver as already suggested.
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