Clutch slip - suspected oil on friction plate - solutions?
Discussion
Or do I have to replace the clutch...
Long story short, the bell hosing cracked on the clutch side and since replacing the box, we have a bit of clutch slip when applying full throttle.
If I can avoid getting that box off again it will be grand, I've heard of spraying brake cleaner on the surface (you can gain access through the crank sensor hole) to remove the grease from the surface but haven't tried it yet.
Anybody had this problem before?
Dan
Long story short, the bell hosing cracked on the clutch side and since replacing the box, we have a bit of clutch slip when applying full throttle.
If I can avoid getting that box off again it will be grand, I've heard of spraying brake cleaner on the surface (you can gain access through the crank sensor hole) to remove the grease from the surface but haven't tried it yet.
Anybody had this problem before?
Dan
Try adjusting the clutch cable first 
; if it's a hydraulic clutch then see if there is anything in the Haynes Book o'Lies about setting it up. Did you change the clutch plate while it was apart? Is there any oil coming out of the bottom of the bell housing now?
Brake cleaner will do the job if necessary, yes, but you'll need a lot. My reply relies on a guess that the clutch only bites at the top of its travel now, but it 'bit' further down its travel before you changed the 'box?
; if it's a hydraulic clutch then see if there is anything in the Haynes Book o'Lies about setting it up. Did you change the clutch plate while it was apart? Is there any oil coming out of the bottom of the bell housing now?Brake cleaner will do the job if necessary, yes, but you'll need a lot. My reply relies on a guess that the clutch only bites at the top of its travel now, but it 'bit' further down its travel before you changed the 'box?
aw51 121565 said:
Try adjusting the clutch cable first ; if it's a hydraulic clutch then see if there is anything in the Haynes Book o'Lies about setting it up. Did you change the clutch plate while it was apart? Is there any oil coming out of the bottom of the bell housing now?
Brake cleaner will do the job if necessary, yes, but you'll need a lot. My reply relies on a guess that the clutch only bites at the top of its travel now, but it 'bit' further down its travel before you changed the 'box?
Hi, the clutch is a self adjusting cable, it cannot be adjusted unfortunately. The gearbox I got the car from had an adjustable cable though, strange eh? ; if it's a hydraulic clutch then see if there is anything in the Haynes Book o'Lies about setting it up. Did you change the clutch plate while it was apart? Is there any oil coming out of the bottom of the bell housing now?Brake cleaner will do the job if necessary, yes, but you'll need a lot. My reply relies on a guess that the clutch only bites at the top of its travel now, but it 'bit' further down its travel before you changed the 'box?
Clutch pedal is still mid travel, bites very sharp but strong.
Previous owner told me it has a paddle clutch, but my mate who helped me do the box says the clutch looked stock
Last night I emptied a can of brake cleaner on the friction plate, through the crank sensor hole as the small gap behind a dust shield. The car seemed a lot better at first but once warm the clutch slipped again.
Hard to understand since it bites great, doesn't judder or slip at all engaging gears. Just when you boot it.
Phoning the local french car specialist now
Hard to understand since it bites great, doesn't judder or slip at all engaging gears. Just when you boot it.
Phoning the local french car specialist now
Once a friction plate is contaminated with oil, you can't remove it. The heat of use and slipping will only make it worse as the oil is embedded into the material. The only answer is to replace the whole clutch and poss reface the flywheel as being cast iron the oil can get into the metal too. EEk!
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