Talk to me about Rover 75s :)
Discussion
Hello everybody.
I've decided I want to buy a Rover 75 as my next hack.
If I had a budget of £1500 what should I be looking at? It looks like I can get something really decent for that money.
Which engine is the best? I wouldn't want diesel, so it's a toss up between the 1.8 and 2.0...
Any other issues I should be aware of?
I've decided I want to buy a Rover 75 as my next hack.
If I had a budget of £1500 what should I be looking at? It looks like I can get something really decent for that money.
Which engine is the best? I wouldn't want diesel, so it's a toss up between the 1.8 and 2.0...
Any other issues I should be aware of?
KardioKate said:
Which engine is the best? I wouldn't want diesel, so it's a toss up between the 1.8 and 2.0...
Well, the 1.8 NA is slow and blows headgaskets, the 1.8T is better but blows headgaskets, the 2.0 is slow, drinks as much as the 2.5 and you can't get parts.So, the answer is the 2.5 or the diesel (or a 1.8T with a new, revised, headgasket).
confused_buyer said:
Well, the 1.8 NA is slow and blows headgaskets, the 1.8T is better but blows headgaskets, the 2.0 is slow, drinks as much as the 2.5 and you can't get parts.
So, the answer is the 2.5 or the diesel (or a 1.8T with a new, revised, headgasket).
The 1.8 would be quite adequate power-wise So, the answer is the 2.5 or the diesel (or a 1.8T with a new, revised, headgasket).
And they don't all go around blowing headgaskets. We've had 1.8k's before in other cars.
Just wondered what the KV6 was like in comparison.
KardioKate said:
The 1.8 would be quite adequate power-wise
And they don't all go around blowing headgaskets. We've had 1.8k's before in other cars.
Just wondered what the KV6 was like in comparison.
The 1.8 is pretty slow - don't compare it with other Rover models using the same engine - the 75 is a *lot* heavier. The 2.5 KV6 is quite a nice engine, there is no point to the 2.0 as it is no more economical than the 2.5 and not a lot faster than the 1.8 which is why they dropped it pretty quickly.And they don't all go around blowing headgaskets. We've had 1.8k's before in other cars.
Just wondered what the KV6 was like in comparison.
The 1.8T isn't a bad compromise.
confused_buyer said:
The 1.8 is pretty slow - don't compare it with other Rover models using the same engine - the 75 is a *lot* heavier. The 2.5 KV6 is quite a nice engine, there is no point to the 2.0 as it is no more economical than the 2.5 and not a lot faster than the 1.8 which is why they dropped it pretty quickly.
The 1.8T isn't a bad compromise.
The 1.8 is fine. Figures are better than what I've just got rid of. I don't need anything that'll do a sub 10s 0-60. I don't thik I'd get a 1.8t for the money I've got to spend.The 1.8T isn't a bad compromise.
KardioKate said:
The 1.8 is fine. Figures are better than what I've just got rid of. I don't need anything that'll do a sub 10s 0-60. I don't thik I'd get a 1.8t for the money I've got to spend.
There's your answer then. The 1.8 feels slow because it lacks torque to counter the weight so you have to work it very hard meaning it feels slower than the figures suggest. Even a MT ZT 190 doesn't feel like it sets the world alight.The 1.8T is more relaxing because it has a bit of mid-range go, you should be able to get a 2.5 for the same money as a 1.8.
The diesel is by far the best which is why they are the ones which hold their money.
confused_buyer said:
There's your answer then. The 1.8 feels slow because it lacks torque to counter the weight so you have to work it very hard meaning it feels slower than the figures suggest. Even a MT ZT 190 doesn't feel like it sets the world alight.
The 1.8T is more relaxing because it has a bit of mid-range go, you should be able to get a 2.5 for the same money as a 1.8.
The diesel is by far the best which is why they are the ones which hold their money.
Right. But what I was really getting at is; what's parts availability like for the 1.8 models? Anything (other than HG, thanks very much!) that I should be aware of? I seem to recall on one model the cambelt is an engine out job? Is that on one of the diesels?The 1.8T is more relaxing because it has a bit of mid-range go, you should be able to get a 2.5 for the same money as a 1.8.
The diesel is by far the best which is why they are the ones which hold their money.
KardioKate said:
Right. But what I was really getting at is; what's parts availability like for the 1.8 models? Anything (other than HG, thanks very much!) that I should be aware of? I seem to recall on one model the cambelt is an engine out job? Is that on one of the diesels?
No cambelt on diesels. The cambelt change on the V6's is a bit of a pain but not engine out. They'll usually do 150k so many people do not bother if the car is going to be run into the ground.1.8 parts are generally available OK.
confused_buyer said:
No cambelt on diesels. The cambelt change on the V6's is a bit of a pain but not engine out. They'll usually do 150k so many people do not bother if the car is going to be run into the ground.
1.8 parts are generally available OK.
Do you happen to know what the cambelt interval on the 1.8 is?1.8 parts are generally available OK.
KardioKate said:
Do you happen to know what the cambelt interval on the 1.8 is?
Rover say six years or 90k miles but that's generally reckoned to be rather optimistic for the I4 K-series. Most specialists seem to recommend 4 years or 60k miles, and some of the OEM users such as Lotus used the four-year figure in their official service schedule. kambites said:
Rover say six years or 90k miles but that's generally reckoned to be rather optimistic for the I4 K-series. Most specialists seem to recommend 4 years or 60k miles, and some of the OEM users such as Lotus used the four-year figure in their official service schedule.
Okie dokies - that's useful thank you Clutch hydraulics can be weak, especially on the 75 diesel models (two friends both had 03 plate models, and this problem cost them £(many hundreds) each to the point they got shut of the cars eventually). It's a sealed system, with the slave cylnder inside the clutch housing so replacement is labour-intensive with removal of the gearbox involved. It might be fine, but if it goes it's often a recurring s*d.
And a tax disc is quite expensive on the 2.5s, especially it it's an Auto
.
And a tax disc is quite expensive on the 2.5s, especially it it's an Auto
.
tty clutch's on the dieselsrehab71 said:
Why why why would you WANT one?
Perhaps they are a pretty good car and arent that expensive ?My Dad has a ZT 190 and my mum a diesel Auto, the ZT 190 is a lot smoother and nice than the diesel but the diesel is ok, bit slow but a manual one with a remap would be a decent mover.
I think at some point people will start to value them a bit more, decent examples as really they were good and the last British made MG/Rover, I know some people treat them as if they are scraping a very fragrant dog turd off their shoes but it is amazing a bit of nostalgia.
There's an excellent buyers guide here Kate plus a club for sale section which is the best place to look for a cherished and sorted example:
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...
www.honestjohn.co.uk has recently uprated the 75/ZT from a 3 star to a 4star used buy due to improved parts supply and club support.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...
www.honestjohn.co.uk has recently uprated the 75/ZT from a 3 star to a 4star used buy due to improved parts supply and club support.
Edited by Roman on Tuesday 15th May 10:01
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